vegan Spicules
“Liquid microneedling”—no device, no needles, right in the cream: Spicules are one of the most defining K-Beauty trends. In addition to the classic sponge needles derived from freshwater sponges, vegan, mineral-based spicules are now gaining traction—with a distinctly different profile in terms of sensation, penetration, and sustainability.
What are spicules?
Spicules are microscopically small, needle-like structures that penetrate the outermost layer of the skin when massaged in. They create extremely fine microchannels, have an exfoliating effect, and thus improve the absorption of accompanying active ingredients—a purely physical effect often described as “liquid microneedling.” Traditionally, they come from the freshwater sponge (Spongilla).
The difference: mineral-based, vegan spicules
Instead of animal-derived sponge needles, the new generation uses a mineral structure with the INCI designation Calcium Sodium Borosilicate. Rather than a sharp needle shape, these particles have a shorter micro-rod geometry (“Micro-Rod”). This significantly alters the balance between efficacy and tolerability.
| Characteristic | Sponge spicules (animal-based) | Vegan spicules (mineral-based) |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Freshwater sponge / Marine sponge | Calcium Sodium Borosilicate |
| Shape | Sharp needle | Rounded micro-rod |
| Penetration depth | Down to the dermis | Primarily the upper skin layer (stratum corneum) |
| Irritation potential | Higher | Reduced |
| Vegan | No | Yes |
Effect Profile and Typical Effects
- Gentle physical exfoliation and refinement of skin texture
- Improved absorption of accompanying active ingredients (“booster effect”)
- Visible immediate effect due to the characteristic tingling sensation
- Vegan, non-animal origin—lower risk of irritation
The mineral-based variant is therefore also suitable for formulations that prioritize a lower irritation profile and daily use.
Formulation: What Matters
Typical usage concentrations range from the low to mid single-digit percentage range, depending on the formulation. Key factors include a suitable carrier texture (cream, balm, mask), uniform distribution of the particles, and clear application instructions, as the sensory effect depends heavily on how the product is applied. Ideal combination partners include active ingredients whose penetration needs to be specifically enhanced—such as peptide complexes, PDRN, or moisturizing systems.
Regulatory Classification
As physically active particles, vegan spicules are suitable for cosmetic use; Calcium Sodium Borosilicate is an established mineral raw material. As always, each finished product requires its own safety assessment (CPSR) and a Product Information File (PIF). Claims regarding efficacy must remain within the cosmetic context (texture, smoothness, freshness); medical claims are not permitted.
Frequently Asked Questions About Vegan Spicules
Are vegan spicules the same as microneedling?
No. They produce a similar physical effect in the outermost layer of the skin but do not replace device-based microneedling. This is why they are referred to as “liquid microneedling.”
Why are mineral spicules considered gentler on the skin?
Due to their rounded micro-rod shape and shallower penetration depth (the outermost layer of the skin rather than the dermis), they cause less irritation compared to sharp sponge needles.
What is the INCI name of the active ingredient?
The vegan, mineral spicules are listed as Calcium Sodium Borosilicate.
Which active ingredients can they be combined with?
Ideal active ingredients are those whose absorption needs to be supported—for example, peptides, PDRN, or moisturizing ingredients. The formulation is tailored to the specific product.
Develop your “Liquid Microneedling” product
Would you like to implement a vegan-based spicules concept? Cosmacon develops your custom formulation with mineral spicules and matching booster ingredients—from texture to regulatory compliance.
Looking to enter the market quickly? Tojo Cosmetics offers EU-compliant white-label products featuring modern spicule and active ingredient systems.