Skin’s internal clock
Skin’s internal clock
Our skin’s internal clock is an internal clock that is controlled by clock genes. Certain processes are mainly active during the day, others at night. This internal skin clock is important to consider when choosing cosmetic care products and active ingredients.
The transepidermal water loss increases in the evening and at night, while sebum formation decreases and reaches its lowest point around four in the morning, only to peak at midday.
The fact that the skin is more permeable at night is a fact that allows us to take a different view of night care. In the past, it was recommended to use a richer night care product. Today, we know that products not only work more intensively at night due to the increased permeability, but are also more likely to lead to undesirable side effects. For example, retinol should be used at night in lower concentrations to achieve the same results as with higher concentrations in the morning.
The term ‘dark repair’ was once used to describe the skin’s ability to repair its cells at night.
Today we know that DNA repair in the cells is in full swing in the early hours of the morning because the synthesis of the enzyme 8-oxoguanine-DNA glycosylase (OGG1) is then triggered and provided by specific circadian clock genes.
Lifestyle is important
However, our lifestyle can severely disrupt the skin’s internal clock.
Studies show that night work has a reducing influence on circadian gene expression and the resulting impairment of the skin cells’ independent DNA regeneration. One consequence is that the skin of people who work night shifts is more sensitive to UV rays.
Our skin’s internal clock is a system deeply rooted in the brain that does not adapt, but we can support it with cosmetic active ingredients.
Meanwhile, there are special active ingredients that can restore or support the skin’s internal clock.
Melatonin as a timer
The neurohormone melatonin helps the skin to adjust to its day-night rhythm. Melatonin synthesis increases in the dark, while bright light reduces it.
High melatonin levels correlate with sleep quality and also with hair growth, wound healing and even anti-tumour activity.
Melatonin production increases about two hours before we go to bed (provided we exclude the influence of stress) and reaches its peak about two to three hours after we go to bed.
The antioxidant effect of melatonin has now been well documented by many studies.
It is used as a dietary supplement for its antioxidant and immune-boosting effects. In cosmetics, the new active ingredient also scores points for its antioxidant effect and as a radical scavenger. Further benefits include support for skin cell regeneration and anti-inflammatory effects. It also contributes to the skin’s UV protection and can reduce pigment spots.
It is particularly recommended for night care to follow the skin’s internal clock and to support the nightly recovery and repair functions.
INCI: Melatonin
CAS No.: 73-31-4
Chemical Name: N-(2-(5-Methoxyindol-3-yl)acetamide
Properties: white crystalline powder, melting point at 116-120°C
Lespedeza Capitata and the Clock Genes
Clariant has developed an active agent under the name Beta-Circadin, which is supposed to synchronise the circadian rhythms of skin cells and bring the skin’s internal clock back into line. This active agent is based on an extract of the South Korean plant Lespedeza Capitata. It is said to influence the expression of clock genes in the skin with its flavonoids carlinoside and isoscaptoside.
It has a resynchronising effect on the genes Bmal-1, Per and Cry, which, in addition to the Clock gene, are involved in the regulation of circadian rhythms and for whose discovery the Nobel Prize in Physiology/Medicine was awarded in 2017. Their expression is disrupted by stress, jet lag or blue light. It helps to rebalance the skin’s biological clock, strengthens the skin barrier and supports processes that follow the skin’s internal clock, including the nocturnal activity of aquaporins for better skin moisturisation and collagen formation, leading to a younger, fresher complexion.
INCI: Propanediol, Aqua, Lespedaza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract
Rice & Rosemary balance the skin’s internal clock.
The active ingredient, developed by the Swiss laboratory Rahn and sold under the brand name Celligent, is based on rice and rosemary extracts. It improves the skin’s barrier properties and healing processes and can help the skin of people who sleep poorly, work at night or frequently experience jet lag.
When the skin’s internal clock is disrupted, it can react with dryness, excess sebum production, rashes.
The active ingredient provides cell and DNA protection and rebalances skin’s internal clock.
INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ethyl Ferulate, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Tocopherol
The glacier bacterium for nocturnal regeneration
The metabiotic agent from the Swiss Mibelle laboratory (trade name Ice Awake) uses fermented succinic acid from the extremophile glacier bacterium Iodobacter. It is thought to influence the skin’s timing by activating the expression of chaperone protein genes, which are responsible for the three-dimensional stacking of collagen in the dermis. This nocturnal regeneration process is disrupted by disturbances in the skin’s timing and is a major cause of the loss of skin elasticity associated with sleep deprivation and sleep disorders.
In clinical studies on people with poor sleep quality and hectic lifestyles, the active ingredient rejuvenated the skin’s appearance, reduced wrinkle depth, and increased the skin’s radiance, freshness and energy.
In vitro, increased ATP formation was demonstrated.
INCI: Succinic Acid, Maltodextrin, Aqua
Probiotic from the depths of the ocean
The probiotic from the Lipotrue laboratory (trade name: Sirtalice) comes from the depths of the Indian Ocean. It has been shown to effectively stimulate the nightly energy synthesis of the mitochondria in skin cells. A significant firming effect was observed after just 15-20 minutes. The restoration of the nightly energy processes is thought to help synchronise the skin’s internal clock.
The vegan, maritime, biotechnological active ingredient gives the skin new energy, acts as a lifting agent and reduces crow’s feet/eye wrinkles.
INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Bacillus Ferment
Vitamin B3 for longevity
Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, is being rediscovered as a trendy active ingredient.
It can demonstrably activate the expression of longevity proteins (sirtuins) and thus restore the cellular DNA during the night.
Niacinamide is very well absorbed by the skin, supports the formation of lipids and ceramides, strengthens the skin barrier, has an antioxidant effect, improves the skin’s moisture-binding capacity, regulates the sebaceous gland function, and reduces dark circles and wrinkles around the eyes.
INCI: Niacinamide
CAS No.: 98-92-0
Description: water-soluble vitamin
Effect: precursor of the coenzymes NADH and NADPH, which stimulate cell metabolism and are involved in many biochemical processes that control important skin functions (such as DNA repair, antioxidant protection, cell renewal)
Soya at night
Soya keeps surprising us with properties that are being revealed by new techniques. The soya glycoproteins can be isolated from soya protein by biofermentation. They support the nocturnal synthesis of type I collagen, which is predominant in young skin but whose formation slows down dramatically with sleep disorders.
INCI: Glycine Soja Protein
CAS No.: 9010-10-0
Cosmetics in sync with the skin
Our modern lifestyle is characterised by a hectic pace, light from all possible sources around the clock, so to speak a life against our internal clock, and makes it difficult for our skin to follow its biological rhythms that have been developed over thousands of years. Modern cosmetics are finding ways and active ingredients that help the skin to perform its nightly recovery functions and to maintain a radiant, youthful appearance for a long time.
Cosmacon tracks down innovative active ingredients that support the skin’s internal clock and integrates them into modern formulations. Talk to us.
Literature:
Tuft C, Matar E, Menczel Schrire Z, Grunstein RR, Yee BJ, Hoyos CM.Clin Interv Aging. 2023 Jan 12;18:49-59
Population-level rhythms in human skin with implications for circadian medicine.
Wu G, Ruben MD, Schmidt RE, Francey LJ, Smith DF, Anafi RC, Hughey JJ, Tasseff R, Sherrill JD, Oblong JE, Mills KJ, Hogenesch JB.Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. 2018 Nov 27;115(48):12313-12318