Proactive aging
Proactive aging for the skin
We cannot prevent the natural aging process; so it is actually not correct to speak of anti-aging. We can use our lifestyle and honest cosmetics to help ensure that the changes over the years are slower and better. Better Aging, Slow Aging, Well Aging, healthy aging describe this approach.
What is meant is proactive aging, because we determine how it happens and use knowledge from medicine, nutrition science, psychology, cosmetology and cosmetics to do so.
In practice, these findings are applied to protect the skin from environmental influences such as UV rays and air pollutants, and to strengthen the skin’s own protection mechanisms, with the skin barrier being particularly important.
Newly developed active agents provide the skin with an increasing number of active substances. However, the potential of known active agents is also being scientifically analysed and utilised.
We now know of a number of ceramides, each of which fulfils certain functions in the skin, can access hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, and can use classic and new active agents specifically for proactive aging of the skin.
Proactive aging means protecting the skin barrier
Strengthening and repairing the skin barrier plays a central role in proactive skin aging.
Ceramides are the most important lipids in the skin barrier.
Several ceramides are now known, e.g. ceramide NP, a phytosphingosine.
This type makes up the majority of ceramides in the skin. These protect the skin from moisture loss, dryness and premature aging.
Phytosphingosines are essential components of the stratum corneum. As studies show, they increase the moisture content of the skin barrier by stimulating filaggrin biosynthesis and filaggrin degradation. This protein of the cornifying epithelial cells of the epidermis is essential for the synthesis of the natural moisturising factor.
Panthenol is an important player in skin care and for proactive aging.
Due to its chemical properties, it can easily penetrate the stratum corneum and supply the skin with moisture there. It stabilises the skin barrier, stimulates the formation of barrier lipids, cell regeneration and thus skin regeneration. It soothes the skin, inhibits inflammation (which is partly responsible for the aging process) and improves the elasticity of the skin.
Collagen makes up about 90 percent of the dermis. Due to its high swelling capacity, it is an optimal moisture store and extremely important for the appearance of the skin. Since the swelling capacity of collagen decreases over time, the skin loses its elasticity and suppleness. Proactive aging supports the collagen and elastin-forming fibrocytes, uses amino acids and peptides as well as vitamin C, and places a strong emphasis on sun protection.
Proactive aging relies on anti-oxidation
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has an antioxidant effect and has been shown to increase collagen synthesis, plumping the skin, improving its moisture-retention capacity and giving it a smoother appearance.
It also has an anti-inflammatory effect and can reduce pigment spots.
In cosmetic formulations, vitamin C is used in encapsulated carrier systems or in the form of stable ascorbic acid derivatives, such as ethyl ascorbic acid, because of its instability.
A very potent antioxidant that fits perfectly into the concept of proactive aging is the polyphenol resveratrol.
It acts directly in the mitochondria of skin cells, where it neutralises reactive oxygen species (ROS) that are formed by UV but also infrared light. Resveratol inhibits increased formation of lipid peroxides due to UVB exposure and thus protects against photoaging.
It also inhibits the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are responsible, among other things, for the breakdown of collagen.
In addition, resveratrol contains fruit acids which, when applied regularly, refine the skin’s appearance.
A special process is used to stabilise the active trans-resveratrol so that it can develop its full potential as a radical scavenger in cosmetic products. Studies show that the skin’s antioxidant defence system is strengthened by up to 35% after the first application.
Betulin and its derivatives are also powerful antioxidants. The substance, which is obtained from the bark of birch trees, not only has a skin-lightening effect and reduces hyperpigmentation and pigment spots, but also activates the proteins necessary for skin regeneration and cell formation, protects against moisture loss and strengthens the skin’s barrier. In addition, betulin has a high anti-inflammatory potential, which is relevant for proactive aging, since micro-inflammations trigger and accelerate aging processes.
It is therefore not surprising that betulin is also efficient in the treatment of eczema, psoriasis and acne.
Amino acids for proactive aging
An interesting amino acid derivative is ectoine, a stress protection molecule that is formed by microorganisms that survive under extreme conditions such as severe drought, UV radiation or high salt concentrations.
The natural active ingredient also has protective effects for the skin. It strengthens the skin barrier, stabilises cell membranes, protects protein structures, has an anti-inflammatory effect, alleviates redness and itching, improves the skin’s moisture-binding capacity and thus leads to a balanced complexion in which wrinkles are significantly reduced.
Peptides
Peptides are the body’s own protein building blocks and components of elastin and collagen.
They are of great benefit for proactive aging in cosmetics because they signal the cells to regenerate and repair, stimulate collagen and elastin formation, support the skin’s protective functions, and keep inflammatory processes in check.
A much-noted example is Copper-1 Tripeptide, a compound made of copper and three amino acids. It scores with its high efficiency in stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis and is thus a real elasticity booster that also improves the skin’s resistance and radiance.
Determining how aging happens
Proactive ageing focuses on protection, anti-oxidation, strengthening the skin’s own structures, and is active before the ageing process causes irreversible changes in the skin. With this approach, we can influence to a large extent how ageing occurs.
The main focus here is on protecting the skin barrier, reducing harmful oxidation and inflammation processes, and using components that also occur in the skin, such as peptides, to strengthen skin regeneration. We have provided an overview here of some of the key players in the proactive aging concept, which basically only needs a few components. Cosmacon would be happy to formulate your products for proactive aging with you. Contact us!
Literature:
Berardesca et al. (2009) Effects of topical gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in the treatment of sensitive atopic skin
Chen et al. (2014) Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging
Choi et al. (2017) Phytosphingosine enhances moisture level in human skin barrier through stimulation of the filaggrin biosynthesis and degradation leading to NMF formation
Cui et al, (2022) Resveratrol Treats UVB-Induced Photoaging by Anti-MMP Expression, through Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant, and Antiapoptotic Properties, and Treats Photoaging by Upregulating VEGF-B Expression
Farris (2005) Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions
Farris et al. (2013) Resveratrol: a unique antioxidant offering a multi-mechanistic approach for treating aging skin
Graf et al. (2008) The multifunctional role of ectoine as a natural cell protectant
Grether-Beck et al. (2014) Effective photoprotection of human skin against infrared A radiation by topically applied antioxidants: results from a vehicle controlled, double-blind, randomised study
Krutmann et al. (2017) The skin aging exposome
Lupo et al. (2007) Cosmeceutical peptides
Ratz-Łyko et al. (2019) Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review
Streker: Healthy Aging, Cossma 02/2024