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The skin barrier

barrier of the skin

 

The skin barrier: structure, protection, and care

The skin barrier is a highly intelligent system consisting of keratin, lipids, water, and natural moisturizing factors that protects our skin from drying out and keeps it smooth, supple, and healthy.

 

 

The most important building blocks of the skin barrier

  1. Keratin – stability through corneocytes

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, consists mainly of keratin. This structural protein gives dead corneocytes their resistance. These corneocytes form a dense, protective layer that is constantly renewed as old cells are shed and replaced by new ones.

  1. Lipids – the “cement” of the skin

During the keratinization process, lamellar lipid bilayers are formed, which hold the corneocytes together. This lipid matrix consists of:

  • Cholesterol
  • Free fatty acids
  • Ceramides
  • Sphingolipids
  • Phospholipids
  • Triglycerides
  • Squalene

Another important source of fat is sebum, which contains similar components. These lipids are essential for the barrier function and maintenance of skin moisture.

  1. NMF – Natural Moisturizing Factor

During keratinization, natural moisturizing factors are also produced, consisting of:

  • Amino acids
  • Urea
  • Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
  • Lactic acid
  • Sodium lactate
  • Glucosamine

These water-soluble substances bind moisture and maintain the elasticity and suppleness of the skin.

  1. Water – protection through imperceptible loss

Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) is a natural process in healthy skin. During this process, water and metabolic products are slowly released through the epidermis. This fluid contains, among other things:

  • Salts
  • Urea
  • Amino acids
  • Lactic acid
  • Fatty acids
  1. The skin’s own emulsion – the hydrolipid film

The combination of lipids, sweat, and water forms a natural oil-in-water emulsion that:

  • Smoothes the skin’s surface
  • Reduces water evaporation
  • Prevents the penetration of dirt, microorganisms, and chemicals

 

 

Stress on the skin barrier

The skin barrier is challenged every day. Various influences can throw it off balance:

External factors:

  • Dry climate
  • Cold
  • UV radiation

Internal factors:

  • Skin aging (reduced lipid and sebum production)
  • Aggressive cleansing (e.g. with harsh surfactants)

These factors lead to a decrease in moisture retention factors and skin lipids. The result: dryness, tightness, increased flaking, cracks and even inflammation.

 

 

Active ingredients to strengthen the skin barrier

Targeted care can restore and strengthen the barrier function. Here are some proven active ingredients:

 

Trimoist KMF – Multi-complex for immediate hydration

INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Olus Oil (and) others

Description: White, viscous cream gel, water-soluble

Concentration: 1–5%

Effect:

  • Immediate & long-lasting hydration
  • 24-hour moisture
  • Protection of the hydrolipid film
  • Tested on sensitive skin

Mode of action:

Contains plant lipids, moisturizing factors, and film-forming polysaccharides. Skin smoothness, elasticity, and moisture are significantly improved.

 

Baker’s yeast – support from beta-glucans

Key ingredients:

  • Sodium carboxymethyl β-glucan (CM-Glucan Granulate)
  • Magnesium carboxymethyl β-glucan (CM-Glucan Forte)

Properties:

  • Restores the moisture barrier
  • Reduces wrinkles
  • Protection against oxidative stress
  • Improvement of skin regeneration

Concentration: 0.02–0.1%

Form: Powder, water-soluble, alcohol-free

 

Lipobelle Glacier – Glacier water in liposomes

INCI: Lecithin (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua

Trade name: Lipobelle™ Glacier

Concentration: 1–5%

Effect:

  • Strengthens and repairs the skin barrier
  • Refreshing skin feeling
  • 24-hour moisture

Special feature:

The glacier water from the Valais Alps is encapsulated in liposomes, increases the barrier function and provides visible freshness.

 

PolyFructol Plus – chicory root extract for wash products

INCI (oP version): Inulin, glycerin, lecithin, xanthan gum, aqua, etc.

Concentration: 0.1–5%

Properties:

  • Oligosaccharide inulin, extracted from chicory roots
  • Intensive moisture retention (48-hour effect)
  • Also effective in rinse-off products
  • Maintains skin elasticity despite cleansing stress

 

AquaCacteen – prickly pear for sensitive skin

INCI: Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract + Glycerin / Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Concentration: 0.5–2%

Effect:

  • Moisturizing and soothing
  • Ideal for shaving, UV stress, sensitive skin
  • Contains valuable mucilage, minerals, and vitamins

 

 

Conclusion: Strengthens the skin barrier – increases well-being

An intact skin barrier is essential for healthy, beautiful skin. Caring for it requires a combination of moisturizing, lipid-boosting, and protective active ingredients.

Cosmacon GmbH offers comprehensive consulting and develops customized cosmetic products using innovative raw materials such as Trimoist KMF, CM-glucans, and Lipobelle Glacier. These specifically strengthen the skin barrier and contribute to long-lasting skin health – scientifically proven and formulated to be skin-friendly. Contact us!

 

When products are needed quickly:

✨ Our partner Tojo Cosmetics offers innovative, active ingredient-rich private label products – quickly available, high quality and perfect for brands that want to impress with passion and quality.