Glycation

Glycation refers to the saccharification of tissue fibres. It is essentially a reaction that always occurs when sugar molecules such as glucose or fructose combine with lipids or proteins without sufficient moderation by an enzyme.

A distinction is made between endogenous and exogenous glycation.

Exogenous glycation (glycation) generally occurs when sugar is cooked together with proteins. The effect is particularly pronounced at temperatures above 120 degrees Celsius. Scientists refer to the product of this reaction as advanced glycation end products (AGEs), which are mainly used in the food industry as colourings, to improve appearance and as flavour enhancers. For a long time, it was assumed that these AGEs had no harmful effects on our health. However, studies now indicate that the reaction products are involved in the development of various diseases.

Endogenous glycation takes place in the bloodstream of our body. If AGEs accumulate over a longer period of time, tissue and cells can be damaged, especially in conjunction with elevated blood sugar levels.

Glycation accelerates skin ageing

Over time, glycation can damage or even destroy the tissue of almost all organs. The advanced glycation end product (AGE) is responsible for arteriosclerosis and various eye damage and promotes numerous typical signs and diseases of ageing. Glycation also causes our skin to age.

The reason: sugar molecules attach themselves to collagen fibres, triggering a kind of caramelisation or hardening. The collagen fibres damaged in this way are no longer able to free themselves from the sugar and lose their suppleness over time. Our skin becomes drier and less flexible, it can no longer counteract the formation of wrinkles and appears slack. However, researchers have now made a groundbreaking discovery. They have discovered a way to initiate a process known as deglycation: the stiffening of the skin caused by glycation can therefore be reversed.

The magic word here is fructosamine-3-kinase, a key molecule that can stop and reverse the process of glycation (glycation) as early as the synthesis stage of the fibres. This molecule is abbreviated FN3K. With increasing age, the production of FN3K in the human body declines. The cosmetics industry has already developed active ingredients that can reactivate FN3K formation in the long term. In this context, an extract from the bay cedar tree is particularly noteworthy.

The Maillard reaction – as in cooking

In principle, the process of glycation is not considered harmless. It is even believed to be involved in the formation of acrylamide. This substance is strongly suspected of being carcinogenic and, in the long term, also mutagenic. It is produced during cooking, baking and roasting when carbohydrate-rich foods are heated to high temperatures. It is a by-product of the so-called browning reaction and is classified as very critical by the Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety. The browning reaction in the context of glycation is also known in specialist circles as the Maillard reaction. It affects the taste, texture and smell of many foods, such as coffee beans, biscuits, bread and toast, but also French fries and fried foods such as bacon.

Glycation in the skin

Under certain circumstances, a Maillard reaction also occurs in skin cells. This mainly affects the use of self-tanning products from tubes. The desired skin colouring achieved with self-tanning products is solely the result of a Maillard reaction. Similar to how fried meat gets its appetising brown colour, the Maillard reaction also gives the skin a brown tone. There is therefore a suspicion that self-tanning products may damage the genetic material. Although the addition of antioxidants can prevent cell damage to a certain extent, DNA damage cannot be completely ruled out. Glycation is therefore always a health concern, regardless of whether it is endogenous or exogenous.

However, there is a lot that people can do to mitigate or even prevent the consequences of glycation. The first step is to avoid excessive consumption of sweets and sugary foods. In addition, a healthy diet should always be followed.

We work with these active ingredients, which reduce the glycation process in the skin:

Reversing glycation

Thanks to advanced research, renowned scientists have succeeded in stopping or reversing the ageing process caused by glycation in combination with AGEs. Groundbreaking cosmetic products with special active ingredients ensure that FN3K formation is reactivated in the long term. Those who also follow a sugar-free and healthy diet are clearly doing something good for their skin and well-being.

Cosmacon develops innovative products for your brand to reduce glycation, which specifically target premature skin ageing caused by the ‘sugaring’ of skin structures. With special active ingredients that inhibit the formation of so-called AGEs (advanced glycation end products), we can create formulations that preserve skin elasticity and ensure a smoother, more youthful complexion. Just ask us – we will advise you comprehensively and develop tailor-made solutions for your brand.

In addition, our partner company Tojo Cosmetics GmbH has already successfully pre-developed numerous white label products. This means you can launch high-quality anti-glycation products on the market quickly and easily without long development times.

Literature:

• Prevention of skin aging by plant extracts acting on the glycation process EX VIVO; D. Bouzoud, L. Peno-Mazzarino, F. Arnold, E. Lati, M.T. Luu, M. Mercier; SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, New York, NY, December 2010
• Antiglycation effects of skincare active materials during a simulated glycation process on EX VIVO human skin; Korwin-Zmijowska, S. Doremus, L. Peno-Mazzarino, P. Gasser, B. Djian, E. Lati, F. Arnold, and M. Mercier; The Society for Investigative Dermatology Annual Meeting; Los Angeles, CA; May 2007
• Antiglycation Properties to skincare formulation; Gasser, E. Lati, F. Arnold, M. Luu, and M. Mercier; SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, New York, NY, December 2007
• Glycation induction and antiglycation activity of skin care ingredients on living human skin explants; P. Gasser, F. Arnold, L. Peno-Mazzarino, D. Bouzoud, M.T. Lu, E. Latin, M. Mercier; Int. Journal of Cosmetic. Science, 2011, 33, 366-370