Natural dyes

13. April 2026

Colors from nature – beauty in its purest form

In the world of cosmetics, it is not only the effect that plays a central role, but also the appearance. Colors influence our perception and our well-being – and they contribute significantly to the attractiveness of a product. However, more and more consumers today want natural ingredients – even when it comes to coloring. The good news is that nature offers an amazing variety of coloring plant substances that not only look beautiful but also have nourishing and protective properties.

In this article, we present a selection of natural colorants that are playing an increasingly important role in modern cosmetic formulations. From intense violet to sunny yellow to deep blue—discover the variety of plant-based colors and their benefits for skin care, decorative cosmetics, and more.

Açaí

INCI: Euterpe oleracea extract
Solubility: hydrophilic (extract), lipophilic (oil)
Main chemical pigments: cyanidin-3-rutinoside and cyanidin-3-glucoside
Color: violet (extract), green (oil)

Açaí berries are dark purple in color. Their main chemical components are anthocyanins, including cyanidin-3-rutinosideand cyanidin-3-glucoside, which are the predominant pigments in açaí fruit. The berries also contain various flavones and flavonol glycosides, flavanol derivatives, and phenolic acids. An oil of dark green color is extracted from the flesh of the fruit of the açaí palm, which grows in Brazil, by pressing.

Alkanet

INCI: Alkanna tinctoria root extract
Solubility: hydrophobic
Main chemical pigment: alkannin
Color: red/violet

Alkanet belongs to the borage family. The roots provide a dark red pigment. Although the flowers are blue, the plant has dark red roots that appear black on the outside but are blue-red on the inside and whitish in the middle. The most important chemical component of the madder root is alkannin, which is soluble in alcohol, ether, and oils but not in water. However, madder is toxic when ingested (hepatotoxic) and should therefore not be used in formulations such as lipsticks.

Annatto

INCI: Bixa orellana seed extract
Solubility: lipophilic (bixin), hydrophilic (norbixin)
Main chemical dyes: Norbixin, Bixin
Color: Orange / Red

Annatto is an orange-red dye obtained from the seeds of the achiote shrub (Bixa orellana). The reddish-orange annatto dye comes mainly from the resin layer that covers the seeds. The yellow to orange dye is formed by the carotenoids bixinand norbixin. Through saponification, the fat-soluble bixin is converted into the water-soluble norbixin. It is very rare for a carotenoid to have two types of solubility, as is the case with the annatto dye. The seeds contain 4.5–5.5% dye, 70–80% of which is bixin. Unlike the well-known beta-carotene, annatto dyes are not precursors of vitamin A. The higher the proportion of norbixin in the annatto pigment, the stronger the yellow color; the higher the proportion of bixin, the stronger the orange color.

Avocado

INCI: Persea gratissima oil
Solubility: lipophilic (oil)
Main chemical pigment: lutein
Color: green/yellow

Unrefined avocado oil is bright green and so heavy that it quickly hardens at cooler temperatures. The skin, flesh, and oil contain carotenoids and chlorophylls such as lutein, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, neoxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin, antheraxanthin, chlorophylls a and b, and pheophytins a and b.

The most significant pigment in avocado oil is lutein. Lutein is one of 600 known naturally occurring carotenoids. It is produced only by plants and, like other xanthophylls, is abundant in green vegetables such as spinach, kale, and avocado.

Beetroot

INCI: Beta vulgaris (beet) extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical pigment: betanin
Color: red/pink

Beetroot is a well-known pigment for water-based natural cosmetic products. The main chemical component is betanin, which decomposes when exposed to light, heat, or oxygen. When beetroot powder is dissolved in glycerin, the result is a bright pink or red glycerite that can be used in emulsions, water-based gels, or facial toners. Since beetroot is water-soluble, the dye cannot be used in oil macerations.

Blue tansy

INCI: Tanacetum annuum flower oil
Solubility: lipophilic (essential oil)
Main chemical dye: chamazulene
Color: blue

Blue tansy belongs to the Asteraceae family and is related to chamomile. Chamomile contains chamazulene. This substance is also found in blue tansy: 17-38% chamazulene in the essential oil. It is obtained by steam distillation. The essential oil of blue tansy can be used to color formulations blue. It should not be confused with tansy oil (Tanacetum vulgare).

Buriti

INCI: Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil
Solubility: lipophilic (the oil)
Main chemical pigment: beta-carotene
Color: red/orange

Buriti is a type of palm tree that grows mainly in the Amazon region. Its fruits resemble chestnuts. The yellow-orange pulp is used to make juice and extract oil. The oil is edible and is used in cooking and frying. Can you imagine frying chips in this oil? The oval seeds of the fruit are also edible.

Buriti oil contains over 70% oleic acid, which is similar to acai oil. Buriti has an incomparably high beta-carotenecontent. No other natural source surpasses the fruit in its beta-carotene concentration, not even carrots: 100g of carrots contain 6.6 mg of beta-carotene, while 100g of buriti pulp contains 30g of beta-carotene. The concentration is even higher in buriti oil: 330 mg of beta-carotene in 100g.

Blue clitoria

INCI: Clitoria ternatea flower extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical pigment: delphinidin
Color: violet/blue

The flowers of the blue clitoria have a striking blue color and are often used as a pigment in organic cosmetics. They contain anthocyanins,

p-coumaric acid, and ferulic acid. In addition to anthocyanins, the petals of blue clitoria contain many flavonoids, such as p-coumaric acid and ferulic acid. The anthocyanins in the petals of blue clitoria are derivatives of the anthocyanin delphinidin.

Calendula

INCI: Calendula officinalis flower extract
Solubility: hydrophobic
Main chemical pigment: flavoxanthin
Color: orange

Carotenoids are primarily responsible for the yellow to red colors of the flowers. The wide spectrum of flower colors in calendula is due to the diverse combinations of carotenoids. Nineteen carotenoids have been discovered in extracts from the petals of orange and yellow calendula varieties. The most important carotenoid in calendula petals is flavoxanthin;

which is responsible for the orange color of calendula flowers. Other carotenoids in calendula are lycopene and lutein. As a food additive, flavoxanthin is used as a colorant with the E number E161a, but it is not approved in the EU or the US.

Carrot

INCI: Daucus carota sativa root extract
Solubility: hydrophobic
Most important chemical colorant: Beta-carotene
Color: Orange

The term carotenoids derives from the fact that they are the characteristic colorants in carrots, Daucus carota. They are among the most common and important colorants in living organisms. Carotenoids give many plants their color, including carrots. Alongside chlorophylls, carotenoids form the largest group of pigments found in nature. The main pigment in carrots is a beta-carotene derivative. Carrot macerated in oil is very important in the production of organic skin care products and gives them a beautiful orange color.

Chamomile (true)

INCI: Matricaria recutita flower oil
Solubility: lipophilic (essential oil)
Main chemical pigment: chamazulene
Color: blue

This type of chamomile, also known as Hungarian or blue chamomile, produces an essential oil that is deep blue due to its high chamazulene content (2-5%). The essential oil also contains a high percentage of alcohols, such as bisabolol. Chamazulene is only found in the essential oil of Roman and true chamomile. It is extracted from a substance called matricin during the distillation process. This substance gives the essential oil of true chamomile its bright blue color. During the distillation of Roman chamomile essential oil, the formation of chamazulene is often prevented, as the industry prefers this oil to have a pale straw color. The anti-inflammatory properties of both types of chamomile are based on chamazulene.

Dyer’s reseda

INCI: Reseda luteola extract
Solubility: hydrophobic
Main chemical dye: luteolin
Color: yellow

Luteolin gives dyer’s reseda (also known as yellowweed, yellow herb, or dyer’s woad) its color. Dyer’s reseda is one of the oldest plants used for yellow dyeing and is native to many parts of Central Europe. The leaves and seeds are used, as they contain more dye than the stems. Infusions of the plant are suitable for treating wounds.

Elderberry

INCI: Sambucus nigra extract
Solubility: hydrophilic (extract)
Main chemical dye: cyanidin 3-glucoside
Color: red/violet

Elderberry has a similar content of chemical pigments and natural dyes as acai berry. This is not surprising, as they are very similar in their dark purple color. Their most important dye is cyanidin-3-glucoside, a highly water-soluble anthocyanin.

Hemp

INCI: Cannabis sativa oil
Solubility: lipophilic
Most important chemical dye: Chlorophyll
Color: Green

The hemp oil has an intense green color due to its chlorophyll content. Hemp oil extracted using supercritical CO2 contains three times as much chlorophyll and four times as much carotene as oil extracted using cold pressing (Aladić, et al., 2014) . Chlorophyll is soluble in alcohol and oil, but not in water.

Henna

INCI: Lawsonia inermis extract
Solubility: hydrophobic
Main chemical dye: Lawson
Color: red/orange

Since ancient times, henna has served as a natural dye for skin, hair, fingernails, and textiles like silk, wool, and leather. Henna contains the dye Lawson (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone), also known as henna tannic acid. The red-orange dye is found in the leaves of the henna plant (Lawsonia inermis) and also occurs in the flowers of the water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes).

Hibiscus

INCI: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis flower extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical dyes: cyanidin-3-sophoroside, cyanidin-3-sambubioside, delphinidin-3-sambubioside
Color: red/pink

The red pigments in the red flowers of the rose mallow plant are anthocyanins, which are widely used as colorants. The petals of the species Hibiscus rosa-sinensis mainly contain the chemical pigment cyanidin-3-sophoroside. Extracts are also obtained from the hibiscus variety Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), which probably originates from West Africa. The most important anthocyanins in Hibiscus sabdariffa are cyanidin-3-sophoroside and delphinidin-3-sophoroside.

Indigo

INCI: Indigofera tinctoria extract
Solubility: Hydrophilic
Main chemical dye: Indigotin
Color: Blue / Mauve

The blue dye is obtained from the fermented leaves of the indigo plant. It produces a blue to mauve dye called indigotin(indigoid structure). The dye from the plant is also known as Pigmentum indicum. It is a paste-like substance that is secreted during the fermentation of the plant material. It is processed into cakes, which are then finely ground. Upon exposure to air, the powder develops its characteristic blue color.

The indigo dye is a derivative, indican, a glucoside of several Indigofera species, which is converted into blue indigotin by an enzymatic process. The dye is very colorfast; and is used to produce a number of dyes with stabilizers and other components. Today, almost all commercially used indigo dyes are produced synthetically (Dweck, 2002).

Iris

INCI: Iris germanica extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical dyes: mangiferin, delphinidin
Color: violet / blue / green

The iris extract obtained from the roots of Iris germanica (blue iris) contains high concentrations of isoflavones. The mangiferin contained in iris is considered one of the essential co-pigments of iris flowers; in interaction with anthocyanin (a delphinidin glycoside), it forms a whole spectrum of violet, mauve, and blue tones.

In earlier times, Iris germanica was used to produce iris green together with the petals and other plants. To prepare the dye, the juice was simply pressed from the flowers and then mixed with an aluminum hydroxide base (alum). The green color came from the petals of the purple iris. The dye was initially purple, but turned blue with the addition of alum and green with the addition of calcium.

Madder

INCI: Rubia tinctorum extract
Solubility: slightly hydrophilic
Main chemical dyes: Alizarin and purpurin
Color: Red / Violet

Madder is native to Mediterranean countries and was cultivated on a large scale in the past for the production of dyes. The genus name Rubia means red. This plant is the source material for permanent red dyes. The 2–3-year-old rootstock of the plant is used medicinally and retains its red color even after drying. Its components include anthraquinone glycosides, which are two red chemical compounds from the roots and tubers: alizarin and purpurin.

Monascus purpureus

INCI: Monascus extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical dye: Rubropunctamine
Color: Red/violet

Monascus purpureus is a purple mold. During its growth, it breaks down starch into several metabolic products, including dyes as secondary metabolites. The colors available to date are violet and red. The most important chemical dye in Monascus purpureus is rubropunctamine, which accounts for 57-87% of the total dyes formed.

Nettle

INCI: Urtica dioica leaf extract
Solubility: lipophilic
Most important chemical pigment: chlorophyll
Color: green

Nettle leaves contain caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, abundant chlorophyll

and other pigments. Depending on the location of the plant, in the sun or in the shade, dried nettle leaves contain almost 5mg of chlorophyll per gram. Plants that grow in the shade have a higher chlorophyll and carotenoid content. Chlorophyll is fat-soluble.

Paprika

INCI: Capsicum annuum extract
Solubility: lipophilic
Main chemical pigments: capsanthin, capsorubin
Color: red/violet

Paprika contains a mixture of carotenoids. Capsanthin and capsorubin are the main components responsible for the red color. Red paprika has a high content of carotenoid pigments such as capsanthin, capsorubin, carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and cucurbitaxanthin. Paprika red is used not only as a pigment but also for its stimulating effects in cosmetic creams, oils, emulsions, and sports massage products. Since capsanthin generates heat (anyone who has ever eaten a chili pepper knows this!), care must be taken when applying it to the skin and low concentrations (<0.1%) must be used in cosmetic products.

Pomegranate

INCI: Punica granatum fruit extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical pigment: punicalagin
Color: Red/purple

Although it is mainly the water-soluble anthocyanins that give pomegranate juice its beautiful red/purple color, the dyes are mainly extracted from the inedible skin of the fruit. The main components are punicalagin, punicalin, gallic acid, and ellagic acid. In addition, there are alkaloids such as isopelletierine. Pomegranate dye and many other natural dyes have strong antimicrobial properties due to their high tannin content.

Red cabbage

INCI: Brassica oleracea leaf extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical dyes: cyanidin-3-glucoside and delphinidin-3-glucoside
Color: pink/purple

Red cabbage, Brassica oleracea L. var. capitata, is known for its pink/purple color. The main components of the water-soluble dye used as a natural coloring agent are anthocyanins. Red cabbage contains eight anthocyanins, including cyanidin-3-glucoside and delphinidin-3-glucoside.

Red clover

INCI: Trifolium pratense extract
Solubility: Hydrophilic
Main chemical dye: Formononetin
Color: Golden yellow

The Red clover contains abundant isoflavones, including a natural dye called formononetin (7-hydroxy-4′-methoxyflavone), which is a dull golden yellow. Formononetin is estrogenic in vitro and in vivo. (The estrogen-like effects of formononetin have been studied in numerous scientific papers on sheep.) However, little is known about when red clover is best harvested to obtain its maximum isoflavone content.

Red sandalwood

INCI: Pterocarpus santalinum extract
Solubility: hydrophobic
Main chemical dye: santalin
Color: red

The red dye from the red sandalwood tree or Pterocarpus santalinum is a complex molecule called santalin. Numerous forms are derived from the basic structure, all in vibrant red colors. The stability of this red is very good compared to other red dyes. It has been used for centuries. The chemical components of red sandalwood provide a red dye (santalin A or santalin B) or a yellow dye (santalin Y).

Rosehip

INCI: Rosa canina fruit oil
Solubility: lipophilic
Main chemical dyes: lycopene, beta-carotene
Color: red/orange

The reddish color of rosehip oil obtained by cold pressing is due to its carotenoid content. Oil extracted using solvents, on the other hand, is yellowish; this could be because the organic solvent extracts pigments and other substances from the seeds and/or because the red dye is broken down by the high temperatures used in oil extraction. Rose hips contain nine carotenoids: three carotenes (lycopene, ζ-carotene, β-carotene) and six xanthophylls (neoxanthin, trans-violaxanthin, cis-violaxanthin, 5,6-epoxylutein, lutein, β-cryptoxanthin). This makes rose hips one of the fruits with the greatest variety and highest concentration of carotenoid pigments, especially lycopene and beta-carotene.

Safflower

INCI: Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Solubility: lipophilic (carthamine), hydrophilic (carthamidine)
Main chemical pigment: Carthamine
Color: Yellow/red

Safflower contains the yellow-orange pigment carthamine. However, closer examination revealed two natural pigments, one yellow and one red. The seeds provide an oil, while the flowers provide a yellow pigment. Carthamine is a water-insoluble red dye, while carthamidine is a water-soluble yellow dye.

Saffron

INCI: Crocus sativus extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Most important chemical dyes: crocin, crocetin, picrocrocin, riboflavin
Color: Yellow

The dried stigmas and tips of the styles of Crocus sativus contain crocins,

crocetins, picrocrocins, and safranal. The dyes are sensitive and should be protected from light. The stigmas of C. sativusare rich in riboflavin, a yellow dye, and vitamins. Saffron also contains crocin, which is the main source of the yellow-red pigment. α-Crocin is a carotenoid pigment and is primarily responsible for the golden yellow-orange color of saffron. The bitter glycoside picrocrocin gives saffron its taste and safranal gives it its typical aroma. Crocus sativus should not be confused with the poisonous autumn crocus, Colchicum autumnale.

Sea buckthorn

INCI: Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil
Solubility: lipophilic
Main chemical pigments: beta-carotene, zeaxanthin, lycopene
Color: orange

It is mainly the carotenoids that give sea buckthorn berries their typical color. These substances are particularly concentrated in the oil of the pulp. However, the total carotenoid content varies greatly depending on the location and variety of sea buckthorn (300–2000 mg/100 g). The carotenoids present in the pulp oil are mainly beta-carotene, zeaxanthin, and lycopene.

Spinach

INCI: Spinacia oleracea leaf extract
Solubility: lipophilic
Main chemical pigment: chlorophyll
Color: green/yellow

Spinach leaves contain the pigments chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, and beta-carotene, as well as smaller amounts of other pigments such as xanthophylls. As with other green leafy vegetables, only the green of the chlorophylls is visible in spinach because they mask the red, orange, and yellow of the carotenoids. Blanching spinach reduces its chlorophyll content. Chlorophyll is fat-soluble.

Spirulina

INCI: Spirulina platensis extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical pigments: Phycocyanin and phycoerythrin
Color: Blue/green

Spirulina is the collective term for a biomass of cyanobacteria (blue-green algae). There are two types: Arthrospira platensis and Arthrospira maxima, which produce the pigments phycocyanin and phycoerythrin. Phycocyanin is a bluish pigment that absorbs orange and red light. Phycoerythrin is a reddish pigment. Microalgae-based pigments are currently in high demand on the market, and spirulina is extremely popular!

St. John’s wort

INCI: Hypericum perforatum flower extract
Solubility: lipophilic and hydrophilic
Main chemical pigment: hypericin
Color: red

Hypericin is a fluorescent red pigment found in St. John’s wort. The bright yellow flowers produce a dark red oil when macerated. If the flowers are immersed in oil for a period of time, the oil turns deep red. It is used in anhydrous or emulsified formulations. Alongside hyperforin, hypericin is one of the best-known chemical components in St. John’s wort. Hypericin is said to have antibiotic, antiviral, and antidepressant effects. It has a special chemical structure, as one half of the molecule is hydrophilic and the other is hydrophobic.

Tomato

INCI: Solanum lycopersicum extract
Solubility: lipophilic
Main chemical pigment: lycopene
Color: red/orange

The main pigments in tomatoes are lycopene, α- and β-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and b-cryptoxanthin. Lycopene is a bright red carotene and carotenoid pigment. The phytochemical compound is found in tomatoes and red fruits and vegetables, such as red carrots, watermelons, gac fruit, and papayas. Lycopene is used as a colorant in tomato-based sauces. It is insoluble in water and can only be dissolved in organic solvents and oils. It accounts for 80–90% of the total carotenoid content in ripe red tomatoes. Beta-carotene, the yellow pigment in carrots, is a lycopene isomer.

Turmeric

INCI: Curcuma longa extract
Solvent: hydrophobic
Main chemical pigment: curcumin
Color: yellow/orange

Turmeric is also known as Indian saffron. The dried and fresh rhizome of the plant Curcuma longa is used. The rhizome has been used for thousands of years as a medicine, spice, and pigment. It’s chemical component curcumin provides a color spectrum ranging from yellow to dark orange. Turmeric contains about 5% volatile oils, resins, and yellow dyes, the curcuminoids. In terms of chemical composition, curcumin, which is responsible for the yellow color of the natural dye, accounts for 50-60%.

Black walnut

INCI: Juglans nigra shell extract
Solubility: lipophilic
Main chemical dye: juglone
Color: orange/brown

The black walnut fruit contains juglone (5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone), plumbagin

(yellow quinone pigments), and tannin. It produces an orange-brown dye. The liquid dye from the inner shell darkens over time, while the outer shell changes color from green to black when exposed to light. Juglone is an isomer of Lawson, which is the coloring compound in the leaves of the henna shrub.

Woad

INCI: Isatis tinctoria leaf extract
Solubility: hydrophilic
Main chemical dye: indigotin
Color: blue/indigo

Dyer’s woad is a plant that produces a blue dye. The chemical name of the extracted dye is indigotin; it is similar to the dye extracted from the “true indigo plant,”

Indigofera tinctoria, but less concentrated. In parts of the USA, woad is considered an invasive species.

Yarrow

INCI: Achillea millefolium oil
Solubility: lipophilic (essential oil)
Most important chemical dye: chamazulene
Color: blue

Similar to blue tansy and chamomile, some yarrow essential oils may contain chamazulene, which gives the oil a dark blue color. Some yarrow essential oils are dark blue and contain over 15% chamazulene, which is well suited as a natural dye in skin care formulations.

During steam distillation of the herb, the component matricin is converted into azulene or chamazulene, substances that are not present in the original plant. Azulene and chamazulene are produced by the heat during steam distillation.

Conclusion: Naturally beautiful with the power of colors

Natural dyes not only offer a wide range of colors, but also valuable additional cosmetic benefits – from antioxidant to anti-inflammatory properties. Whether blue from chamazulene, orange from beta-carotene, or violet from anthocyanins: nature provides an impressive variety of effective pigments for modern, sustainable cosmetic products.

Cosmacon GmbH supports you as an innovative development partner in formulating effective cosmetic products with natural dyes. Our expertise in natural cosmetics and functional plant extracts helps your brand position itself sustainably on the market with high-quality products. Contact us – together we will bring color to your cosmetics line!

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