Mandelic acid – the mild AHA

Mandelic acid, also known as alpha-hydroxyphenylacetic acid, is an aromatic carboxylic acid. Due to an asymmetric alpha-carbon atom, it forms two enantiomers, D-(-) and L-(+), also known as R- and S-mandelic acid. It occurs naturally as a white, crystalline solid.

It was first discovered when an extract of bitter almonds was heated with diluted hydrochloric acid.

Nowadays, it is also obtained industrially from benzaldehyde and hydrocyanic acid and then processed further in various medicines.

In an acidic environment, it is effective against streptococci, staphylococci and coliform bacteria.

Mandelic acid in cosmetics:

Mandelic acid is playing an increasingly important role in cosmetics. It was developed for sensitive skin that cannot tolerate alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).

It breaks down intracellular connections, stimulates collagen synthesis and activates cellular regeneration.

Mandelic acid also has keratolytic, skin-cleansing properties and a skin tone-regulating effect.

This results in many beneficial effects, including antibacterial action and improvement of skin ageing due to light exposure, abnormal pigmentation and skin tissue.

In most skin creams, it has an antiseptic and depigmenting effect. Mandelic acid is perfect for oily and sebaceous skin, and even very uneven skin becomes significantly calmer and smoother.

It also reduces hyperchromia, which is pigmentation caused by acne. It refines the appearance of pores and slows down light-induced skin ageing.

Product ideas with mandelic acid

Facial exfoliating serum (5–10% MS)

A mild chemical peel for sensitive skin. It gently removes dead skin cells. Refines the pores and provides more radiance.

Brightening facial toner (2–4% MS)

Ideal as a daily tonic for gentle exfoliation. Regulates excess sebum. Supports a more even complexion.

Acne Care Gel (5–8% MS, combined with niacinamide/zinc)

Has an antibacterial and sebum-regulating effect. Reduces blemishes and blackheads. Has an anti-inflammatory effect on blemished skin.

Anti-Ageing Night Cream (5% MS, combined with retinol or peptides)

Promotes cell renewal. Smoothes fine lines and prevents wrinkles. Supports skin elasticity.

Body lotion with mandelic acid (3–5%)

Gentle body scrub for smooth, supple skin. Helps with ingrown hairs or rough skin areas. Suitable for regular use.

Foot and hand care cream (5–10% MS + urea)

Removes calloused areas. Softens rough skin. Promotes a smooth and well-groomed surface.

💡 The advantage of mandelic acid compared to other AHA acids (e.g. glycolic acid) is its larger molecule size. This allows it to penetrate the skin more slowly and evenly and is considered particularly well tolerated, even for sensitive skin types.

Almond acid profile:

CAS No.: 90 – 64 – 2 ((RS) – almond acid); 611 – 71 – 2 ((R) – almond acid); 17199 – 29 – 0 ((S) – almond acid)

Other names: Hydroxyphenylacetic acid, phenylglycolic acid

Molecular formula: C8H8O3

Properties: They occur as colourless crystals

We like to work with these active ingredients containing mandelic acid:

Conclusion:

Mandelic acid is a very important acid for cosmetics, as it is a good alternative for sensitive skin that cannot tolerate AHAs. However, its effects are similar to those of alpha hydroxycarboxylic acids. It has a skin-cleansing and depigmenting effect. It also reliably reduces pigmentation caused by acne and improves the appearance of pores. If you are planning to expand your product line with mandelic acid, please feel free to contact us.

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