Phytoceramides
Phytoceramides are plant-based equivalents of the ceramides that occur naturally in human skin. They are among the most important building blocks of the skin barrier and protect against moisture loss and external influences such as UV radiation or pollutants. Phytoceramides from wheat, as in Ceramosides™, are particularly effective because they are combined with additional lipids such as digalactosyl diglycerides, which optimize their absorption and effect.
A clinical study shows that the nutraceutical ingredient phytoceramides (ceramosides HP) improves both skin and hair beauty in healthy women by reducing hair loss and stimulating hair growth.
Hair loss can be a significant psychological burden for those affected. It is estimated that one in two women experiences noticeable hair loss at some point in their lives. Regardless of the cause, hair loss can be an emotional burden. Unwanted changes in appearance can have a negative impact on self-esteem and social life[1]. The hair care sector is therefore becoming increasingly important in the global nutricosmetics market.
It is a gluten-free wheat lipid extract developed in 2006, whose main active ingredients are phytoceramides. Using a special extraction process, Seppic has succeeded in producing a unique synergistic complex that combines phytoceramides with digalactosyl diglycerides (DGDG). DGDG is a self-emulsifying mixture that occurs naturally in wheat and improves the metabolism and absorption of ceramides.
Ceramides and their importance for skin and hair
The skin is a three-layered organ consisting of hypodermis, dermis and epidermis. The uppermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, serves as a barrier against the environment. It consists of “dead” skin cells, corneocytes, and lipids found in the intercellular spaces. The lipids can be of different types (cholesterol, free fatty acids, etc.), but the most important type of lipid is ceramides. Ceramides play an important role in supporting the skin’s barrier function and its water permeability[2]. Studies have shown a correlation between a decrease in ceramide levels in the stratum corneum and physiological changes such as skin dryness, skin aging and atopic dermatitis[3].
The cosmetics industry has recognized the potential of ceramides and made them a key ingredient in anti-aging products. Ceramides are involved in the formation of intracellular lipids and act as a barrier to protect the skin and hair cuticle. Ceramides are produced by the sebaceous glands associated with the hair follicles and are distributed over the entire surface of the body. On the scalp, they even play a dual role, as they are involved in both the scalp barrier and the hair fiber barrier.
However, with age, the body becomes less effective at synthesizing ceramides. It is therefore important to provide the skin with the right lipids to prevent the signs of skin and hair aging.
CERAMOSIDE HP: a scientifically based active ingredient with a low dosage and fast effect
The DGDGs of this lipid complex contribute to the effectiveness of the phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) by improving the metabolism and absorption of the ceramides. This synergistic effect between the lipids enhances the effect of phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) and quickly delivers visible results, even at a low daily dose.
Seppic has investigated the mechanism of action of phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) in 3 in vitro studies. Phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) were shown to stimulate the production of a collagenase inhibitor in fibroblast cell cultures, thereby better maintaining the integrity of the collagen network. Phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) have also been shown to be an effective elastase inhibitor, helping to protect the skin’s elastic fibers from inflammation-related breakdown. Finally, phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) have been shown to help fight free radicals and inhibit oxidative reactions in the body.
In recent decades, ceramides have been the subject of much scientific attention. It has been shown that oral ceramides are highly effective in strengthening the skin barrier from the inside out. As a result, several clinical studies have been conducted to investigate the efficacy of phytoceramides (ceramosides HP) in skin and hair aging.
Clinically proven benefits for skin with CERAMOSIDES HP
The effect of phytoceramides (ceramosides HP) on the skin has been scientifically proven in 3 clinical studies. The first pilot study with phytoceramides (ceramosides HP) was conducted in 2013 on 20 healthy women with dry skin. A confirmatory RCT study was conducted in 2017 with 60 healthy women with dry skin (CI<50) and signs of skin aging aged 30 to 60 years [5]. The second RCT study was published in 2022 and included 72 healthy women aged 30 to 60 years with dry skin (CI<50) and signs of skin aging [6].
This randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled gold standard study showed excellent and significant results in just 15 days with only 70 mg phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) oil or 30 mg phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) powder.
The 2022 study showed a statistically significant improvement in skin hydration of 19%, a reduction in transepidermal water loss of 13%, an improvement in skin elasticity of 18%, and a reduction in skin wrinkles of 10% in just 15 days compared to placebo. These results were still significant and increasing in clarity even after 56 days. The product’s efficacy was also confirmed by the study participants. 91% of the test subjects stated that their skin felt significantly better moisturized and more elastic after the treatment.
In addition, a follow-up treatment effect was examined in the recently published confirmatory study, which showed that two months after the end of supplementation, the skin gradually lost the effect of the phytoceramide (ceramosides HP) supplementation, but did not return to baseline. Phytoceramides (ceramosides HP) also proved effective in the group of postmenopausal women. The results were comparable to those of the other age groups and statistically significant.
Clinical study with PHYTOCERAMIDE as a dietary supplement
In 2022, another clinical study was conducted with PHYTOCERAMIDE (CERAMOSIDES) to investigate how oral intake of phytoceramides from wheat can improve hair loss, hair strength and sebum levels in the scalp. The clinical study was designed as a randomized, parallel, double-blind, placebo-controlled study in 66 healthy women of all ages (18-65) with excessive hair loss (acute telogen effluvium)[7].
For food supplements, Seppic offers CERAMOSIDES in two forms: CERAMOSIDES POWDER NUTRA and CERAMOSIDES OIL NUTRA.
The impressive results of this study
In terms of hair growth, the women who received a wheat lipid extract showed an increase of +4400 anagen hairs (new and growing hairs) at D56 and +11000 anagen hairs at D84. Furthermore, the hair grew faster, with a significant increase in hair length of 12.5% within 3 months (compared to placebo).
In terms of hair loss, phytoceramides (ceramosides) were able to rapidly reduce the effects of non-pathogenic hair loss within 3 months: The proportion of telogen hairs on the scalp reached -18% at D56 compared to D0 and -27% at D84. Furthermore, the density and proportion of telogen hairs in the extract group were reduced faster and more than in the placebo group.
In addition, the examinations performed by the dermatologists as part of the study showed that the strength and elasticity of the hair increased significantly after taking PHYTOCERAMID (CERAMOSIDES).
Women in the CERAMOSIDES™ group found that after 84 days of taking the supplement, their hair was less oily, grew faster, lost less and appeared more voluminous (Fig. 1).
The clinical study described above thus indicates that phytoceramides (Ceramosides) not only counteract hair loss but also stimulate hair growth. Hair is strengthened and more elastic.
Phytoceramide Ceramosides HP Photos
The efficacy of supplementation with CERAMOSIDES™ on hair was demonstrated in another gold standard study from 2023 (publication pending). This study also showed that phytoceramides (Ceramosides) improved hair growth and reduced hair loss in menopausal women.
Physico-chemical properties of phytoceramides
– INCI name: glycosphingolipids, glycolipids
– Main components: glucosylceramides and digalactosyldiglycerides (DGDG)
– Source: extracted from wheat lipids
– Form: powder or oil
– Solubility: water or oil, depending on the form
Packaging: Free from additives and preservatives, made from European wheat.
CERAMOSIDES™: a versatile ingredient for a range of product concepts
Phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) powder is available as a water-dispersible powder and is ideal for a wide range of applications. It can be easily incorporated into various delivery forms such as beverages, gummy bears, powder sticks or chocolate bites, as well as capsules and tablets. PHYTOCERAMIDE (CERAMOSIDES HP) is also available as an oil and can be used for stable emulsions, soft gel capsules and other delivery forms such as beverages.
Phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) enable manufacturers to meet the growing demand for clean label ingredients. Phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP) are free from additives and preservatives and are produced in France from European wheat.
Finally, SEPPIC also offers phytoceramides (Ceramosides HP), a cosmetic variant of the product for topical application, enabling an inside-out approach.
Product ideas for phytoceramides in cosmetics
Day and night creams
Phytoceramides can be incorporated into moisturizing creams for dry and mature skin to strengthen the skin barrier and reduce wrinkles.
Hair care products
Shampoos and conditioners with phytoceramides protect the scalp, strengthen the hair structure and reduce hair breakage.
Lip care
Lip balms with phytoceramides help to retain moisture and protect against chapped lips.
Sunscreen products
Sunscreens can be enhanced with the antioxidant and moisturizing properties of phytoceramides.
Dietary supplements
Powders or capsules with phytoceramides promote skin health from the inside and complement cosmetic applications.
Conclusion Phytoceramides
The increasing demand for nutricosmetics and the popularity of the pro-ageing trend make phytoceramides (ceramosides HP) particularly attractive for brands offering high-quality and effective products. Cosmacon and its partner Seppic have pre-developed a number of formulations that could certainly fit well into your brand portfolio. Just ask us.
For more detailed information, please contact Ms. Eugenia Bakhrakh at Seppic at eugenia.bakhrakh@airliquide.com.
Literature:
- Nina L Tamashunas, Wilma F Bergfeld. Male and female pattern hair loss: Treatable and worth treating, Cleve Clin J Med, 2021 Mar 1;88(3):173-182. doi: 10.3949/ccjm.88a.20014.
- LAFFORGUE, Epidermal lipids and the stratum corneum, Réalités Thérapeutiques en Dermato-Vénérologie, 2008 ; 179 : 2 UEDA, Drug Metab. Pharmacokinet, 2009 ; 24 (2): 180–184
- Jonca N. 2019. Ceramides metabolism and impaired epidermal barrier in cutaneous diseases and skin aging: focus on the role of the enzyme PNPLA1 in the synthesis of v-O-acylceramides and its pathophysiological involvement in some forms of congenital ichthyoses. OCL 26: 17.
- Ueda O, Hasegawa M, Kitamura S. Distribution in Skin of Ceramide after Oral Administration to Rats. Drug Metabolism and Pharmacokinetics. 2009;24(2):180-184.
- Bizot, V. et al. Improving Skin Hydration and Age-related Symptoms by Oral Administration of Wheat Glucosylceramides and Digalactosyl Diglycerides: A Human Clinical Study. Cosmetics 2017, 4, 37.
- Catherine Kern PhD, Stéphanie Dudonné PhD, Christine Garcia PhD., Dietary supplementation with a wheat polar lipid complex improves skin conditions in women with dry skin and mild-to-moderate skin aging,J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023;00:1–11.
- Stéphanie Dudonné et al., Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study, Int J Cosmet Sc. 2023;00:1-13.
- Glycosphingolipids in Filamentous Fungi: Biological Roles and Potential Applications in Cosmetics and Health Foods. Jiang C, Ge J, He B, Zeng B.Front Microbiol. 2021 Jul 22;12:690211
- The role of ceramides in the disruption of the cutaneous permeability barrier, a common manifestation ofskin Feingold KR, Elias PM.J Lipid Res. 2024 Aug;65(8):100593