ABC of peptides

Hexapeptides, little proteins

Peptides are a real fountain of youth increasing gaining importance in cosmetics.

They give the cells the signal to regenerate and trigger body-own repair mechanisms. According to the number and sequence of the amino acids and perhaps other molecules, they have manifold, specific effects.

They are very safe to skin and easy to combine with other cosmetic active ingredients.

In the following ABC of peptides, we describe compounds which, thanks to their specific mechanisms can be used for targeted purposes in cosmetics.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH ANTI-WRINKLE EFFECT

Besides the wrinkle-reducing and anti-aging effects, the described peptides have the advantage that they are safer, gentler and more affordable than botulism and achieve more sustainable effects with regular use.

  • Dipeptide diaminobutyrol benzylamide diacetate

It is based on a synthetic tripeptide mimicking the action of Waglerin 1, a substance found in snake poison. This peptide reduces wrinkles and signs of aging.

  • Acetyl octapeptide-1 · Acetyl hexapeptide-3(8)

Both peptides modulate the synthesis of the SNARE complex so that the vesicle does not release neurotransmitter. By inhibiting muscle contraction, the formation of lines and wrinkles is prevented.

  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-30

The compound targets the agrin/MuSK post-synaptic pathway and acts as an antagonist of muscle-specific kinase at the agrin-binding site. Thereby, muscle contraction is minimized and expression wrinkles are reduced.

  • Pentapeptid-18

This peptide prevents the formation of lines and wrinkles by inhibiting muscle contraction of facial expression, decreasing neuron excitability and modulating acetylcholine secretion. It can be used as a synergist for Acety-Hexapeptide-3.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH SKIN-REPAIRING EFFECT

The described peptides have skin-repairing properties and can be used in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle products for face and body.

  • Carnosine

This anti-aging peptide inhibits glycating. As a strong anti-oxidant, it neutralizes free radicals.

  • Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3

As a signaling substance, this peptide stimulates the synthesis of collagen and other dermal matrix components. It stimulates skin’s regeneration processes and reduces the appearance of wrinkles without negatives effects on skin barrier.

  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Its amino acid sequence imitates body’s own mechanism to produce collagen via TGF-β.

It stimulates collagen synthesis and decreases global wrinkle formation. Moreover, it has skin-firming and hydrating properties.

  • Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

This peptide improves dermal elastin performance and stimulates fibroblasts’ mobility.  Thereby, it boosts skin’s firmness, suppleness and tone.

  • Hexapeptide-9

This peptide smooths and firms skin and reduces visible wrinkles by stimulating synthesis of dermal proteins, such as collagen I and III. In addition, it strengthens the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) by boosting laminin-5, intergrin and collagen IV.

It can be used also for acne scar treatment.

  • Copper Peptide

Copper peptide is able to significantly reduce visible wrinkles and protects skin from photo-aging. It improves firmness and elasticity of skin tissue and can help to clarify and even complexion.

  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 · Palmitoyl Tripeptide-7

Both peptides are matrikines acting as messengers of restructuring and repairing the skin. They cause significant increases in collagen and matrix components.

  • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

The peptide improves skin firmness and appearance. It stimulates synthesis of syndocan-1 promoting the adhesion of epidermis.

  • Pentapeptide-31

The peptide supports cell regeneration and can improve synthesis of collagen I in the dermis.

  • Tripeptide-1

The peptide stimulates the synthesis of components of the extra-cellular matrix (collagen I and III, fibronectin, elastin, laminin), reduces wrinkles and promotes skin firmness.

  • Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-6

The peptide supports skin’s repair processes, reduces senescence of skin and stimulates regeneration of the dermis.

  • Tripeptide-10 Citrullin

The peptide is able to insert itself into collagen fibrils and to stabilize them. Thereby, it boosts firmness and elasticity of skin.

  • Hexapeptide-10

By stimulating the synthesis of laminin and intergrin alpha-6, the peptide strengthens cellular cohesion. The improvement of cellular adhesion to the basement membrane and among themselves promotes skin’s metabolism, nourishment and density.

  • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

The peptide stimulates the synthesis of the matrix protein lumican and dermal regeneration processes, resulting in firmer skin.

  • Coprooyl Tetrapeptide-3

The peptide boosts the production of key components of dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), like collagen VII, laminin-5 and fibronectin, essential for optimal skin structure. Within 28 days only, it achieves a significant reduction of visible lines and wrinkles.

  • Hexapeptide-11

The peptide enhances collagen production and promotes development of blood vessels.

It reduces lines and depth of wrinkles.

  • Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8 · Myristoyl Pentapeptide-11 · Myristoyl Hexapeptide-4 · Myristoyl Octapeptide-1

These peptides stimulate the synthesis of matrix proteins, enhance elasticity and firmness of skin, repair minor lines and promote cell renewal.

  • Heptapeptide

The laminin-5-like peptide strengthens skin’s cohesion and dermal-epidermal junction

(DEJ).

  • Tripeptide-3

The energy-boosting peptide raises the ATP level and revitalizes aging skin. It improves the differentiation of epidermal cells and can help to smooth cellulite-prone skin.

  • Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyloyl Hydroxythreonine · Palmitoyl Dipeptide-6 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

These peptides interact with key proteins of the skin. They improve structures, functions and communication processes in the skin. They significantly stimulate intergrin, laminin V, collagen IV, VII and XVII.

  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

This peptide is used to repair and strengthens lip skin. It improves its inner and outer structure and positively influences lip contours and volume. It enhances hydration and softness and prevents moisture loss and signs of aging.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH MOISTURE-PRESERVING EFFECT

  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

This peptide raises the level of aquaporin AQP-3 in keratinocytes. It improves skin hydration.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES TO REDUCE EYEBAGS

  • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Thanks to its draining effect, this peptide reduces puffiness in the eye area within 15 days.

It decreases the permeability of lymphatic vessels and thus reduces liquid accumulation in eyebags.

  • Dipeptide-2

This peptide promotes lymphatic circulation, and thereby helps to reduce eyebags and to smooth skin.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH ANTI-INFLAMMATORY / ANTI-ALLERGIC EFFECTS

  • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15

The peptide soothes sensitive skin, normalizes its tolerance threshold for environmental stressors and reduces skin’s tendency to react to skincare in inadequate, irritated ways. It decreases the excitability of the nerve endings in the skin.

  • Acetyl Dipeptide-3 Aminohexanoate

The peptide reinforces skin’s immune system and health. It supports skin’s direct defenses as the border with outer environment and lowers its proneness to infections.

  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

The biomimetic peptide is derived from a neuromediator that has soothing and calming effects on skin stressed by UV rays, immune reactions or mechanical factors. It helps to normalize skin’s sensitivity threshold.

  • Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

With its reinforcing effect on skin’s tolerance to environmental stressors, the peptide soothes skin tensions contributing to the formation of expression lines and wrinkles. By regulating the reaction to adverse stimuli, it supports skin’s relaxation and well-being. In addition, it boosts the synthesis of elastic fibers.

  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-49

This peptide soothes neurogenic inflammations by regulating the activity of the PAR-2 receptor. It strengthens natural skin barrier, calms itch of extremely sensitive skin and helps to restore its physiological resistance.

  • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-33

This peptide inhibits inflammatory reactions by reducing the release of the interleukins IL-6 and IL-8 triggered by overactivation of the antimicrobial peptide LL-37. It reduced cell damages and the destructive effects of inflammatory processes.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH ANTI-ACNE EFFECT

  • Myritoyl Hexapaptide-23

This antibacterial peptide for infect defense is designed to attach to several strains of bacteria, e.g., propioni bacterium acnes, and to destroy them.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH WHITENING-EFFECT

  • Nonapeptide-1

This peptide acts as an antagonist to the melanin-stimulating hormone α-MSH. It competes on the specific receptor, thus preventing any further activation of tyrosinase and blocking melanin synthesis. It reduces irregular pigmentation, dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

  • Tetrapeptide-27

The peptide diminishes hyperpigmented spots and promotes an even and regular skin tone. It influences the communication of keratinocytes and melanocytes by an indirect mechanism.

  • Tetrapeptide-30

This peptide diminishes dark spots and evens out skin pigmentation. It brightens skin tone and, in addition, has anti-inflammatory effects.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH SLIMMING UND BREAST-LIFTING EFFECTS

  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-39

The peptide controls the differentiation of preadipocytes and inhibits the accumulation of fat in adipose tissue by decreasing PGC-1a. It is suitable to be used in anti-cellulite and slimming products.

  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-38

This peptide stimulates the expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma co-activator 1α (PGC-1α) enhancing adipogenesis rate. The result is an increased accumulation of lipids and volume growth in the desired area, e.g., breast and cheeks.

  • Pentapeptid-25

The amino acid sequence of this peptide is similar to a sequence of uncoupling proteins, which, as mitochondrial transporters allow the release of energy in form of heat. It is suitable to be used in slimming and anti-cellulite products.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES WITH UV PROTECTION EFFECT

  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

As an agonist of α-MSH, this peptide activates MC1-R to stimulates melanin synthesis, while at the same time, it inhibits the expression of biochemical inflammation mediators, such as

IL-1, IL-8 and RANTES. It protects against UV-induced sunburn.

  • Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

This peptide inhibits enzymatic activity of elastase and MMP-1. It protects skin against UV rays, pollutants and signs of aging.

  • Hexapeptide-42

This peptide reinforces skin’s own UV protection and prevents signs of aging. It rapidly boosts the expression of caspase-14 for filaggrin production. If the peptide is applied to skin prior to exposure to UV rays, fewer cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers (UV-induced DNA damages) are produced in skin cells.

  • Diaminopropionyl Tripeptide-33

This peptide protects DNA and proteins against damages directly or indirectly caused by

UV rays, and thereby prevent skin aging. It neutralizes the cytotoxic 4-HNE, thereby protecting against oxidative damages by lipid peroxidation.

 

ABC OF PEPTIDES TO PROMOTE THE GROWTH OF HAIR, EYELASHES AND EYEBROWS

  • Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

This peptide reduces hair loss and increases hair production. It has positive effects on hair follicles, improves micro-circulation of scalp, delays follicle aging and atrophy of hair follicles caused by dihydrotestosterone.

  • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

This peptide repairs follicle cells, stimulates hair growth and, in particular, promotes thicker and longer eyebrows.

  • Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16 ·Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

These peptides stimulate the growth of eyelashes and keratin synthesis.

 

Peptides have become indispensable performance ingredients in high-quality cosmetics. We know them very well and have already formulated very effective products with which outstanding skin improvements have been achieved. Actually, they are no longer cosmetic products, but problem solvers. Feel free to contact us if you would also like to have such products developed for your brand.

 

Literature

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Clinical Efficacy and Safety of Non-Cross-Linked Hyaluronic Acid Combined with L-carnosine for Horizontal Neck Wrinkles Treatment.

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Bioactive peptides from broccoli stems strongly enhance regenerative keratinocytes by stimulating controlled proliferation.

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