Kojic acid – an effective active ingredient for an even complexion
The skin care industry is constantly on the lookout for active ingredients that can improve the appearance, complexion and radiance of the skin. One of the best-known and most effective active ingredients in the field of skin lightening is kojic acid. It has been used successfully in Asia for years and has now also established itself in Western cosmetics.
Physical and chemical characteristics of kojic acid
Chemical name: 5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one
Molecular formula: C₆H₆O₄
Molar mass: 142.11 g/mol
Appearance: white to light yellow crystalline powder
Solubility: very soluble in water, soluble in ethanol
Melting point: approx. 152–154 °C
Stability: sensitive to light and heat
Kojic acid is effective in cosmetic formulations, but must also be handled with care. Our in-house safety assessor therefore strictly limits its concentration to a maximum of 0.7%. This value ensures that the skin benefits from its positive properties without taking any unnecessary risks.
Natural occurrence of kojic acid
Kojic acid is a natural substance produced during the fermentation of certain fungi, in particular Aspergillus oryzae. This fungus is traditionally used in the production of soy sauce and sake. Its natural occurrence underlines the close connection between kojic acid and proven fermentation processes that have been used for centuries.
How does the ingredient work in the skin?
The active ingredient exerts its main effect by specifically inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which plays a key role in melanin formation in melanocytes. Normally, this enzyme converts the amino acid tyrosine into DOPA and then into DOPA quinone – key precursors of pigment production. Blocking this activity reduces excessive melanin formation. The result: a more even complexion and a visible reduction in hyperpigmentation such as age spots, sun-induced pigmentation disorders or melasma.
The substance also has other positive properties:
- Antioxidant effect: Neutralises free radicals caused by UV radiation or environmental pollution.
- Protection of the skin structure: reduction of oxidative damage to collagen and elastin, keeping the skin firm and elastic for longer.
- Gentle effect: compared to more aggressive depigmentation agents, it is considered particularly skin-friendly when used in controlled doses.
In combination with vitamin C or niacinamide, synergistic effects are also created: vitamin C supports collagen synthesis and enhances the antioxidant effect, while niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and improves the overall appearance of the skin.
This multi-stage mechanism of action makes the ingredient an important component of modern skin care products for treating pigmentation disorders and light-induced skin ageing.
Effect of kojic acid on the skin
Kojic acid is best known for its brightening effect. It inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the formation of melanin. This allows it to reduce hyperpigmentation and ensure a more even complexion.
Other positive effects:
– Antioxidant: It neutralises free radicals and protects the skin from oxidative stress.
– Anti-ageing: It protects collagen from damage caused by free radicals and prevents fine lines.
– Skin refining: It gives the skin more radiance and freshness.
Kojic acid is therefore considered a key ingredient in modern formulations aimed at improving the appearance of the skin and correcting the complexion.
Product ideas
Kojic acid has a wide range of applications in cosmetics:
– Brightening serums for the targeted reduction of pigment spots.
– Anti-ageing creams: protection against free radicals, combined with skin-brightening effects.
– Night care products: regeneration and visible improvement of the skin overnight.
– Special products against hyperpigmentation for an even skin tone.
– Eye creams to minimise dark shadows and discolouration.
At Cosmacon, we like to combine it with other antioxidants such as vitamin C or niacinamide in order to achieve a noticeable efficacy boost.
Conclusion: Kojic acid is an effective component of modern skin care
Kojic acid is a highly effective and versatile ingredient that can be used in many innovative skin care products. Thanks to its brightening, antioxidant and protective effects, it is ideal for serums, creams and special care products. The clear limit of 0.7% set by the safety assessor ensures an optimal balance between effectiveness and skin compatibility.
If you are interested in developing products with kojic acid or other exciting active ingredients, we are the right partner for you.
Feel free to give us a call if you would like to have tailor-made cosmetics developed.
Our partner Tojo Cosmetics is your experienced private label partner with immediately available, market-ready products based on kojic acid and many other active ingredients.
Literature:
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Kojic-acid
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/biochemistry-genetics-and-molecular-biology/kojic-acid