L-Ascorbic Acid
L-ascorbic acid is also known under the name vitamin C. In the human body it is involved in very many processes and is therefore essential for life. Fruits and vegetables are the main suppliers, especially acerola berries, citrus fruits, parsley, peppers, kiwis, rose hips, broccoli, and cress. But also in potatoes, black currants, sauerkraut, Brussels sprouts, and peas is abundant vitamin C. A person must regularly supply the body with a sufficient amount of L-ascorbic acid, as it cannot be stored in the organism. For a healthy adult, a daily amount of 100 milligrams is recommended, children need a slightly lower amount (60 to 80 milligrams per day), and smokers, pregnant and lactating women have a higher requirement. Certain groups of people also generally require a larger amount of L-ascorbic acid. These include athletes and people who are exposed to severe mental or physical stress.
L-ascorbic acid was first isolated in 1927, but as early as the 18th century, the British navy supplemented the food supply at sea with lemon juice because it was discovered that citrus fruits could prevent the onset of scurvy.
L-ascorbic acid promotes the vital absorption of iron in the intestines and plays an important role in the formation of teeth, gums, connective tissue. and bones. It is also involved in various metabolic processes in the body.
Ascorbic acid: a deficiency often has serious consequences
L-ascorbic acid belongs to the so-called water-soluble vitamins, so an overdose is usually excreted in the urine. Side effects are only to be expected if very large quantities of food supplements containing vitamin C are taken. In the long run, this overtaxes the excretory organs. Abdominal cramps, nausea and diarrhea may occur. People who have kidney problems or gout must even expect kidney stones as a result of an overdose.
However, an undersupply of L-ascorbic acid can be much more dangerous. Symptoms of a deficiency include increased susceptibility to infection, loose teeth, joint and limb pain, poor wound healing, weakness and fatigue due to a general reduction in performance, and depression. In the worst case, it even leads to chronic lung damage, since the free radicals get out of hand and this results in a lasting disturbance of the oxygen exchange. The best-known deficiency symptom, however, is the already mentioned scurvy. The former seafarer’s disease is very rare today, however, in former times it led in most cases to death.
L-ascorbic acid in skin care
L-ascorbic acid plays an enormously important role not only in nutrition, but also in cosmetics. It has a triple effect against the dreaded skin aging. On the one hand, the vitamin can lighten unwanted pigment spots, on the other hand, it scavenges free radicals and has an antioxidant effect. In addition, it ultimately supports the formation of collagen. In a stronger concentration, the vitamin is also used keratolytically, which means that it then acts like a peeling. Manufacturers of high-quality cosmetic products have long since recognized the benefits of L-ascorbic acid. Many active ingredient-concentrates already contain up to 20 percent L-ascorbic acid, effectively improving the skin’s own collagen production and protecting the skin from harmful environmental and oxidative damage. By using such products, the complexion appears much clearer and fresher. Meanwhile, the vitamin can be found in very many areas of cosmetics. Whether day or night care, self-tanner, anti-age product or concentrated additional care for particularly stressed skin, L-ascorbic acid with its numerous positive properties is an optimal ingredient for sophisticated care products.
L-ascorbic acid is involved in the differentiation of skin cells. It stimulates the fibroblasts, the hydroxylation of the proline in the protein strands of the collagen molecule and stimulates the connective tissue metabolism. With this stimulation, mRNA expression of enzymes that produce collagen is promoted. In addition, collagen degradation is inhibited (by increasing collagenase inhibitor proteins). The degree of differentiation of ceramides also increases under vitamin C influence.
It is often combined with special other active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and aloe vera. We also like to use vitamin C in combination with tocopherols (vitamin E). In this combination, L-ascorbic acid can regenerate the depleted tocopherol and a longer antioxidant protection time is thus possible.
Fact Sheet Vitamin C
Alternative names: L-ascorbic acid, antiscorbutic vitamin (obsolete), 3-oxo-L-gulonic acid-γ-lactone.
CAS number: 50-81-7
Nature: odorless, crystalline, white powder
Melting point: 190 to 192 degrees Celsius
Solubility: highly soluble in water
Molecular Formula: C6H8O6
Physiological function: antioxidant effect, radical scavenger, coenzyme for prolyl-4-hydroxylase
L-ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations
Meanwhile, L-ascorbic acid is one of the most important vitamins for healthy skin function. It contributes to the formation and maintenance of connective tissue function and is tremendously important for wound healing. In the long term, connective tissue even becomes brittle if the body is not sufficiently supplied with the vitamin.
In principle, fat-soluble vitamins penetrate the skin better, since water-soluble vitamins are immediately transported away. Today, however, vitamin C is incorporated into cosmetic products in such a way that it can nevertheless develop its effect optimally. This is ensured, for example, by other substances that protect the vitamin. Airtight aluminum tubes also help to ensure that the vitamin retains its effectiveness.
The concentration of L-ascorbic acid in high-quality cosmetic products should be at least two percent. Users need hardly expect side effects; in rare cases, a strong concentration can cause mild skin irritation.
We use an effective L-ascorbic acid ester (otherwise vitamin C quickly degrades in aqueous preparations and the entire formulation becomes yellowish-brownish) and in two-phase products also pure L-ascorbic acid. There is also the possibility of using dehydro-L-ascorbic acid, which is then converted to L-ascorbic acid in the body.
We like to work with this raw material containing vitamin C:
| Trade Name | Company Name | INCI | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ascorbic Acid | COSROMA | Ascorbic Acid | |
| Ascorbic Acid | Alpha Environmental | Ascorbic Acid | |
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Gfn-Selco | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL CO., LTD. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | COSROMA | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Vital-Chem Zhuhai Co.,Ltd. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| Quali C - Ascorbic Acid | DSM Personal Care | Ascorbic Acid | |
| Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside | Vital-Chem Zhuhai Co.,Ltd. | Ascorbyl Glucoside | |
| 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid | Hubei Artec Biotechnology Co., Ltd. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| Brillian-MB268: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Beijing Brilliance Bio | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| Quali C - Ascorbic Acid Fine Powder | DSM Personal Care | Ascorbic Acid | |
| 3-O-ETHYL-L-ASCORBIC ACID | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| SpecWhite VCE | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| SpecWhite VC | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | Ascorbic Acid | |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Gfn-Selco | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| EAA | Hangzhou Rebtech Novel Material Co., Ltd. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| AC-VCE | SOHO ANECO Chemicals Co., Limited | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| Gwhite VCE | Shanghai JAKA(GREAF) Biotech Co., Ltd. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Water | |
| Golden C | Infinitec | Water, Sorbitol, Xanthan Gum, Ascorbic Acid, Colloidal Gold | |
| Ascorbyl Isostearate | Gfn-Selco | Ascorbyl Isostearate | |
| SpecWhite AI | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | Ascorbyl Isostearate | |
| Et-VC | Corum Inc. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| PromaCare EAA | Uniproma | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| PromaCare MAP | Uniproma | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Amitose 2GA | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Glyceryl Ascorbate | |
| L-Hexuron | McKinley Resources Incorporated | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| IP-VC | Corum Inc. | Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate | |
| Only VCE | Onlystar Bio-Technology Co., Ltd | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| SAP | Hangzhou Rebtech Novel Material Co., Ltd. | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| iVIT ETHYL C | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| VitaCE 990 | Chemland Co., Ltd. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| MAP | Hangzhou Rebtech Novel Material Co., Ltd. | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| LUCEMINE | SOLLICE BIOTECH | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| SinoWhite EA | SUNFINE GLOBAL Co., Ltd. | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| EcoCare MAP | Ecochem Specialities Ltd. | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Ascorbyl Glucoside | Hubei Artec Biotechnology Co., Ltd. | Ascorbyl Glucoside | |
| Natpure Xfine Beetroot BR312 | SENSIENT BEAUTY | Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Maltodextrin | |
| Ascorbyl Glucoside | Gfn-Selco | Ascorbyl Glucoside | |
| Natori Vita Complex HD (C) | Ecoori | Biotin, Panthenol, Thiamine HCl, Cyanocobalamin, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine, Folic Acid, Menadione, Bioflavonoids, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glutathione, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water | |
| Sodium Ascorbate | COSROMA | Sodium Ascorbate | |
| Tyrostat 11 | Lucas Meyer Cosmetics | Water, Glycerin, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Ascorbic Acid | |
| Amitose MGA | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Myristyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Butylene Glycol | |
| Flora-Leen | Minasolve | Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract, Water, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbic Acid | |
| AHA Concentrate B | Crodarom | Water, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Gluconic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Tartaric Acid | |
| Oxynex L-CV Liquid | Merck KGaA | Alcohol, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid | |
| VitaCFL MAP | Jiangsu High Hope International Group Sunshine Chemical Corporation | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| MYRAMAZE | Rahn AG | Propanediol, Water (Aqua), Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid | |
| EM Powder (300) | Kewpie Corp. Japan | Egg Shell Membrane Powder | |
| Amitose HGA | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Hexyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Water | |
| PromaCare AGS | Uniproma | Ascorbyl Glucoside | |
| Dragon Fruit Herbasol Extract PG, unpreserved, system 3 | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Propylene Glycol, Water, Sorbitol, Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid | |
| VitaCFLSAP | Jiangsu High Hope International Group Sunshine Chemical Corporation | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Sandream Specialties | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Amitose 3LGA | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate, Butylene Glycol | |
| Cosphaderm AP RSPO/MB | Cosphatec GmbH | Ascorbyl Palmitate | |
| PromaCare VCP (USP33) | Uniproma | Ascorbyl Palmitate | |
| SAP-Hexuron | McKinley Resources Incorporated | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| T-Hexuron | McKinley Resources Incorporated | Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate | |
| ILLUMISCIN | Rahn AG | Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Ascorbic Acid | |
| Green Tea LC Herbasol Extract PG, Unpreserved, System 3 | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Propylene Glycol, Water, Sorbitol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbic Acid | |
| Anti Wrinkles Complex | Greentech | Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Cupressus Sempervirens Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Niacin, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid | |
| Neosome OL EAA | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | |
| SpecWhite AP | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | Ascorbyl Palmitate | |
| Bicowhite Complex | Bicosome SL | Aqua, Lecithin, Lysolecithin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Niacinamide, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Bisabolol, Phytic Acid | |
| Amitose 3GA | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Water | |
| RAYOLYS D | Greentech | Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid | |
| AA2G | NAGASE & CO., LTD. | Ascorbyl Glucoside | |
| Amitose DGA | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Water | |
| PROTEOLEA | Rahn AG | Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Fructan, Decyl Glucoside, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ziziphus Jujuba Seed Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid | |
| Ascorbyl Glucoside | COSROMA | Ascorbyl Glucoside | |
| Ascorbyl Palmitate | COSROMA | Ascorbyl Palmitate | |
| Sharon Biomix Free II | Sharon Laboratories Ltd | Phenylpropanol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Aqua | |
| Sharon Biomix Free C | Sharon Laboratories Ltd | Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Sinensis Peel Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid | |
| Sharon Biomix Free I | Sharon Laboratories Ltd | Phenethyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Aqua | |
| Sharon Biomix Pure II | Sharon Laboratories Ltd | Phenethyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Peel Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Aqua | |
| Sharon Biomix Pure I | Sharon Laboratories Ltd | Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Peel Extract, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Aqua | |
| VcOS | SOHO ANECO Chemicals Co., Limited | Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate | |
| PromaCare TAB | Uniproma | Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate | |
| SpecWhite ATP | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate | |
| Gwhite VC-IP | Shanghai JAKA(GREAF) Biotech Co., Ltd. | Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate | |
| VitaSynol C – Stable Lipophilic Vitamin C Ester | Sytheon | Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate | |
| iVIT C TIP | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate | |
| SpecWhite SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | COSROMA | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| iVIT AAP | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| AC-SAP | SOHO ANECO Chemicals Co., Limited | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Vital-Chem Zhuhai Co.,Ltd. | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Brillian-MB300: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Beijing Brilliance Bio | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| STAY-C 50 | DSM Personal Care | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Vitagen | Macrocare Tech Co., Ltd. | Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| iVit Glucoside C | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Ascorbyl Glucoside | |
| iVit SAP | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Alpha Environmental | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| PromaCare SAP | Uniproma | Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Ascorbyl PM | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| OLI-2198 Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Shanghai Oli Enterprises Co.,Ltd | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| AC-MAP | SOHO ANECO Chemicals Co., Limited | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | Gfn-Selco | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | COSROMA | Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| ROVISOME ACE NG | Evonik – Personal Care | Glycerin, Water, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate | |
| LPD’s Lightening (PF) | Infinitec | Aqua, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Lecithin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum | |
| CarriVect 3: Nutritive Powdered Liposomes | NanoVec | Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | |
| Carrivect 2: Antioxidant Powdered Liposomes (with Resveratrol) | NanoVec | Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Resveratrol | |
| LIP-91: Multivitamin Liposomes | NanoVec | Water, Phospholipids, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholecalciferol, Benzoic Acid | |
| BeauPlex VH | DSM Personal Care | Niacinamide, Calcium Pantothenate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine HCl, Maltodextrin, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Silica | |
| CarriVect 7: Antioxidant Powdered Liposomes with Biotin | NanoVec | Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Resveratrol, Biotin | |
| LPD’s Multivitamin (PF-WP) | Infinitec | Aqua, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum | |
| CarriVect 5: Revitalizing Powdered Liposomes | NanoVec | Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone | |
| Vitamin C Oil Blend | Botanic Innovations | Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate |
Conclusion: L-ascorbic acid is a real all-rounder
Not only the inside of our body, but also the skin is in urgent need of vitamin C. It protects against dangerous free radicals and has an antioxidant effect. No wonder it is increasingly included in high-quality cosmetics: L-ascorbic acid is very well tolerated, has almost only benefits, but virtually no side effects. Cosmacon will be happy to develop appropriate formulations with vitamin C and its derivatives for you according to your wishes.
Sources:
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Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial.; Rattanawiwatpong P, Wanitphakdeedecha R, Bumrungpert A, Maiprasert M.J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Mar;19(3):671-676.
Advances in dermatology using DNA aptamer „Aptamin C“ innovation: Oxidative stress prevention and effect maximization of vitamin C through antioxidation.; Choi S, Han J, Kim JH, Kim AR, Kim SH, Lee W, Yoon MY, Kim G, Kim YS.J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Apr;19(4):970-976.
The Anti-Ageing and Whitening Potential of a Cosmetic Serum Containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid.; Zerbinati N, Sommatis S, Maccario C, Di Francesco S, Capillo MC, Rauso R, Herrera M, Bencini PL, Guida S, Mocchi R.Life (Basel). 2021 Apr 29;11(5):406.
Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies;. Escobar S, Valois A, Nielsen M, Closs B, Kerob D.; Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Apr;43(2):131-135