Rosehip Oil in Cosmetics – Properties, Fatty Acid Profile, and Efficacy

At a Glance

Rosehip oil (INCI: Rosa Canina Seed Oil or Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil) is a plant-based oil derived from the seeds of various wild rose species. It is used in cosmetic formulations primarily due to its high content of essential fatty acids and natural antioxidants. The oil supports the skin barrier, improves skin elasticity, and can help care for dry skin or skin in need of regeneration. Typical concentrations in cosmetic products range from 1% to 10%.

What is rosehip oil from a chemical perspective?

Rosehip oil is a plant-based lipid mixture consisting of triglycerides and bioactive accompanying substances.

Physicochemical properties

In addition to fatty acids, the oil also contains:

• natural tocopherols (vitamin E)
• carotenoids
• phytosterols

These substances contribute to the oil’s antioxidant properties.

What fatty acids does rosehip oil contain?

The oil has a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids.

The high content of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids explains the oil’s suitability for barrier repair and skin care.

Why are there two different INCI names for rosehip oil?

Two different INCI names appear in cosmetic ingredient lists: Rosa Canina Seed Oil and Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil.

Both refer to oils derived from the seeds of wild rose species, which are collectively known as “rose hips.”

The differences are primarily based on botanical origin:

What does this mean for the quality of the oil?

The different INCI name is not a direct indicator of quality, but merely describes the botanical species of the plant.

In practice, the quality of rosehip oil is primarily determined by the following factors:

Key quality parameters

• Origin and variety of the plant
• Extraction method (cold-pressing vs. solvent)
• Degree of oxidation of the oil
• Content of tocopherols and carotenoids
• Fatty acid profile

Differences in composition

Oils from Rosa rubiginosa often exhibit:

• higher linolenic acid (omega-3) content
• more intense reddish color
• sometimes higher carotenoid content

Oils from Rosa canina, on the other hand, are:

• slightly more stable
• often more neutral in odor
• widely used in European cosmetic production

What skin-care properties does rosehip oil have?

The oil primarily supports the skin barrier and promotes regeneration.

Cosmetically relevant effects

• Support of the skin lipid barrier
• Improvement of skin elasticity
• Promotion of skin regeneration
• Support of moisture balance

These effects are primarily attributable to the essential fatty acids and accompanying antioxidants.

In which cosmetic products is rosehip oil used?

The raw material is frequently used in care products for dry or mature skin.

Typical applications

• Facial oils
• Anti-aging serums
• Regenerating night care
• Body oils
• Scar care products

The oil is also widely used in natural cosmetics.

What are the benefits of rosehip oil in cosmetic formulations?

The oil possesses several beneficial properties for formulations.

Advantages

• high content of essential fatty acids
• good skin compatibility
• natural antioxidant compounds
• pleasant skin feel

These properties make the oil a commonly used lipid in skincare products.

What are the disadvantages or challenges?

The oil also has some technological limitations.

Typical disadvantages

• Relatively high susceptibility to oxidation
• Limited shelf life without antioxidants
• Sensory changes during aging

Practical guide for developers

1. Use of antioxidants (e.g., tocopherol)
2. Light-protected packaging
3. Stability testing over 12–24 months

These measures are important during product development.

What scientific studies exist on rosehip oil?

Several dermatological studies have investigated its effects on the skin.

Examples of described effects

• Improvement in skin moisture
• Support for skin regeneration
• Reduction of visible signs of skin aging

Studies also report positive effects on scar care and skin elasticity.

How is rosehip oil classified from a regulatory perspective?

The raw material is permitted for cosmetic use in the EU.

Regulatory Key Points

• INCI: Rosa Canina Seed Oil
• Not restricted in the annexes of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009
• Evaluation is conducted in the Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR)

For plant-based oils, the following must be evaluated in particular:

• Oxidation products
• Purity and pesticide residues
• Stability in the final product

Conclusion on rosehip oil

For rapid market entry, Tojo Cosmetics offers EU-compliant white-label products that are already based on plant-based skincare oils.

For custom formulations, Cosactive offers formulation-tested active ingredients and functional raw materials starting from small quantities.

When developing products with rosehip oil, particular attention should be paid to oxidation stability, antioxidants, and packaging.

Please feel free to contact us if you’d like us to create a custom product for you.

FAQ

What is rosehip oil in cosmetics?

A plant-based seed oil derived from wild roses that is rich in essential fatty acids.

What effect does rosehip oil have on the skin?

It supports the skin barrier, improves elasticity, and has a nourishing effect.

Is rosehip oil suitable for dry skin?

Yes, due to its high content of essential fatty acids.

Can rosehip oil oxidize?

Yes, it is relatively prone to oxidation and requires antioxidant protection.

What concentrations are used?

Typical usage concentrations range from 1 to 10%.

Is rosehip oil permitted in the EU?

Yes, it is permitted for use in cosmetics.

Does every product containing rosehip oil require a safety assessment?

Yes, every cosmetic formulation requires its own safety assessment.

References

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12006136/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19134140/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22849564/