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Hyaluronic Acid Formulations

The INCI name does not indicate which molecular weights are used in hyaluronic acid formulations. Both high-molecular-weight and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid are listed simply as “Hyaluronic Acid” or “Sodium Hyaluronate.”

However, molecular weight makes a decisive difference in terms of effectiveness.

  • High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid remains primarily on the skin’s surface and provides immediate, intense, but relatively short-term hydration.
  • Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can penetrate deeper into the epidermis and store moisture there for a longer period.

Very small hyaluronic acid fragments—so-called oligosaccharides weighing about 3 kDa—can even reach the basal cell layer or the upper dermis.

 

Different molecular sizes—different effects

Thanks to its numerous hydroxyl groups, hyaluronic acid can bind 1,000 to 6,000 times its own weight in water. This is why it is one of the most important moisturizing agents in modern cosmetics.

While high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid smooths the skin’s surface and reduces transepidermal water loss, low-molecular-weight fragments support the skin’s structure from within.

They promote:

  • cell proliferation,
  • cell renewal,
  • collagen formation,
  • elastin synthesis,
  • skin firmness, and
  • a plumping anti-aging effect.

As a result, hyaluronic acid formulations are suitable not only for mature skin but also for thin, dry, or cortisone-damaged skin, as well as for supporting wound healing.

 

Are hyaluronic acid formulations skin-friendly?

Low-molecular-weight fragments are produced through the controlled enzymatic breakdown of hyaluronic acid using hyaluronidases.

They offer several advantages over high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid:

  • lower viscosity,
  • better skin penetration,
  • higher biological activity,
  • promotion of wound healing,
  • and stronger antioxidant properties.

They are produced cost-effectively using bacterial hyaluronate lyases. The resulting uronides are ideal as antioxidant and regeneration-promoting ingredients in modern skincare products.

 

Scientifically Confirmed Tolerability

The safety of hyaluronic acid and its fragments has been tested in numerous studies.

  • In cell culture models using human keratinocytes, neither a reduction in cell count nor an impairment of the cell cycle was observed. Only short-term changes in DNA synthesis were observed, which returned to normal within a short period of time.
  • In the internationally recognized HET-CAM test—an established alternative to animal testing—neither membrane changes nor bleeding were detected.
  • Clinical studies using a 2% formulation of the smallest hyaluronic acid fragment also confirmed its excellent skin tolerability. No skin redness occurred, and at the same time, hydration of the stratum corneum increased significantly after just a few days.

Thus, hyaluronic acid formulations containing both high- and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid are considered to be very well tolerated.

For high-quality cosmetics, only hyaluronic acid produced biotechnologically via fermentation is recommended.

 

Hyaluronic Acid in Modern Emulsions

Combining different molecular weights brings together the advantages of all types of hyaluronic acid. High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid provides intensive surface hydration, while smaller fragments reach deeper skin layers.

In emulsions, hyaluronic acid can be excellently combined with other moisturizers and barrier lipids, such as:

  • urea,
  • glycerin,
  • lactic acid,
  • tocopheryl acetate,
  • shea butter,
  • jojoba oil,
  • squalane.

This results in synergistic skincare effects and a pleasant sensation on the skin.

 

DMS Basics – Ideal for Sensitive Skin

Derma-Membrane-Structure (DMS) formulations are particularly recommended.

Unlike traditional emulsions, their lipid structures are modeled after the natural composition of the stratum corneum.

Typical ingredients include:

  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,
  • Squalane,
  • Ceramides,
  • Phytosterols,
  • phospholipids.

These lamellar structures support the regeneration of the skin barrier and improve the absorption of hyaluronic acid fragments.

DMS systems are particularly suitable for:

  • dry skin,
  • sensitive skin,
  • barrier dysfunction,
  • atopic dermatitis,
  • redness,
  • itching.

 

What concentrations are recommended?

Even concentrations as low as about 0.1% form a moisturizing protective film on the skin.

At concentrations of about 1% or higher, a typical hyaluronic acid gel forms. High-quality hyaluronic acid serums often contain around 1% pure hyaluronic acid.

Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid is typically used in concentrations between 0.1% and 3%.

For optimal sensory properties, the proportion of low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid should be higher than that of high-molecular-weight forms. This helps avoid sticky formulations while achieving intense, long-lasting effects.

 

Are hyaluronic acid formulations natural?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid produced biotechnologically through fermentation is vegan, suitable for natural cosmetics, and meets the requirements of modern, sustainable cosmetics.

At Cosmacon, we use only high-purity, biotechnologically produced hyaluronic acid and specifically combine different molecular weights to develop high-performance yet pleasant-to-use skincare products.

 

Conclusion

Hyaluronic acid formulations only achieve their full effectiveness through the combination of different molecular weights.

While high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid intensively hydrates and smooths the skin’s surface, low-molecular-weight fragments provide long-lasting moisture, support skin regeneration, and promote collagen formation.

Combined with modern DMS principles and high-quality active ingredients, this results in innovative formulations that meet the highest standards for efficacy, skin tolerance, and sensory properties.

 

Cosmacon is happy to support you in developing customized hyaluronic acid formulations for premium skincare, anti-aging products, and modern natural cosmetics. Contact us!

 

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