Twelve characteristics of ageing: fundamentals, actives, innovations
Why do we age? And above all, what happens at the cellular level?
Science has created a systematic framework with twelve characteristics of ageing to better understand the processes behind ageing. These findings provide valuable starting points for modern cosmetics to slow down skin ageing and have a visible positive effect.
Below, we present the 12 hallmarks of ageing, explain their effects on the skin and highlight suitable active ingredients and product ideas.
1. Genomic instability
Our genetic material is constantly exposed to attacks from UV rays, environmental toxins and free radicals. DNA damage accelerates the ageing process.
Cosmetic active ingredients: antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, resveratrol), DNA repair enzymes.
Product idea: serum with high doses of vitamin C and resveratrol for daily use.
2. Telomere wear
Telomeres shorten with each cell division. If they are too short, the cell can no longer divide.
Cosmetic ingredients: peptides, niacinamide, plant extracts such as astragalus (TA-65).
Product idea: anti-ageing cream with niacinamide and peptide complex to support cell regeneration.
3. Epigenetic changes
Genes can be switched on or off by environmental factors without changing the DNA sequence.
Cosmetic active ingredients: retinol (influences gene expression), polyphenols, sirtuin activators.
Product idea: night cream with retinol and grape seed extract.
4. Loss of proteostasis
With age, proteins lose their correct folding, resulting in malfunctions.
Cosmetic active ingredients: autophagy-stimulating substances (e.g. spermidine), Q10, polyphenols.
Product idea: day cream with Q10 and spermidine to promote protein stability.
5. Impaired macroautophagy
Autophagy is the ‘recycling process’ of cells. It declines with age.
Cosmetic active ingredients: green tea polyphenols, spermidine, fasting mimetics.
Product idea: intensive serum with EGCG from green tea to activate cellular self-cleaning.
6. Deregulated nutrient signalling
Disrupted signalling pathways (mTOR, AMPK, IGF-1) accelerate ageing.
Cosmetic active ingredients: Metformin-like plant substances, resveratrol, AMPK activators.
Product idea: ‘Longevity serum’ with resveratrol and quercetin.
7. Mitochondrial dysfunction
The powerhouses of the cell lose their efficiency over time. NAD+ levels drop and oxidative stress increases.
Cosmetic active ingredients: NAD+ precursors (NMN, NR), Q10, carnitine.
Product idea: Energy booster cream with Q10 and niacinamide.
8. Cellular senescence
Cells stop dividing and instead produce pro-inflammatory substances that contribute to ageing.
Cosmetic active ingredients: senolytic-like plant extracts (quercetin, fisetin), peptides.
Product idea: anti-ageing serum with fisetin and copper peptides.
9. Stem cell exhaustion
With increasing age, the ability to regenerate tissue decreases.
Cosmetic active ingredients: growth factors, stem cell extracts (e.g. from apples or edelweiss) and peptides.
Product idea: luxury serum with plant stem cell extracts for intensive skin regeneration.
10. Altered intercellular communication
With age, malfunctions occur in the transmission of signals between cells and hormones.
Cosmetic ingredients: probiotics, prebiotics, adaptogenic plant substances.
Product idea: microbiome-strengthening day care with prebiotics.
11. Chronic inflammation
The term ‘inflammaging’ refers to permanent, subliminal inflammation that accelerates ageing.
Cosmetic active ingredients: omega-3 fatty acids, curcumin, bisabolol, CBD.
Product idea: soothing serum with CBD and bisabolol for sensitive skin.
12. Dysbiosis
The microbiome of the gut – but also that of the skin – changes and harmful germs gain the upper hand.
Cosmetic active ingredients: probiotic ferments, prebiotics and postbiotic metabolites.
Product idea: microbiome repair cream with lactobacillus ferment and oat extract.
Conclusion: the twelve characteristics of ageing as a driver of innovation in cosmetics
The twelve characteristics of ageing open up exciting perspectives for skin care. Each of these mechanisms can be specifically addressed with active ingredients. This gives rise to new product ideas that go beyond classic anti-ageing cosmetics and enable genuine ‘longevity skin care’.
Cosmacon develops tailor-made formulations for you that take into account the twelve characteristics of ageing and use state-of-the-art active ingredients.
With Tojo Cosmetics, you receive immediately available private label products that strengthen your brand with innovative anti-ageing concepts.
Contact us – and let’s shape the future of skin care together with your brand!
Literature:
MBDE2501_online.pdf, Beauty Forum 01/2025, pp. 52–56