Xanthan
Xanthan gum is also used in numerous products in the cosmetics industry: for example, in lotions, creams, shampoos, liquid soap, toothpaste and mascara. It is virtually indispensable when it comes to creating high-quality stable surfactant emulsions with a high water content.
Xanthan gum can fulfil seven different functions in the respective products.
- the additive is binding, i.e. it ensures the cohesion of cosmetic formulations containing powders
- it is emulsifying and promotes the formation of emulsions of otherwise immiscible liquids by influencing the interfacial tension.
- it is emulsion-stabilising, i.e., it improves emulsion stability and durability.
- it gives the consistency of a gel to what is actually a liquid texture.
- it is skin nourishing and helps to keep the skin in a good condition.
- it contributes to an optimal and even distribution during application.
- it increases (or decreases) the viscosity of cosmetic products.
Xanthan gum is biodegradable, gluten-free and tasteless. In addition, the solutions are largely temperature-independent.
Like all consistency enhancers based on sugar-like structures, xanthan gum also binds moisture. The substance reduces transepidermal water loss so that the skin is prevented from drying out. Therefore, a combination of moisture-binding substances such as urea or glycerin with xanthan gum is recommended in dry, cold weather.
Since xanthan gum has an extremely high molecular weight compared to many other emulsifiers, it cannot be absorbed into the horny layer of the skin. Possible skin irritations are therefore virtually excluded.
Xanthan gum has almost no side effects. In very high doses it can have a laxative effect, but this only applies to its use in food.
In its pure form, xanthan gum looks like flour or icing sugar. There are now several different qualities on the market, which differ in particle size, swelling capacity and the appearance of the gels produced.
In principle, xanthan gum is salt- and alcohol-compatible and pH-resistant. For pure gels, concentrations of 1.0 to 1.5 percent are common, in surfactant-based products the concentration is usually 0.8-1.0 percent. As a thickener and stabiliser in emulsions, concentrations of 0.2 to 0.5 percent are recommended.
For vegan products, a special quality must be purchased, usually with the addition “VEG”. During purification, xanthan gum is typically clarified via egg white and is therefore not suitable for vegan products in the standard quality.
Xanthan Gum Fact Sheet
Alternative names: E 415 or Xanthan
CAS number: 11138-66-2
Physical state: solid
Monomers/partial structures: glucose, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, mannose
Brief description: Polysaccharide
Function: Gel former
Xanthan gum: versatile, vegan and harmless
The naturally occurring polysaccharide xanthan gum is a very versatile natural thickener that many cosmetic products cannot do without. It is a perfect viscosity regulator in creams and lotions, shampoos, washing lotions, shower and shaving gels, hair gels, deodorant roll-ons and conditioners. Xanthan solutions basically behave like pseudoplastic, i.e., they are highly viscous at rest, but become flowable as soon as they are pumped, shaken, poured or stirred. Depending on the area of application, the cosmetics industry uses different types of xanthan gum whose solutions differ in texture and appearance. Xanthan gum standard, a beige-coloured and finely granulated powder, forms a gel with a pudding-like consistency. Xanthan gum transparent, on the other hand, forms a very clear and smooth-flowing gel.
Literature
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