Active Ingredient Update 2025: The most exciting cosmetic raw materials
Introduction
The cosmetics market is changing rapidly: plant extracts, biotechnologically derived peptides and clever encapsulations are enabling completely new skincare experiences. Our ‘Active Ingredient Update 2025’ summarises the most promising innovations of 2025 to date, explains their origins, advantages and applications, and shows how they can be used in modern formulations.
Active Ingredient Update 2025 – DandErase
Occurrence & botany
DandErase™ is obtained from upcycled saffron (Crocus sativus) flowers. These delicate purple autumn bloomers grow to a height of only 10–30 cm, thrive in the Mediterranean region and normally provide the precious spice.
Production
A concentrate with a high flavonoid content is obtained from the petals using an aqueous glycerine extraction process. This process is sustainable as the stigmas have already been removed for the spice market.
Advantages & benefits
• Inhibits Malassezia yeasts as effectively as piroctone olamine.
• Soothes itching and strengthens the scalp barrier.
• Results after just three shampoo applications
Other applications: Leave-on tonics or dry anti-dandruff sprays.
Update 2025: Longevity complex (Megassane®, Revivyl™, Yogurtene® Balance, Chronoglow™).
Sources:
• Megassane®: Phaeodactylum tricornutum microalgae from coastal saltwater cultures
• Revivyl™: Summerwort (Orobanche rapum), a parasitic plant native to the Mediterranean region.
• Yogurtene® Balance: yoghurt ferment plus inulin from chicory roots
• Chronoglow™: ‘resurrection plant’ Haberlea rhodopensis from the Rhodope Mountains
Production & effects
Micro-flash drying or glycerite extraction preserve the sensitive phyto-molecules. The four active ingredients work as a team: protein homeostasis (Megassane®), accelerated skin renewal (Revivyl™), balanced microbiota (Yogurtene® Balance) and an epigenetic freshness boost (Chronoglow™). Ideal for serums, overnight masks or concentrates for skin cycling.
Active ingredient update 2025: Oximony®.
Extract from yellow loosestrife (Lysimachia christinae), which grows wild in the mountain forests of Sichuan and is FairWild certified. The polyphenols, saponins and the ‘longevity co-factor’ taurine it contains combat cell senescence, increase skin firmness and give a radiant complexion. Perfect for holistic well-aging lines.
Active ingredient update 2025 – Proteasyl®.
Hydrolysed pea protein provides over 400 defined peptides. In shampoos and conditioners (0.05%), it reduced hair loss in women by almost 50% within 12 weeks and soothed irritated scalps.
Active ingredient update 2025: Kerasylium™.
Upcycled extract from milk thistle seeds (Silybum marianum). Its peptide-rich matrix is similar to keratin and provides a ‘lash lift’ effect: thicker, shinier eyelashes and eyebrows within two weeks. A vegan alternative to animal keratin.
Active ingredient update 2025: AQStem Atacama and StemCem Quillay.
Two stem cell elixirs from extremely resilient plants: Cistanthe grandiflora from the Atacama Desert (aquaporin booster for instant moisture) and Quillaja saponaria tree cells (filaggrin stimulator for greater density). The perfect partners for climate-adaptive skincare products.
Active ingredient update 2025 – Hylasome™ EG 10: chemically cross-linked hyaluronic acid with an ‘infinite’ molecular weight.
Chemically cross-linked hyaluronic acid with an ‘infinite’ molecular weight. It forms an invisible gel network that binds water up to five times longer than conventional HA and also traps free radicals. For long-lasting dewy skin.
Active ingredient update 2025 – Hydrating Hair Active Combo
• Fision® HydraTress (quinoa and pea peptides + 7-fold HA): – Anti-frizz and improved wet combability.
• EssentiaTein® Protect (rice, baobab, amaranth): UV protection for cuticle proteins.
• PatcH₂O®: Biopolymer micro-moisture network soothes itchy scalp.
• HyaClear® 7: Deeply hydrating HA mix.
Together, they form a complete ‘roots-to-tips’ hydration cocktail.
Active ingredient update 2025: encapsulated UV filters and TRIsol™ KCP.
SUNSIL silica capsules distribute lipophilic filters evenly, even in the water phase, and ensure a lighter skin film and higher SPF (test: +6% in an SPF 50 formulation). TRIsol™ KCP (potassium cetyl phosphate) stabilises high-SPF emulsions, reduces TEWL and is solvent-free. Must-haves for modern, environmentally friendly sun care.
Active ingredient update 2025 – ALTER-Captessence.
A powder made from Breton kaolin and bamboo absorbs up to 20% perfume oil, does not clump and has a pleasant mattifying effect. It can be used to produce alcohol-free perfume powders or dry shampoos with a long-lasting fragrance.
Active ingredient profiles
• DandErase™ – INCI: Aqua, Betaine, Crocus Sativus Flower Extract; appearance: light brown liquid; water-soluble; use: 3%.
• Megassane®: INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract; light yellow, clear liquid; 0.3%.
• Revivyl™ – Propanediol, Orobanche Rapum Extract, dark orange liquid, 0.5%.
• Oximony® – Maltodextrin, Lysimachia christinae Extract, beige powder, 0.25%.
• Proteasyl® PW – Pisum Sativum Extract, cyclodextrin, beige powder, water-soluble, 0.05%.
• Kerasylium™ – INCI: maltodextrin, Silybum Marianum Seed Extract; appearance: light brown powder; use: 0.2%.
• AQStem Atacama – Cistanthe grandiflora callus extract …; light yellow liquid; 1–2%.
• StemCem Quillay – Quillaja Saponaria Callus Extract …; light yellow liquid; 2%.
• Hylasome™ EG 10: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, colourless gel, 1–5%.
• TRIsol™ KCP – Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, white-beige powder, 0.25–3%.
Conclusion
Our 2025 active ingredient update shows that the future of cosmetics lies in intelligently combined natural and high-tech raw materials that combine effectiveness, sustainability and excellent sensory properties.
We support brands in integrating precisely these active ingredients – from epigenetic saffron extract to water-dispersible UV filters – into tailor-made formulations.
The result is genuine value-added cosmetics that delight consumers and strengthen your brand in the long term. The Active Ingredient Update 2025 will be the success story of your next product generation!