Natural Hair Styling

Hair gels, styling pastes, waxes, creams, pomades, and clays provide firmness and hold to the hair. Their holding power is primarily due to synthetic polymers. These soluble plastics form a thin film on the hair, giving it body and firmness.

Almost all conventional hair styling products use such petroleum-based plastics. However, these have come under criticism because they are released into the environment when the hair is washed, where they are difficult to break down.

Examples of synthetic polymers include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), carbomer, and VP/VA copolymer. They coat the hair like a lacquer. After the volatile components, such as water or alcohol, evaporate, they harden and remain on the hair as a thin film. This film prevents moisture from penetrating the hair and keeps the hairstyle in place. The higher the concentration of synthetic polymers, the stronger the firming effect—and the greater the burden on the environment and the scalp.

Styling products, whether gels, creams, or pastes, often also contain a number of other problematic substances, such as formaldehyde or its release agents (e.g., the preservative DMDM hydantoin), organohalogen compounds, or petroleum-based fats that may be contaminated with aromatic mineral oil hydrocarbons. The most common are liquid microplastics. These synthetic soluble plastics are found in almost all conventional hair styling products.

So far, only a few natural styling alternatives are available. Below, we’ll look at some of them and their possibilities.

Natural Hair Styling: Alternatives to Synthetic Polymers

Natural cosmetics already offer several products for natural hair styling. They typically provide medium hold and do not create a Teflon effect, which is no longer in demand anyway. Such alternatives that give hair strength without synthetic polymers include sorbitol, shellac, xanthan gum, chitosan, sodium polyacrylate, beeswax, or carnauba wax.

In detail:

Sorbitol

Sorbitol (INCI: Sorbitol) is a plant-based sugar compound found in many fruits, such as apples, rowanberries, plums, and cherries. The white, odorless powder has strong moisture-attracting properties and is used in cosmetics as a humectant. Natural Hairstyling often uses it in combination with birch leaf extract.

Sorbitol can achieve a high hold level of 4 when a large amount of natural hairstyling gel is used and the hair is blow-dried. With normal use, a hold level of 3 is typical. If a small amount of gel is combed into long hair, the result is a light hold.

Xanthan Gum

Xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) is a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide. For cosmetic use, it is produced biotechnologically using bacterial cultures and is used as a binding agent, emulsion stabilizer, viscosity regulator, and for natural hair styling. It swells in water, and its resulting gel-like consistency makes it suitable for supporting the hair. As a natural hair styling product, it coats the hair with a relatively elastic film.

Shellac

Shellac (INCI: Shellac) is a secretion produced by female scale insects. The resin mass consists of orange-yellow to brownish flakes. In cosmetics, shellac is used as a film-forming agent and viscosity modifier. As a natural hair styling product, shellac has a stronger holding effect than xanthan gum. It forms a harder layer on the hair and also protects it from moisture penetration.

The combination of shellac and xanthan gum combines elastic and fixing film properties that can be adapted to different styling needs, achieving a comparatively high hold.

Natural hair styling with naturally derived polymers

Chitosan (INCI: Chitosan) is a degradation product of the exoskeletons of beetles and shellfish. It forms a protective film on the skin. In cosmetics, it is used as a natural film-forming agent.

As a bio-based polymer derived from corn, sodium polyitaconate

(INCI: Sodium Polyitaconate) is also a suitable alternative for natural hair styling. The raw material is biocompatible and approved by COSMOS and Naturé for natural cosmetics. It is credited with nearly unlimited performance in styling products bearing the natural cosmetics seal. The bio-polymer provides excellent hold and firming properties and supports the hair even in high humidity. It can replace shellac and is therefore also an alternative for a vegan lifestyle.

Beeswax & Carnauba Wax

Beeswax (INCI: Cera alba) can be used in hair waxes, pastes, creams, or pomades and can replace petroleum-based paraffins. However, beeswax is not suitable for a vegan lifestyle and should only be used in certified organic quality to rule out pesticide residues.

Carnauba wax (INCI: Carnauba) is also suitable for natural hair styling. This hard wax, extracted from the wax scales of the carnauba palm, is primarily used as a film-forming agent and fatty component—for example, in lipsticks—and is particularly well-suited as an oily wax base for thick or dry hair.

Natural hair styling has (so far) its limits

If very high concentrations of shellac or sorbitol are used in formulations, this can result in a very sticky texture and visible adhesive residue in the hair.

In high concentrations, shellac can also flake off and trickle onto the shoulders like dandruff. This drawback, which can also occur with synthetic polymers, can be largely eliminated by combining shellac with xanthan gum.

Natural hair styling does not create indestructible hairstyles, but its advantage lies in the fact that it leaves the hair feeling natural. It also allows for flexible use of the products to achieve gradable results.

Furthermore, unlike many synthetic styling products, natural, plant-based ingredients have a nourishing effect on the scalp and hair.

Natural Hair Styling: A New Perspective

Conventional styling products often use substances that are problematic for the environment. Soluble synthetic plastics, in particular, have come under criticism because they are difficult for the environment to break down. In the search for alternatives, natural cosmetics demonstrate that it is possible to give hair shape and hold using natural substances. So far, the range of products is rather limited and consists mainly of styling gels. However, it shows that modern formulations for shaping and supporting the hair are possible.

Cosmacon sees great potential in natural hair styling and would be happy to advise you. Together, we create effective, modern cosmetics—tailored to your brand values and the needs of your target audience. Contact us!

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