Plant polyphenols: powerful protective substances for healthy skin
Plant polyphenols are much more than just secondary plant substances: they are true all-rounders of nature and a valuable treasure for modern skin care. These bioactive compounds protect plants from harmful environmental influences, microorganisms and UV radiation. They are playing an increasingly important role in cosmetic products due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. But what exactly are plant polyphenols, where do they occur, how do they affect our skin – and why should they be part of every skincare routine?
Occurrence and botanical origin
Plant polyphenols are found in a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, tea, wine and even chocolate. Grapes, apples, berries, citrus fruits and green tea leaves are particularly rich sources. Plants produce these substances as part of their polyketide metabolism to protect themselves against pathogens, UV rays and oxidative stress. Many polyphenols are species-specific, which underlines their importance as a ‘biochemical fingerprint’.
They are classified into four main groups based on their chemical structure: phenolic acids, flavonoids, stilbenes and lignans. Flavonoids make up two-thirds of the plant polyphenols consumed in the diet.
Some notable plant sources are:
Vitis vinifera (grapevine): Provides procyanidins from the seeds and resveratrol from the skin.
Citrus sinensis (orange) and Citrus limonium (lemon): Contain flavonoids such as hesperidin and narirutin.
Citrus paradisi (grapefruit): Main source of bitter-tasting naringin.
Camellia sinensis (tea plant): The main source of catechins and gallates in green and black tea.
These plants thrive in temperate to subtropical regions, prefer sunny locations with well-drained soil and can live for several decades, depending on the species.
Production and cosmetic application
Plant polyphenols are usually obtained by extraction from dried plant material. Aqueous or alcoholic extraction agents and modern methods such as ultrasound or CO₂ extraction are used. Their high biological activity is advantageous. However, they can become unstable when exposed to light, oxygen and temperature, which is why careful formulation is necessary.
In the cosmetics industry, plant polyphenols are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and vascular protective properties. They protect the skin from free radicals, stabilise cell membranes and can alleviate skin redness. They are particularly suitable for products designed to combat skin ageing, for sensitive skin and for skin exposed to the sun.
Well-known polyphenols at a glance
A classic among plant polyphenols is quercetin. It is found in ginkgo biloba, Crataegus species and oak species (Quercus) and is one of the most thoroughly researched flavonoids. Quercetin has pronounced antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties.
(+)-Catechin is found in beans, red grapes, apricots and strawberries. It is a flavanol with a catechol structure on the B ring. Together with its isomer, (-)-epicatechin, which is found in apples, cherries and chocolate, it is known for its excellent radical scavenging properties. Both molecules can inhibit lipid peroxidation and stabilise the skin’s antioxidant network.
Procyanidins, which consist of catechin and epicatechin units, are powerful antioxidants and also have a vasoprotective effect. They are found in high concentrations in cocoa, red grapes and apples.
Resveratrol, a stilbene found mainly in the skin of red grapes, is known for its skin-soothing, cell-protecting and possibly skin-rejuvenating effects. It has both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and is a popular ingredient in anti-ageing formulations.
Hesperidin and narirutin, found in citrus fruits such as oranges, strengthen the capillary walls and can improve the appearance of skin affected by couperose or rosacea.
Another notable polyphenol is chlorogenic acid, which is found in coffee. It has antioxidant and antibacterial properties and is ideal for clarifying skincare products.
Chemical-physical profile
Quercetin: yellow solid, C15H10O7, insoluble in water, soluble in ethanol, melting point approx. 316 °C, INCI: Quercetin
Catechin: white to slightly yellowish solid, C15H14O6, soluble in water and alcohol, INCI: Catechin.
Epicatechin: whitish solid, C15H14O6, soluble in water, INCI: Epicatechin.
Procyanidin B2: brown solid, C₃₀H₂₆O₁₂, water-soluble, INCI: Procyanidins.
Resveratrol: white solid, C14H12O3, poorly soluble in water, melting point 253 °C, INCI: Resveratrol
Chlorogenic acid: whitish to light yellow solid, C16H18O9, soluble in water, INCI: Chlorogenic Acid
Hesperidin: yellowish solid, C₂₈H₃₄O₁₅, poorly soluble in water, INCI: Hesperidin
Also frequently used: Quercetin
A particularly effective representative of plant polyphenols is quercetin. This flavonol is found in apples, onions, grapes, ginkgo biloba and various types of berries. Quercetin is highly valued in skin care due to its strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It neutralises free radicals, protects cells from oxidative damage and inhibits the release of pro-inflammatory messenger substances. In addition, it strengthens the skin barrier, improves microcirculation and increases the skin’s resistance to UV-induced damage. Chemically, quercetin is a yellow solid with the molecular formula C15H10O7, which is poorly soluble in water but soluble in ethanol. With a melting point of around 316 °C, it is one of the more stable flavonoids. In cosmetics, it is listed under the INCI name quercetin and is considered a valuable ingredient in anti-ageing products and formulations designed to soothe sensitive or stressed skin.
Other uses
In addition to skin care, plant polyphenols are also used in dietary supplements, pharmaceutical products and functional foods and beverages. Due to their antioxidant potential, they are valuable ingredients in the fight against premature ageing, chronic inflammation and cardiovascular disease.
Conclusion and outlook
Plant polyphenols combine a variety of positive properties: they have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and vascular protective effects and thus contribute significantly to maintaining skin health.
Due to their natural origin and versatile effects, they are ideal for modern, sophisticated cosmetic formulations, especially in the anti-ageing sector and for sensitive skin. Cosmacon GmbH has extensive expertise in the development of innovative cosmetic products with plant polyphenols.
Whether individually formulated solutions or proven white label products from our partner company Tojo Cosmetics GmbH – together with our partner companies, we create the basis for your rapid market entry with high-quality, effective products. Contact us – we will be happy to advise you!
Literature:
Vicente-Zurdo D, Gómez-Mejía E, Morante-Zarcero S, Rosales-Conrado N, Sierra I.Molecules. 2025 Mar 15;30(6):1326
Gǎlbǎu CŞ, Irimie M, Neculau AE, Dima L, Pogačnik da Silva L, Vârciu M, Badea M.Antioxidants (Basel). 2024 Nov 20;13(11):1425
Polyphenolic Spectrum of Goji Berries and Their Health-Promoting Activity.
Jurikova T, Tinakova SM, Ziarovska J, Szekeres L, Mlcek J, Fatrcova-Sramkova K, Knazicka Z, Skrovankova S.Foods. 2025 Apr 17;14(8):1387.
Ghosh M, Sarkar N.Chembiochem. 2024 Dec 2;25(23):e202400335
Natural Compounds with Beneficial Effects on Skin Collagen Type I and Mechanisms of Their Action.
Żynda W, Ruczaj A, Galicka A.Antioxidants (Basel). 2025 Mar 26;14(4):389