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Oncological skin care

Pink awareness ribbon and stethoscope on blue background

Oncological skin care supports both the body and the mind, because cancer and its treatment not only take a toll on the body but often on the skin as well.

It addresses the skin’s specific needs before, during, and after cancer treatment, helps rebuild the damaged skin barrier, and supports its regeneration. In addition, makeup can help restore contour and expression to the face, for example, by visually recreating missing eyebrows.

 

What skin problems can occur during cancer treatment?

All cancer treatments have in common that they fight tumor cells but can also affect healthy cells in the process.

Chemotherapy

Chemotherapy targets rapidly dividing cells and, as a result, affects not only tumor cells but also skin, mucous membrane, and hair follicle cells.

Typical consequences include:

  • dry and tight skin,
  • itching,
  • redness,
  • flaking,
  • increased susceptibility to infection,
  • photosensitivity,
  • painful skin areas, and
  • hair loss.

A damaged skin barrier is usually at the heart of these issues.

Radiation Therapy

Radiation therapy primarily causes local skin reactions in the irradiated area.

Typical symptoms include:

  • redness,
  • inflammation,
  • burning,
  • dryness,
  • itching, and
  • localized hair loss.

Immunotherapy

Dry skin, rashes, itching, or hair loss may also occur during immunotherapy.

After Surgery

Following surgical procedures, the focus is on wound healing and targeted scar care.

 

Requirements for Oncological Skin Care

Products for oncological skin care must be formulated to be particularly gentle and must neither irritate nor place additional strain on sensitive skin.

Key considerations include:

  • textures that spread easily,
  • as few ingredients as possible,
  • skin-soothing and regenerating active ingredients,
  • and a consistent avoidance of potentially irritating substances.

Whenever possible, formulations should be free of:

  • fragrances and dyes,
  • essential oils,
  • alcohol,
  • PEGs,
  • mineral oils,
  • parabens,
  • fruit acids,
  • retinol,
  • harsh anti-acne ingredients,
  • problematic preservatives.

These ingredients can put additional strain on the already damaged skin barrier or further dry out the skin.

 

Gentle Cleansing and Sun Protection

Cleansing should be done exclusively with mild, soap-free products, such as those containing polyglycerol surfactants or moisturizing shower oils.

For the face, lukewarm water or a mild, moisturizing facial toner or thermal water is often sufficient to minimize disruption to the skin’s natural lipid and moisture barrier.

During and immediately after cancer treatment, intense sun exposure should be avoided as much as possible. If this is not possible, a high SPF sunscreen is recommended for skin that is particularly sensitive to light. Mineral UV filters, particularly zinc oxide, are considered a well-tolerated option.

Exfoliation should only be performed after consulting with an oncology esthetician or the treating medical team. Particularly gentle enzyme peels can help alleviate feelings of tightness and dry skin.

 

Suitable Skincare Products

Skincare oils, serums, or Derma-Membrane-Structure (DMS) formulations that spread easily—and do not contain traditional emulsifiers while supporting the skin barrier—are particularly pleasant to use.

The scalp also requires intensive care following treatment-related hair loss to alleviate dryness, tightness, and itching.

Products for sensitive skin with the shortest possible INCI list are often particularly well-suited.

If so-called “oncology acne” develops, self-treatment should be avoided. An individual consultation with the treating medical team or a specialized oncology esthetician is recommended.

 

Suitable active ingredients for oncology skincare

Suitable active ingredients are characterized by skin-soothing, moisturizing, and regenerating properties without unnecessarily irritating the skin.

The following have proven particularly effective:

Panthenol

Panthenol (provitamin B5) has moisturizing, skin-soothing, and anti-inflammatory effects and supports the regeneration of the skin barrier.

Glycerin

Glycerin binds water and improves skin hydration. In appropriate concentrations, it helps stabilize the skin’s moisture balance.

Urea

Urea is a component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), reduces dryness, and supports skin regeneration.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid stores large amounts of water, strengthens the skin barrier, supports wound healing, and also has anti-inflammatory properties.

Phospholipids and Lecithin

Phospholipids correspond to the natural lipids of the skin barrier and promote its regeneration. Lecithin additionally improves skin hydration and has a moisturizing effect.

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic acid is a component of ceramide metabolism and supports the reconstruction of the skin barrier. At the same time, it reduces moisture loss and soothes irritation.

Squalane

Squalane is a lipid similar to those found in the skin and is very well tolerated. It nourishes dry and cracked skin, improves the spreadability of formulations, and relieves feelings of tightness and itching.

Plant-Based Oils

Argan oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, pomegranate oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, and soybean oil strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier and support its regeneration.

Calendula and Bisabolol

Both active ingredients have a soothing, anti-irritant effect and support the regeneration of sensitive skin.

Aloe vera

Aloe vera provides valuable mucopolysaccharides, amino acids, and minerals. It improves skin hydration, has anti-inflammatory properties, and supports the regeneration of irritated skin.

Peptides

Selected peptides can also be beneficial. One example is Acetyl Hexapeptide-49, which strengthens the skin’s natural barrier and can reduce itching.

The active ingredients listed are suitable for both facial and body care, as well as for the sensitive scalp following therapy-related hair loss.

 

Conclusion

Oncological skincare is much more than just the selection of individual active ingredients. A holistic skincare approach that takes into account the skin’s individual needs during and after cancer treatment is crucial.

Since every treatment course is different and every skin type reacts differently, the recommendations described here can serve only as a general guide. Those affected should always coordinate their skincare routine with their treating medical team or a qualified oncology esthetician.

 

Cosmacon is happy to support you in developing high-quality formulations for oncology skincare—with a special focus on skin tolerance, barrier protection, and regeneration. Contact us!

 

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