Hair care and hair types
The appropriate shampoo and hair care products depend on the respective hair types, as these have different needs that must be taken into account.
Suitable hair washing
The main task of shampoos is to remove naturally occurring oils and other substances produced by the body, as well as any residues from hair cosmetics, such as hairspray, from the hair and scalp. Nowadays, however, shampoo is no longer used solely for cleansing, but is also tailored to the specific needs of certain hair types. To this end, active ingredients are used that are adapted to different hair qualities and scalp problems.
Proper hair care
The aim of hair care is to restore damaged hair to a condition similar to its natural state and to maintain this for as long as possible. Regrowing hair is healthy and its condition cannot be improved any further. Hair care should prevent or reduce damage to the hair. External influences such as UV radiation, mechanical stress and, in some cases, chemical treatments cause ageing and damage, which manifests itself in dry and split hair. The cuticle layer on the lengths of the hair is roughened or even broken down. This damage is largely unavoidable and fundamentally irreversible. However, to give the hair a healthy, smooth feel, the cuticle layer can be smoothed and other care products can be used. Hair care products mainly use oils, silicones and quaternary ammonium compounds, which nourish the hair and coat the hair lengths. This closes the cuticle layer, preventing the hair from drying out as quickly and making it easier to comb, which in turn reduces mechanical stress. By reducing static electricity, the hair does not fly around when dry. However, hair care should be tailored to the hair type: moisturising substances nourish and condition the hair, but can weigh down some hair types, leaving the hair lacking in bounce and lying flat on the head.
The product range includes hair treatments, conditioners, pre-treatment products and hair tonics. A further distinction is made between leave-in products, which remain in the hair, and rinse-off products, which are applied to wet hair after washing and rinsed out thoroughly after a certain amount of time.
Hair types
Thin/fine hair: Thin hair is sensitive and weak. Due to its fine structure, hairstyles fall flat more quickly and the hair lies close to the scalp.
As fine hair can quickly appear greasy, people with this hair type usually wash their hair more often, which is why shampoos with mild surfactants should be used. The formulations should contain strengthening and volumising substances and, if possible, avoid heavy ingredients.
For care, volumising products that do not weigh down the hair should be used. They should also moisturise; aloe vera, amino acids and protein hydrolysates are suitable, for example. Care products that promise shine and smoothness should be used as little as possible.
Long hair: Longer hair is often exposed to harsher conditions. It is combed more often, tied back, rests on the shoulders or rubs against clothing. As a result, long hair is often damaged and appears dull and straw-like. The ends can be particularly dry and thin, and split ends are usually visible. If the hair is split at the ends, the only solution is to cut it. Dry ends can be prevented by regular treatments with tip fluid or hair oil.
These hair types should avoid frequent washing and use mild shampoos to prevent drying out. It can also be helpful to wash only the scalp and hairline to protect the length of the hair.
To strengthen long hair and make it smooth and shiny, a conditioner should be used after washing. It moisturises and nourishes the hair. Occasional hair treatments and the use of hair oils are recommended.
Hair that quickly becomes greasy: These hair types have increased oil production in the sebaceous glands of the scalp. After a short time, the hair becomes stringy and less voluminous, because the oily and greasy components of the skin oil reduce friction between the hairs and thus the hold of hairstyles.
To delay the hair from falling flat, it is important to prevent the surface of the hair from becoming too smooth and supple. Herbal extracts containing tannins ensure that the hair surface is slightly roughened. Less commonly used are moisturising and nourishing substances, as well as ingredients that coat the hair lengths to improve shine.
Protein hydrolysates are similar to hair in their chemical structure; they are absorbed by the hair and skin keratin and provide care without having a moisturising effect. Moisturising care products can be used.
Dry hair: In contrast to hair types that quickly become greasy, sebum production is too low here. The hair is dry and brittle from the scalp.
Shampoos should contain a higher proportion of nourishing substances than those for normal hair. As the cleansing substances have a drying effect, only the scalp and roots should be washed, leaving out the lengths. Mild shampoos should be used wherever possible and frequent hair washing should be avoided.
Care products may contain a high proportion of oil and wax-like raw materials, as well as lecithin, protein hydrolysates and cationic substances. A conditioner should be used after every wash and weekly hair treatments strengthen the hair. Oils or sprays can be massaged into dry hair in small amounts to give it shine and suppleness.
Damaged hair: Damaged hair is mainly caused by frequent styling with hair dryers, curling irons and straightening irons: heat damages the hair, dries it out and makes it brittle. It feels straw-like and brittle and can be difficult to comb. The hair has a very rough cuticle layer and is prone to split ends.
Shampoos should have a high conditioning content, similar to shampoos for dry hair.
Special ‘repair’ care products contain rich ingredients that moisturise and nourish the hair after washing (which dries it out). These products also contain high levels of cationic substances and silicones, which coat the hair and smooth the cuticle layer. The hair becomes supple and easier to comb. As with dry hair, conditioners, treatments and hair oil should be included in the care routine.
Coloured hair: Chemical treatments put a lot of strain on the hair, as the dyes cause the hair to swell so that pigments can penetrate. The cuticle layer of the hair is damaged, leaving the hair dry, brittle and dull.
Shampoos and care products for coloured hair contain a high proportion of nourishing and moisturising ingredients, because the drier the hair is, the less well it retains its colour. They also contain silicones, which close the cuticle layer and thus ‘seal’ the pigments.
Curly hair: Unlike thin or straight hair, curly hair does not lie close to the scalp. This means that it is hardly nourished by the sebum from the scalp, which makes the hair supple. The curvature of the hair often breaks the cuticle layer, making the hair porous and dry, and more susceptible to damage from external influences.
Moisturising and rich shampoos should be used to make the hair supple and prevent breakage and dryness.
When it comes to hair care, care should be taken to ensure that the products are not too rich, as this would take away the natural bounce from the hair. Conditioners that promise more volume contain moisturising and nourishing ingredients without weighing the hair down. Light hair oils and sprays provide suppleness and shine.
Grey/mature hair: Hair greying is a natural process and occurs at different ages for different people. The reason for this is a decline in the production of colour pigments. With age, not only does this decrease, but so does the production of keratin: the hair becomes thinner, drier and appears dull and bristly
Even when washing your hair, you should use nourishing, rich and moisturising shampoos. These strengthen the hair and give it shine and smoothness.
In addition to nourishing conditioners, treatments and leave-in products can also be used for care. They smooth the hair structure and leave it feeling soft and supple.
Scalp care
Flaky scalp: Dandruff can have several causes. It can be triggered by illness, poor nutrition and allergic reactions, but also by aggressive care products that upset the acid mantle of the scalp, as well as by over- or under-production of the sebaceous glands. A disturbed scalp greatly increases the growth of naturally occurring microorganisms – the scalp reacts to this by increasing keratinisation for protection.
As this is a problem affecting the scalp, washing the hair is clearly the most important step. Shampoos should have more than just a cleansing effect: they should remove loose skin flakes from the scalp and, in the long term, reduce the formation of new dandruff. The problem is that after washing, only a few of the anti-dandruff ingredients remain on the scalp, meaning that no long-term effect can be achieved.
Special hair treatments and anti-dandruff lotions should be used to care for the scalp. These normalise the production of the sebaceous glands and support the skin’s acid mantle. The anti-dandruff ingredients remain on the scalp and can take effect there.
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