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Fermentation products

Fermentation products in cosmetics

Prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics, and other fermentation products are not only considered valuable in nutrition—they have also attracted the interest of the cosmetics industry.

What exactly does this mean?

Prebiotics are indigestible fibers that serve as food for probiotic microorganisms. Examples include inulin, fructose, and galacto-oligosaccharides, which are found in foods such as chicory, onions, garlic, artichokes, bananas, apples, and whole grain products.

Probiotics are living microorganisms (e.g., certain Lactobacillus or Bifidus bacteria) that metabolize prebiotics in the intestine into organic acids (such as butyric acid or acetic acid) and antimicrobial peptides. In the intestine, they support the immune system, promote healthy intestinal flora, and regenerate intestinal cells.

If probiotics have sufficient nutrients, so-called postbiotics are produced in the metabolism. These metabolic products are formed by the bacteria through fermentation – they are small enough to penetrate cells and take effect there.

 

 

Fermentation products for the skin microbiome

Prebiotics such as inulin or oligosaccharides can be easily integrated into cosmetic formulations and provide the skin with valuable nutrients.

Probiotics, on the other hand, are difficult to use in cosmetics due to their liveliness:

  • The natural skin flora would probably repel foreign microorganisms.
  • Living cultures would die in preserved formulations.
  • Bacterial spores could theoretically be introduced into oily formulations, but so far there is no reliable data that they actively grow on the skin.

To harness the benefits of probiotic cultures such as lactobacilli for the skin without using living microorganisms, postbiotic fermentation products offer a smart solution:

They contain the metabolic end products of probiotic cultures – in some cases also lysed or fragmented bacterial residues – and create a microbiome-friendly environment on the skin without displacing the skin’s own flora. Postbiotic ferments therefore also have prebiotic properties.

Note: Some cosmetic products are incorrectly advertised as “probiotic” even though they do not contain any living cultures according to the INCI.

 

 

Postbiotic fermentation: an intelligent solution

Almost all plant-based raw materials can be fermented by bacteria. A classic example of this is sourdough: as soon as ground grain comes into contact with water, yeasts and lactic acid bacteria begin to ferment the starch. Observations by bakers showed that their skin was often healthy and resilient – an indication that fermented substances could have positive effects on skin health.

Studies with certain Lactobacillus species showed that they could alleviate atopic dermatitis when ingested – suggesting that fermentation products applied to the skin could have an even more direct effect.

An example of a postbiotic fermentation product used in cosmetics comes from Rahn:

A computer-controlled fermentation process transforms golden millet (Panicum miliaceum) together with a long-established bacterial community into a postbiotic extract. After pasteurization and filtration, the fermentation product is obtained.

 

 

Defensil Pure® – a postbiotic skin care ferment

INCI:

Water (and) Panicum Miliaceum (Millet) Seed Extract (and) Lactobacillus Ferment (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate

The water-based fermentation product has ideal properties for the care of dry and very dry skin. It:

  • strengthens the skin barrier
  • suppresses inflammatory processes
  • supports healthy skin flora
  • is also suitable for atopic skin

Mode of action:

In vitro, the ferment was shown to promote beneficial skin bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis while inhibiting the growth of potentially undesirable microorganisms such as Staphylococcus aureus—an indication of a prebiotic effect.

Clinical results:

  • Significant increase in skin moisture (up to +140% for very dry skin)
  • Reduction in dry skin irregularities after 14 days
  • Significantly clearer and smoother skin after 8 weeks

Fermentation also led to improved release of minerals such as calcium and magnesium from golden millet.

 

 

Postbiotic fermentation products for sensitive skin

Postbiotic ferments are particularly suitable for sensitive, dry, or inflammation-prone skin. In creams, balms, or serums, they strengthen the skin microbiome by providing the skin with fermented nutrients and signaling molecules—without using live microorganisms.

 

 

The opportunity of fermentation products

Cosmacon sees great potential for postbiotic fermentation products in cosmetic skin care – especially for dry, sensitive skin in need of repair. Since no living microorganisms are used, clear labeling as a postbiotic fermentation product is possible, while at the same time achieving skin-friendly, functional effects. Contact us!

 

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