Lipids, fats and emollients
The word lipid comes from the Greek „lipos“meaning fat. In common parlance lipids are known as fats. In the cosmetic business the term emollient is generally used, so all 3 terms (lipids, fats, emollients) are relevant when talking about lipids.
In cosmetic formulations emollients have several meaningful roles to play:
- They help to improve how the product feels on the skin
- They deliver essential substances to the skin
- They reduce moisture loss from the skin
- They protect the skin from damaging environmental factors
- They support natural skin flora
- They provide a solution for UV-filters and other active ingredients
For the cosmetic scientist, it is critical to select the right emollients for products under development. The right emollient choice is key for market success and the successful positive effect of the preparation. Additionally the right lipid will guarantee product stability.
To facilitate the right choice of emollients, we offer the following services:
- Assessment of the spreading-quality
- % solubility of UV-filters and active ingredients
- Sensory profile
The sensory profile allows the developer to have a targeted overview and assessment of the sensory quality of a lipid and the ability to make an informed selection from the available lipid portfolio.
The developer can see a comparative overview of all emollients, and select the right one for the development project in hand. The developer also has the information about the changes in sensory quality when different concentrations are mixed in a formulation (see lipid 11).
Raw material suppliers will be able to identify quickly where there are gaps in their portfolio. Using this information, new lipid mixtures can be acquired or developed in a targeted way to complete the portfolio.
Ideally this sensory map should be produced comparing several attributes or using several different bases such as O/W-, W/O- or a gel preparation.