Carrageenan
Carrageenan is a versatile, natural ingredient extracted from certain types of red algae. Carrageenins has been used in the food industry for decades, but this raw material is now increasingly coming to the fore in cosmetics. Its special ability to bind water, alter textures and create a pleasant skin feel makes carrageenan an ideal additive for innovative formulations.
Interestingly, carrageenan is divided into three main types: kappa, iota and lambda carrageenan. Each type has specific properties that can be used in cosmetic products.
Kappa carrageenan
It is characterised by its ability to form strong gels. However, these gels are rather firm and brittle. By combining it with other polymers, however, its properties can be specifically modulated.
Structure: linear sulphate polysaccharide
Gel formation: It forms firm and brittle gels in the presence of potassium ions.
Properties in cosmetics: Gives creams and gels structure and ensures a stable consistency.
Advantages: good film formation, supports a pleasant skin feel, stabilises emulsions.
Kappa Carrageenins is often used in face masks, exfoliants and gel textures because it creates a clear, firm structure and improves the feel of the skin over time.
Iota carrageenan
Iota carrageenan is known for its ability to form soft and elastic gels. It provides a pleasant viscosity and a flexible texture.
Structure: linear polysaccharide with two sulphate groups per disaccharide unit
Gel formation: it forms soft, elastic gels in the presence of calcium ions.
Properties in cosmetics: gives products a smooth, silky texture and improves skin moisture.
Advantages: elastic film formation, skin-friendly consistency, optimal stability in emulsions.
Iota carrageenan is often found in moisturisers, serums and lotions, where it provides a luxurious texture while improving skin hydration.
Lambda carrageenan
Unlike the other two types, lambda carrageenins does not form gels. Instead, it acts as a highly effective thickening agent and emulsion stabiliser.
Structure: highly sulphated polysaccharides
Gel formation: It does not form gels, but highly viscous solutions.
Properties in cosmetics: Increases viscosity, stabilises formulations, moisturising effect.
Advantages: Ideal for use in lotions and sprays, improves spreadability and supports sensory properties.
Lambda carrageenan is particularly suitable for products that require a pleasant viscosity but no gel formation, such as face sprays or light fluids.
Cosmetic product ideas with carrageenan
The versatile properties of carrageenins can be used in numerous cosmetic applications. Particularly interesting are:
– Face masks and scrubs: Kappa type provides a clear, stable gel structure that is easy to apply and remove.
– Hydrogels and serums: Iota version improves skin moisture and gives a smooth, elastic texture – ideal for anti-ageing serums.
– Lotions and body milks: Lambda carrageenan acts as a natural thickener, increases viscosity and leaves the skin feeling silky smooth.
– After-sun and aftershave products: The film-forming properties soothe and protect the skin after stress or shaving.
– Hair gels and styling products: the kappa type provides the necessary structure, while iota carrageenan ensures flexibility.
– In sprays and fluids, lambda carrageenan stabilises a light, moisturising texture without leaving any residue.
Carrageenan is impressive not only because of its functionality and naturalness, but also because it enables microplastic-free formulations.
A natural raw material for modern cosmetics.
All three types of carrageenins offer versatile applications in cosmetics. They are naturally sourced, biodegradable and therefore an excellent alternative to synthetic polymers or microplastics. Whether as a gelling agent, viscosity regulator or moisturiser, carrageenan is a raw material with a future.
At Cosmacon, we develop innovative, microplastic-free cosmetic products based on carrageenins that enable natural textures and care experiences. Just ask us.
If you are looking for a quick entry into this growing market, you can benefit from our partner company Tojo Cosmetics GmbH. It has already developed numerous white label products with carrageenan, enabling an uncomplicated market entry.
Literature:
Carrageenan-Based Compounds as Wound Healing Materials. Neamtu B, Barbu A, Negrea MO, Berghea-Neamțu CȘ, Popescu D, Zăhan M, Mireșan V. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Aug 14;23(16):9117.