Tormentic acid
Nature provides us with the most valuable treasures. This also applies to tormentic acid, a natural substance with remarkable properties that is found in many plants. Chemically speaking, tormentic acid is a compound classified as a pentacyclic triterpene. It is said to have anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties and can also have hepatoprotective (liver-protecting), anti-allodynic (against allodynia/increased sensitivity to pain) and anti-atherogenic (against the development of atherosclerosis) effects, among others. It is also gaining attention in the cosmetics industry.
Extraction and occurrence of tormentic acid
Tormentic acid is usually isolated from the two plants Luehea divaricata and Agrimonia eupatoria. The Luehea genus comprises around 20 species and is found in the tropical and subtropical regions of Central and South America. In traditional Brazilian medicine, Luehea divaricata in particular has long been considered a medicinal plant.
Several parts of the tree are used: the leaves serve as a diuretic, the stems can help against inflammation, and a bark decoction is used to treat arthritis. Agrimonia eupatoria is also known as common agrimony and serves as an important food source for the caterpillars of the moth Endotricha flammealis. This perennial, herbaceous and deciduous plant has played an important role in folk medicine since the time of Pliny the Elder (23/24 AD – 79 AD), author of the encyclopaedia Naturalis Historia.
It was said to ward off ‘witchcraft’ and heal wounds caused by muskets. If someone places a small branch of the plant under their head, they are said to sleep until the branch is removed. Both plants – Luehea divaricata and Agrimonia eupatoria – contain significant amounts of tormentic acid. However, these are not the only botanical representatives that contain tormentic acid. Other well-known examples are small meadow knapweed and, above all, blackberries. Tormentic acid is also found in the leaves of Eriobotrya japonica, the Japanese medlar.
What does tormentic acid do?
The effects of tormentic acid are particularly impressive when seen in the example of the plant-based active ingredient Rootness Mood+. It contains a high proportion of tormentic acid and mimics the effect of sunlight on the skin by activating the two photoreceptors peropsin and rhodopsin. This not only revitalises the skin, but also improves mood and promotes a more relaxed attitude.
Rootness Mood+ increases the distribution of vitamin D by expressing transporters by 35 per cent and receptors by 15 per cent. It also stimulates the production of serotonin and melatonin.
Efficacy test with Rootness Mood
The excellent effect of Rootness Mood+ and tormentic acid has already been proven in a comprehensive study. The study involved women who complained of low mood and dull, uneven skin. One group applied the active ingredient in a concentration of 1.0 per cent to their face twice a day, while another group received a placebo.
While no change was observed in the control group, the first group experienced an increase in relaxation of around 280 per cent, which was also clearly noticeable in their skin appearance. The homogeneity of the skin’s appearance increased by 16 per cent. After 28 days of use, 87 of the participants stated that their skin looked revitalised. Eighty per cent reported that they felt their skin was strengthened.
The relaxing effect on mood was measured using electroencephalography and a special headset device. It was comparable to a yoga session.
Gentle extraction
The active ingredient has already won four major awards this year: It was awarded third place in the ‘Environment’ category at the BSB Innovation Awards and second place in the ‘Active Ingredients’ category. At the CITE Japan Awards, it received the bronze medal in the “Technology” category. It also received the Ringier Technology Innovation Award. The manufacturer itself describes its active ingredient as a ‘light-imitating skin tone equaliser’.
It is obtained using Plant Milking Technology, which is considered particularly environmentally friendly and ecological, as no plants need to be destroyed for harvesting. They are cultivated under aeroponic conditions, and thanks to the patented process, direct access to the roots is possible. Rootness Mood+ with tormentic acid can be offered as a cream or lotion.
Tormentic acid profile
INCI: Tormentic Acid
Alternative name: 2?,3?,19-trihydroxyurs-12-en-28-oic acid
CAS number: 13850-16-3
Description: Tormentic acid is a natural active ingredient isolated from plants.
Molecular formula: C30H48O5
Molecular weight: 488.7 g/mol
Effects: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective, antidiabetic, hypoglycaemic, neuroprotective and cardioprotective, antibacterial, antiviral, anticancer and antiproliferative, among others (Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8270333/)
Tormentic acid, an innovation in modern cosmetics
Tormentic acid is a completely natural substance that is very well suited for high-quality cosmetic products due to its exceptional properties (including anti-inflammatory and antioxidant) and its high biological activity. Do you have any questions about this innovative active ingredient? Cosmacon will be happy to take the time to answer them.
Literature:
The Occurrence and Biological Activity of Tormentic Acid—A Review.
Olech M, Ziemichód W, Nowacka-Jechalke N. Molecules. 22 June 2021; 26(13):3797.