Zinc PCA in Cosmetics – Effects, Formulation and Regulatory

Quick Answer / Definition

Zinc PCA (INCI: Zinc PCA) is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a natural component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The active ingredient combines the sebum-regulating properties of zinc with the moisture-binding properties of PCA. In cosmetic formulations, zinc PCA is primarily used in products for oily, blemished, or acne-prone skin. Typical concentrations range from 0.1–1.0%.

What is zinc PCA from a chemical perspective?

Zinc PCA is a salt composed of zinc ions (Zn²⁺) and L-pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA).

PCA is a natural component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and acts as a hygroscopic moisture-retaining factor. When combined with zinc, it forms an active ingredient that simultaneously addresses hydration and sebum regulation.

Brief characterization:

What effect does zinc PCA have on the skin?

Zinc PCA has sebum-regulating, antimicrobial, and mild anti-inflammatory properties.

Typical effects in cosmetic formulations: Sebumeter measurements have shown that applying a 1% zinc PCA solution over several weeks can result in a measurable reduction in sebum production.

• Reduction of excessive sebum production
• Support of the skin barrier
• Improvement in skin feel for oily skin
• Antimicrobial effect against skin-relevant microorganisms

Why is zinc PCA particularly beneficial for blemish-prone skin?

Zinc plays an important role in skin metabolism and in the enzymatic processes of the skin barrier.

Cosmetic relevance: This is why zinc PCA is frequently used in acne serums, facial toners, and clarifying skincare products.

• Inhibition of sebum-associated skin processes
• Support of skin microbiome balance
• Improvement of the appearance of oily skin

What antimicrobial properties does zinc PCA possess?

Zinc ions can inhibit the growth of certain microorganisms.

Typical microbiological effects: These properties make zinc PCA particularly interesting for:

• Inhibition of Staphylococcus aureus
• Inhibition of Cutibacterium acnes
• Inhibition of Malassezia furfur

• Acne care
• Scalp care
• Deodorant formulations

In which cosmetic products is zinc PCA used?

The active ingredient is versatile.

Typical applications: Zinc PCA can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products.

• Facial toners for oily skin
• Anti-acne serums
• Mattifying day creams
• Scalp tonics
• Shampoos for oily scalps
• After-sun products
• Makeup formulations

What challenges are there when formulating with zinc PCA?

Zinc ions tend to form insoluble complexes with certain anions. This can lead to cloudiness or precipitation.

Typical formulation issues:

These aspects are crucial in the practical development of cosmetic formulations.

• Complex formation with phosphates
• Reaction with carbonates
• Interactions with chelating agents
• Precipitation with certain polymer structures

1. Adjust pH range to 4.5–6.5
2. Avoid phosphate buffers
3. Check electrolyte stability
4. Test metal ion compatibility
5. Conduct stability testing over 12–24 months

What synergistic combinations with metal-PCA are possible?

Multiple metal ions can be used together to support physiological skin processes.

An example of such a combination is a mixture of:

PHYSIOGENYL® PowderThis combination combines:Such systems are frequently used in skin-physiologically oriented care products.

• Maltodextrin
• Sodium PCA
• Magnesium PCA
• Zinc PCA
• Manganese PCA

• Humectants
• Trace elements
• Enzymatic cofactors

What is the regulatory status of Zinc PCA?

Zinc PCA is permitted for cosmetic use in the European Union.

Regulatory Key Points:

• INCI: Zinc PCA
• CAS Number: 15454-75-8
• No restrictions under Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009
• Safety assessment is conducted for the finished product

As part of the CPSR, the following must be assessed, among other things:

• Exposure
• Purity of the raw material
• Heavy metal content
• Stability of the final formulation

We are pleased to work with these active ingredients containing zinc PCA:

Conclusion: Zinc PCA

To facilitate rapid market entry, Tojo Cosmetics offers EU-compliant white-label products that are already formulated with sebum-regulating active ingredients such as zinc PCA.

For custom product development, Cosactive offers formulation-tested active ingredients and functional blends starting at low usage levels.

During development, pH stability, electrolyte compatibility, and the target product should be taken into account.

Please feel free to contact us regarding custom formulation development.

FAQ

What is Zinc PCA?

Zinc PCA is a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and a component of modern sebum-regulating skincare.

What is the effect of Zinc PCA?

It reduces excess sebum, supports the skin barrier, and possesses antimicrobial properties.

Is Zinc PCA suitable for acne?

Yes, the active ingredient is frequently used in skincare products for oily and acne-prone skin.

Is zinc PCA permitted in the EU?

Yes, the active ingredient is permitted for cosmetic use and is not subject to restrictions.

What concentrations are used?

Typical concentrations range from 0.1% to 1.0%.

Why is zinc PCA difficult to formulate?

Zinc ions can form insoluble complexes with other anions.

Does every product containing zinc PCA require a CPSR?

Yes, every cosmetic formulation requires its own safety assessment.

Literature:

AJIDEW® ZN-100 / Zinc PCA

PubMed references on the dermatological significance of zinc:

• https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17147561/
• https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23493187/
• https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21393982/