Ozonated Vegetable Oils in Cosmetics—Mechanism of Action, Benefits, and Innovative Applications

Ozonated Plant Oils—When a Strong Oxidizing Agent Becomes a Smart Active Ingredient

Hardly any other cosmetic active ingredient raises as many questions at first glance as ozonated plant oils. After all, most people associate ozone with air pollution, oxidative stress, or health risks. In fact, gaseous ozone (O₃) in high concentrations is a strong oxidizing agent and can damage biological tissues.

However, it is precisely this first impression that makes the technology so exciting.

This is because, in the production of ozonated vegetable oils, gaseous ozone is not used as the actual active ingredient. Instead, it reacts in a controlled manner with the double bonds of the unsaturated fatty acids in plant oils. Once the reaction is complete, virtually no free ozone remains. Instead, stable ozonides are formed—special oxygen compounds that serve as the oil’s actual functional components. This fundamentally distinguishes a high-quality ozonized oil from gaseous ozone.

It is precisely this controlled chemical transformation that opens up interesting possibilities for modern skincare formulations. In recent years, numerous scientific studies have been published that examine the antimicrobial properties, the support of physiological skin processes, and the influence on oxidative signaling pathways. Today, the focus is less on the direct oxidative effect and more on the ability to trigger cellular regulatory mechanisms and thereby support natural skin function.

What are ozonized vegetable oils?

Vegetable oils consist primarily of triglycerides. The fatty acids they contain differ in terms of the number of double bonds they possess. Sunflower, soybean, and sesame oils, for example, are particularly rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids.

During ozonation, ozone reacts specifically with these double bonds. This chemical process, known for decades, is called the Criegee reaction.

In simplified terms, it proceeds in three steps:

• Attachment of the ozone molecule to the double bond

• Formation of an unstable primary ozonide

• Rearrangement to form a stable secondary ozonide

These stable ozonides then remain in the oil and give it its characteristic properties. The original ozone is completely converted in the process and is no longer present as a gas in the final product.

Why is sunflower oil particularly suitable?

Not every vegetable oil can be ozonized equally effectively.

The key factor is the number of unsaturated fatty acids. The more double bonds present, the more ozonides can form.

Among common vegetable oils, sunflower oil has a particularly high linoleic acid content and therefore possesses exceptionally high ozonization potential. This results in high concentrations of stable ozonides without the oil losing its fundamental skin compatibility.

Quality Matters: The Peroxide Index

Not every ozonated oil automatically has the same quality.

An important quality parameter is the so-called peroxide index (PI). It indirectly describes the amount of ozonides formed and thus the degree of ozonation of the oil.

A high peroxide index means, among other things:

• high concentration of stable ozonides

• better long-term stability

• lower tendency toward uncontrolled oxidation

• reproducible quality

For high-quality cosmetic raw materials, peroxide indices of several thousand mEqO₂/kg are achieved today. At the same time, the peroxide index also indicates how stable the product remains during storage and formulation. Highly ozonized vegetable oils can be stored for long periods and, provided they are of sufficient quality, do not require refrigeration.

Why do positive effects on the skin occur at all?

The real key to this technology is that the ozonides do not remain highly reactive oxidizing agents permanently.

Only upon contact with skin lipids and the skin’s moisture do they slowly react. In the process, various reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid oxidation products (LOPS) are produced in controlled amounts.

While high levels of free radicals would be harmful, small, controlled amounts can act as biological signaling molecules. This phenomenon is also known as hormesis—a stimulus is small enough not to cause damage but strong enough to activate the body’s own protective mechanisms.

It is precisely this principle that makes high-quality ozonized vegetable oils so interesting for cosmetic applications.

The Mechanism of Action—Why Controlled Oxidative Stress Can Help the Skin

The term “oxidative stress” usually carries negative connotations in cosmetics. After all, free radicals are considered to be a contributing factor to skin aging, DNA damage, and inflammatory processes. However, modern research shows that this view is too simplistic.

Today we know that small amounts of reactive oxygen species (ROS) are important endogenous signaling molecules. Without them, numerous repair and regeneration processes could not be activated at all.

High-quality ozonized vegetable oils utilize precisely this principle.

From Oxidation to Cell Communication

When ozonides come into contact with the skin, they slowly react with water and lipids on the skin’s surface. This process produces controlled amounts of various oxidative signaling molecules:

• Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)

• Lipid Oxidation Products (LOPS)

• Small amounts of hydrogen peroxide

• Other natural lipid oxidation products

These substances do not remain in the tissue for long but act primarily as biological messengers. They trigger a short-term activation of various cellular defense systems without maintaining chronic oxidative stress. What is crucial, therefore, is not the extent of oxidation but its controlled dosage.

ROS – the Short-Term Activation Impulse

The ROS initially formed activate the NF-κB (Nuclear Factor kappa B) signaling pathway in skin cells.

This signaling pathway controls numerous processes that are important for physiological tissue regeneration. These include, among others:

• Formation of various growth factors

• Cell proliferation

• Communication between immune and skin cells

• Regulation of inflammatory processes

It is important to note that short-term activation of NF-κB does not necessarily mean harmful inflammation. Rather, it is a natural component of the physiological tissue response following a controlled stimulus.

LOPS Activate the Body’s Own Cell Protection

Even more interesting is the second signaling pathway.

While ROS have only a relatively short-lived effect, so-called lipid oxidation products (LOPS) are also formed.

These molecules activate the transcription factor Nrf2, which is now considered one of the body’s most important regulators of antioxidant defense mechanisms.

Upon activation, Nrf2 migrates to the cell nucleus, where it stimulates the production of various antioxidant enzymes:

• Superoxide dismutase (SOD)

• Catalase (CAT)

• Glutathione peroxidase (GPX)

• Hem oxygenase-1 (HO-1)

As a result, the oxidative stimulus that was previously triggered is immediately brought back under control. The skin thus does not respond with sustained oxidation, but rather with an enhanced endogenous antioxidant response. This is precisely one of the most exciting aspects of this technology.

Two signaling pathways—one common goal

In simple terms, the mechanism can be imagined as an intelligent alarm system.

The initial stimulus briefly activates cellular alertness.

Immediately afterward, the skin initiates its own protective programs.

The interaction between NF-κB and Nrf2 leads, among other things, to:

• increased production of antioxidant enzymes

• physiological regulation of inflammatory processes

• the release of various growth factors

• improved cellular homeostasis

The scientific literature describes this mechanism as a controlled biological response to a mild oxidative stimulus. The goal is not to induce oxidative stress, but to activate the body’s own regulatory mechanisms.

Which signaling molecules are activated?

Scientific studies have described the following signaling molecules, among others:

Growth factors

• Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF)

• Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF)

• Platelet-Derived Growth Factor (PDGF)

• Insulin-like Growth Factor (IGF)

• Transforming Growth Factor β (TGF-β)

Antioxidant enzymes

• Superoxide dismutase

• Catalase

• Glutathione peroxidase

Immunoregulatory cytokines

• IL-1

• IL-6

• IL-8

• IL-10

• TNF

• Interferons

These are the body’s own signaling molecules, the production of which is described as part of the physiological cellular response. However, this should not automatically lead to claims of cosmetic efficacy or medical healing promises.

Why does ozone suddenly have a positive effect?

Many formulators ask themselves this question when they first encounter ozonized plant oils.

The key difference is that it is not gaseous ozone that comes into contact with the skin.

The ozone has already been completely chemically converted during the manufacturing process. The final product consists primarily of stable ozonides, which release their stored energy only gradually.

To put it simply:

Gaseous ozone acts as a very aggressive oxidizing agent in the short term.

Ozonated vegetable oils, on the other hand, function more like a slow-acting biological signaling system.

It is precisely this controlled release that makes high-quality ozonated vegetable oils interesting for cosmetic applications and explains why, despite their initially unusual name, they are gaining increasing attention in modern skincare concepts.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Ozonized Vegetable Oils in Cosmetics

Like any innovative active ingredient technology, ozonized vegetable oils have clear strengths but also limitations that formulators should be aware of. When used correctly, they can meaningfully expand the active ingredient portfolio of modern skincare.

Advantages of Ozonized Vegetable Oils

1. Multifunctional Mode of Action

While many cosmetic active ingredients address only a single biological effect, ozonized plant oils combine several modes of action simultaneously. The controlled formation of ROS and LOPS can activate physiological signaling pathways, while the underlying plant oil simultaneously nourishes the skin barrier. As a result, they combine skincare properties with an interesting biological mechanism of action.

2. Support for the skin’s natural balance

Rather than acting solely as antioxidants, high-quality ozonized vegetable oils stimulate the body’s own antioxidant defense mechanisms. This supports the skin’s natural homeostasis—an approach that differs significantly from that of traditional antioxidants.

3. Beneficial for Blemished Skin

The scientific literature describes the antimicrobial properties of high-quality ozonized oils against various microorganisms. For cosmetic applications, this opens up potential for products designed for blemished skin or skin prone to blemishes. Of course, only cosmetically permissible claims may be used in this context.

4. Good Formulability

Ozonized vegetable oils can be integrated into numerous galenic systems:

• O/W emulsions

• W/O emulsions

• Oleogels

• Hydrogels

• Balms

• Ointment-like formulations

• Massage oils

• Anhydrous skincare products

This makes them suitable for both traditional skincare and specialized skincare regimens.

5. High Stability of High-Quality Formulations

A sufficiently high peroxide index ensures significantly better storage stability than is often assumed. Modern manufacturing processes achieve stable ozonide structures that remain intact even over extended storage periods.

Possible Disadvantages

An objective assessment is also part of a technical article.

Characteristic Odor

Probably the biggest disadvantage is the typical ozone-like or slightly pungent odor. This can vary in intensity depending on the degree of ozonization and often must be addressed through appropriate fragrance addition or a skillful formulation strategy. This certain degree of natural rancidity must be accepted.

Higher Raw Material Costs

The production of high-quality ozonized vegetable oils is technically demanding and time-consuming. Accordingly, raw material prices are usually significantly higher than those of conventional vegetable oils.

Not a “Miracle Cure”

Although numerous scientific studies describe interesting biological mechanisms, these remain cosmetic raw materials. Claims regarding the treatment or cure of diseases are, of course, not permitted in cosmetic products.

Formulation Expertise Required

A high peroxide value alone does not guarantee a good final product. Emulsifier systems, antioxidants, packaging, and pH level should be carefully balanced to achieve optimal stability and sensory quality.

Suitable Applications in Cosmetics

Due to their unique mechanism of action, ozonized vegetable oils are particularly well-suited for innovative skincare concepts.

Possible product ideas include, for example:

Barrier Repair Serum

A lightweight night serum to support a stressed skin barrier, combined with ceramides, ectoine, and panthenol.

Calming Repair Cream

A soothing face cream for sensitive skin with beta-glucan, oat extract, bisabolol, and ozonized sunflower oil.

SOS Skin Balm

A water-free skin balm for particularly stressed areas of the skin on the hands, elbows, or feet.

After-Sun Recovery Gel-Cream

Combines ozonized plant oils with ectoine, aloe vera, betaine, and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid to care for sun-stressed skin.

Purifying Face Oil

A modern facial oil for blemish-prone or oily skin, formulated with squalane, jojoba oil, and bakuchiol.

Lip Repair Balm

A regenerating lip balm with shea butter, phytosterols, and ozonized sunflower oil for dry and stressed lips.

Conclusion

The term “ozone” often initially triggers skepticism. Upon closer examination, however, it becomes clear that high-quality ozonized plant oils have nothing in common with the direct application of gaseous ozone.

The controlled reaction of ozone with unsaturated vegetable oils produces stable ozonides that can trigger controlled biological signaling processes upon contact with the skin. The activation of the NF-κB and Nrf2 signaling pathways, as well as the subsequent stimulation of antioxidant defense mechanisms, make this technology an exciting approach for modern cosmetic formulations.

Of particular interest is the paradigm shift: rather than solely combating free radicals, this technology uses a mild oxidative stimulus to activate the skin’s own protective and regulatory mechanisms. This hormetic approach is also gaining increasing importance in other areas of dermatology and cosmetics.

High-quality ozonized vegetable oils therefore offer an interesting addition to innovative skincare concepts—provided they are used in suitable formulations and their potential and limitations are evaluated on a scientifically sound basis.

Would you like to develop an innovative skincare product with ozonized vegetable oils?

Developing modern cosmetic products requires far more than simply selecting an interesting active ingredient. Only the optimal combination of active ingredient technology, galenics, stability, sensory properties, and regulatory compliance determines future market success.

Cosmacon supports you from the initial product idea through to a market-ready formulation. Whether it’s custom formulation development, an efficacy concept, stability testing, or full product approval—we guide your project with more than 25 years of experience in cosmetic product development.

Would you rather start directly with a finished product? Then Tojo Cosmetics offers a wide selection of innovative private-label skincare products that can be customized to your brand. Many formulations can be produced even in small quantities and, upon request, further developed with modern active ingredients such as ozonated vegetable oils.

References

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https://doi.org/10.1155/2010/610418

2. Bocci V. Ozone: A New Medical Drug. Springer, 2014.

3. Zanardi I et al. Ozone: A multifaceted molecule with unexpected therapeutic activity. Current Medicinal Chemistry. 2016.

4. Martínez-Sánchez G. Scientific Rationale for the Medical Application of Ozonated Oils. Ozone Therapy Global Journal. 2021.

5. Criegee R. Mechanism of Ozonolysis. Angewandte Chemie International Edition. 1975.

6. Skalska K. et al. Germicidal Properties of Ozonated Sunflower Oil. Ozone: Science & Engineering. 2009.

7. Anzolin AP et al. Ozonated oil in wound healing: what has already been proven? Medical Gas Research. 2020.

8. Sivandzade F. et al. NRF2 and NF-κB interplay in cerebrovascular and neurodegenerative disorders. Redox Biology. 2019.

9. Ahmed SMU et al. The Nrf2 signaling pathway: pivotal roles in inflammation. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta. 2017.

10. Saha S. et al. An overview of the Nrf2 signaling pathway and its role in inflammation. Molecules. 2020.