Occlusion effects as an active ingredient in modern skin care

The term occlusion refers to the sealing of a surface – in the context of cosmetics, this means the skin. In a narrower definition, occlusion means complete sealing, i.e. impermeable to water vapour and air. In practice, this cannot be achieved by cosmetic products alone, but only with the aid of gloves, plasters or bandages, for example. Cosmetic products, on the other hand, can create semi-occlusive conditions – for example, through peel-off masks or rich cream masks. These ensure that the skin is intensively cared for and fine lines appear smoothed for several hours.

Occlusion effects as an active ingredient for the skin

The targeted use of occlusion effects as an active ingredient opens up fascinating possibilities in skin care. Under occlusive conditions, there is increased water retention in the horny layer (hyperhydration).

As a result, the stratum corneum can absorb up to 300–400% of its dry weight in water within a short period of time and swell significantly. This effect makes the skin soft, supple and more permeable to other active ingredients. At the same time, however, changes in the microbial flora, an influence on the acid mantle or temporary redness may occur – which is why a balanced formulation is crucial.

Skinflooding – a new skincare ritual based on occlusion effects

One of the latest developments in modern skincare is the concept of skinflushing. This skincare ritual is based on the targeted layering of several hydrating products, which are ‘sealed’ by an occlusive finish (e.g. rich creams or oils). The occlusion effects act as the active ingredient here: moisture remains in the skin for longer, resulting in improved hydration, a smoother surface and enhanced absorption of active ingredients. Skinflooding therefore makes use of the old principle of occlusion in a modern way to make skin care particularly effective.

Slugging – intensive care with an occlusive finish

Another method based on the same principles is slugging. This involves finishing your skincare routine with a particularly occlusive layer to lock in moisture for a longer period of time. Slugging is particularly suitable as an occasional intensive treatment for dry or mature skin. However, this method is less suitable for oily or blemish-prone skin types, as it can lead to heat build-up and clogged pores. Sensitive skin should also be introduced to slugging with caution, as the longer exposure time of active ingredients can irritate the skin more.

Modern assessment of occlusion in cosmetics

Scientific studies show that healthy skin is not damaged by temporary occlusion (up to about 4 hours). Even much-discussed ingredients such as mineral or silicone oils cannot hermetically ‘seal’ the skin – the skin’s surface is too complex for this when viewed under a microscope. Instead, they create a semi-occlusive effect that binds moisture without blocking the skin’s ability to breathe. This makes it clear that occlusion effects as active ingredients are a valuable tool in cosmetic formulations when used in a targeted manner.

Our conclusion: The targeted use of occlusion effects as active ingredients is one of the most exciting approaches in modern skin care – especially with new trends such as skin flooding.

At Cosmacon, we develop innovative, scientifically based cosmetics that make targeted use of these effects. Those who want to enter the market more quickly can benefit from the white label products of Tojo Cosmetics GmbH, which have already been successfully developed and are ready for immediate use.

Please feel free to ask us and we will be happy to advise you.

Literature:

1. Bouwstra, J.A. et al. (2003)

Title: Water distribution and related morphology in human stratum corneum at different hydration levels; PubMed (short summary): available via PubMed PubMed

2. Gabard, B. & Treffel, P. (2004)

Chapter: Transepidermal water loss; Reference in NCBI PMC (article): Chapter cited as source PubMed

3. Harding, C.R. (2004)

Article: The stratum corneum: structure and function in health and disease; PubMed entry (with abstract): available PubMed

4. Harding, C.R. & Scott, I.R. (2002)

Chapter: Stratum corneum moisturising factors in Skin Moisturisation (Leyden & Rawlings, 2002)

· Information about the book (title, authors, publisher, ISBN): via book database Miami University Bookstore

5. Landmann, L. (1991)

Article: The permeability barrier of the skin (Pharmacy in our time, 20, 155–163)

Bibliography / PDF document (FH Berlin / FU Berlin): available TiHo Library

6. Wilhelm, K.-P. (1998)

Article: Skin hydration measurements: general considerations and possible pitfalls; PubMed (with DOI and abstract):available at ‘Possible pitfalls in hydration measurements’ PubMed+1

7. Wehler, U. (2011)

Dissertation: Skin physiological investigations into repetitive glove occlusions