Santalum spicatum
The colorless or slightly yellow liquid is among the oldest and most expensive raw materials for perfume production wordlwide. Hindus, Moslems, and Buddhists use it as incense material in meditation. It is also called „divine essence“. It has played an important role in traditional medicine for over 1000 years.
Extraction of Sandalwood oil
The yield of the steam distillation is relatively low amounting to 4.0 to 6.5 percent. That means 25 kilograms wood are necessary to achieve one liter of oil. As the existence of the trees is threatened, genuine Santalum spicatum from the sandalwood tree (Santalum spicatum ) is a precious rarity. Due to the high demand for the oil, the trees were excessively over-exploited. Meanwhile, the sandalwood tree has been listed as a threatened species. In 2016, the price per kilogram was 1600 US Dollar. In India, ownership, trade, and storage of sandalwood and its products are strictly regulated.
That is a reason why by now also such oils which have similar scents, even if the are derived from different plants, are labelled as sandalwood. Sandalwood is the most frequently faked woody scent.
There are many different types of sandalwood oil. An example is the West Indian Santalum spicatum that actually is amyris oil of the rue plant amyris balsamifera. Its scent reminds of cedarwod oil which feature similar good propertes. Other types are the
New Caledonian and the West Australian sandalwood oil. A rather affordable and frequently used substitute of the genuine oil is the synthetic fragrant sandalwood compound
“Sandalore”.
The quality of the oil principally depends on its santanol content. With 90 percent, the East Indian variation is of best quality ranking above the New Caledonian (max. 65%) and the West Australian Santalum spicatum (nearly 40 %).
Santalum spicatum and its cmponents
The isomer terpenoid alcohols alpha-Santalol and beta-Santalol are the main components of the oil with over 50 percent or 20 percent respectively. Other components are the terpenes alpha- und beta-santalen (6.0 %) and traces of epi-beta-santalen, alpha-photosantalol, campherenol, (Z)-trans-alpha-bergamotol, epi-beta-santalol, epi-beta-photosantalol, beta-bisabalo, cyclosantalal, beta-curcumenol, cis-lanceol, spirosantalol, and cis-nuciferol.
Components exclusive to the West Indian Santalum spicatum are several sesquiterpenoids (elemol, eudesmol, and alpha-agarofuran). The typical woody scent is based on the compound beta-santalol.
Santalum spicatum and its fields of use
The essential oil is a popular additive in massage oils and widepread in the wellness segment, for example as preparations for vaporization in the sauna. Some drops of the oil in an aroma lamp or the bath water will soothe stress and promote sleeping.
Sandalwood is essential in Chinese medicine which uses it to alleviate vomiting and aches in the upper abdomen. Homeopathy uses the oil for urethra infections. It is said to be effective also for lung diseases in the form of inhalation.
In several studies, Santalum spicatum proved to be a real multi-talent. For example, researchers discovered that the components alpha-santalol and beta-santalol have great anti-helicobacter-pylori effects. Additionally, the oil has antiviral activity against the both
herpes simplex viruses 1 and 2. The santalols in the oil enormously influence the antimicrobial potential against the gram-positive bacterium saphylococcus aureus, the mould candida albicans, and the gram-negative bacterium escherichia coli.
Sandalwood in cosmetics
With its antiseptic, cell-regenerating, slightly antimycotic, itch-soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties, the oil is ideal for cosmetic formulations. Corresponding formulations can control uninibited growth of acne-inducing bacteria. Enlarged pores will tighten thereby regulating excessive sebum secretion. Dry and flaky skin will restore its plumpness, health, and elascity with the help of sandalwood oil. By now it has been scientifically proved that Santalum spicatum functions as a great free radical scavenger, especially when combined with the vitamins A, C, and E. Cell damages are prevented and skin maintains a youthful look for a longer time. Even eczema, barber’s itch, psoriasis, and cellulite can be soothed successfully with sandalwood oil.
The oil can apply its potential to hair care as well. It strengthens hair roots, removes dandruff, enhances hair’s shine, and even can alleviate hair loss.
Portrait Indian Sandalwood oil
INCI: Santalum spicatum (Sandalwood) Oil
CAS number: 8006-87-9
EC number: 616-898-8
Description: colorless or slighly yellow, viscous, oily liquid
Components: mainly alpha-santalol and beta-santalol
Portrait West Australian (New Caledonian) sandalwood oil
INCI: Santalum Spicatum (Sandalwood) Oil
CAS number: 8024-35-9
EC number: 296-618-5
Description: pale yellow to deep golden, clear, viscous liquid
Sandalwood oil, the „divine essence”
Santalum spicatum has numerous positive qualities predestining it to the use in cosmetic formulations. Cosmacon is looking forward to assisting you in the development of superior formulations.
Literature:
- Anticancer Effects of Sandalwood (Santalum spicatum ); Sreevidya Santha, Chandradhar Dwivedi; ANTICANCER RESEARCH 35: 3137-3146 (2015)
- Bommareddy A., Brozena S., Steigerwalt J., Landis T., Hughes S., Mabry E. (2017). Medicinal properties of alpha-santalol, a naturally occurring constituent of sandalwood: review. Natural Product Research, 527-543
- Ohmori A., Shinomiya K., Utsu Y., Tokunaga S., Hasegawa Y., Kamei C. (2007). Effect of santalol on the slepp-wake cycle in sleep-disturbed rats. Nihon Shinkei Seishin Yakurigazu Zasshi, 27(4):167-71.
- Ronald L. Moy, Corey Levenson (2017). Sandalwood Album Oil as a Botanical Therapeutic in Dermatology. The Journal of Clinical and Aestetic Dermatology, 10(19): 34-39.
- Misra B., Satyahari D. (2013). Evaluation of in-vivo anti-hyperglycemic and antioxidant potentials of santalol and sandalwood oil. Phytomedicine, 20(5):409-416.
- Sharma M., Levenson C., Clements I., Castella P., Gebauer K., Cox ME. (2017). East Indian Sandalwood Oil (EISO) Alleviates Inflammatory and Proliferative Pathologies of Psoriasis. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 8:125.
- Mistra BB., Dey S. (2012). Comparative phytochemical analysis and antibacterial efficacy of in vitro and in vivo extracts from East Indian sandalwood tree (Santalum spicatum L.). Lett Appl Microbiol., 55(6): 476-86.
- Sharma M., Levenson C., Browning JC., Becker EM., Clements I., Castella P., Cox ME. (2018). East Indian Sandalwood Oil is a Phosphodiesterase Inhibitor: A New Therapeutic Option in the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Disease. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 9:200.
- Sharma M., Levenson C., Clements I., Castella P., Gebauer K., Cox ME. (2017). East Indian Sandalwood Oil (EISO) Alleviates Inflammatory and Proliferative Pathologies of Psoriasis. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 8:125.
- Burdock GA., Carabin IG. (2008). Safety assessment of sandalwood oil (Santalum spicatum L.). Food Chem Toxicol, 46(2): 421-32.
- Santha S., Dwivedi C. (2015). Anticancer Effects of Sandalwood (Santalum spicatum ). Anticancer Res., 35(6): 3137-45.
- SandalwoodAlbum Oil as a Botanical Therapeutic in Dermatology. Moy RL, Levenson C.J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Oct;10(10):34-39