Hair care for frizzy hair

Formulating products for frizzy hair is not easy because curls themselves vary from tight curls to corkscrew curls and also include frizzy hair. One thing that people with frizzy hair have in common is the difficulty of distributing the natural oils so that they are present from the scalp to the ends of the hair. Although frizzy hair may appear thick and voluminous, it is actually very delicate hair that needs extra oil and care.

So how do you formulate products for frizzy hair?

First, you need to know that frizzy hair varies, and then address the specific needs of each type of curl.

 

But what types of hair are there anyway?

Type 1: Straight hair

Structure: Straight and smooth, without pronounced waves or curls.

Characteristics: Tends to get greasy quickly because sebum spreads more easily and the hair is closer to the scalp than curls.

There are no subtypes.

 

Type 2: Wavy hair

Structure: Slight, S-shaped waves. Between straight and curly hair.

Characteristics: Tends to be frizzy and dry, but benefits from products that define waves and moisturize.

Type 2A: Wavy hair

Structure: Soft, large waves, often with a natural shine. Delicate, loose curls that closely resemble straight hair.

Curl type 2B: Wavy to frizzy

Structure: Defined, more pronounced S-waves and slight curls that stand away from the head.

Curl type 2C: Frizzy, wavy hair

Structure: Clearly pronounced S-waves to curly strands. Visible waves from root to tip.

 

Type 3: Curly hair

Structure: Clearly pronounced and defined curls with spiral curls.

Characteristics: Tends to frizz and dryness quickly and therefore requires intensive moisturizing to tame and define the curls.

Curl type 3A: Curly hair

Structure: Large, defined, S-shaped curls with a diameter of up to 2 cm. The curls are voluminous and have a pronounced spiral shape.

Curl type 3B: Corkscrew curls

Structure: Tighter, defined curls with a corkscrew shape and small diameter of up to 1 cm.

Curl type 3C: Small curls

Structure: Even smaller, tighter curls or corkscrew curls with a diameter of up to 0.5 cm.

 

Type 4: Kinky curls

Structure: Tight, small and very firm spiral curls or afro hair.

Characteristics: Very dry, needs particularly intensive moisturizing, oils and curl creams. Strong shrinkage when drying.

Curl type 4A: Corkscrew curls to S-waves

Structure: Defined, small S-shaped curls with a distinct spiral pattern that are close together. High elasticity.

Curl type 4B: Corkscrew curls to zigzag curls

Structure: Closely wound corkscrew curls, often in a zigzag pattern. High drying shrinkage.

Curl type 4C: Small and tight loops

Structure: The strongest type of frizz with very small, tight curls in no discernible pattern. High drying shrinkage.

 

 

When we talk about frizzy hair, we mean hair types from 3a onwards

When formulating products for curly hair (hair that is categorized on the conventional scale from 3a to 4c), it is very important to consider the strength of the curls and the thickness of the curl and whether it is natural curl or coiled hair will heavily influence formulation decisions. Hair care brands that focus on developing products for curly hair will have better products and happier consumers when they categorize and advertise their products specifically for the different types of curls.

For example, hair categorized as “3a coiled hair” is significantly different from “4a soft kinky hair.” When formulating for curly hair, a brand should use either the traditional number/letter sequence (e.g., 3a) or a similar method.

 

 

What is certain for frizzy hair

1. The tighter the curl, the less natural oils are distributed throughout the hair.
2. The tighter the curl, the more it is damaged because the natural hair oils that would normally provide effective care cannot penetrate far into the hair shaft.
3. Therefore, the greater is the need for conditioning additives such as polyquaternium and for repairing ingredients such as hydrolyzed proteins.
4. The milder the cleansing must be so that these important natural oils are not removed too aggressively, since they do not spread easily from root to tip anyway.
5. The higher the oil content in wash-out products, the higher the need for lipid additives in leave-on products.
6. From mostly volatile products for loose and soft curls to mostly non-volatile products for natural, very tight curls or Z-shapes.
7. The smaller the curls or Z-shapes, the higher the demands for hold and flexibility.
8. It also becomes more difficult to distribute the product from root to tip as the size of the curl decreases (narrows) – so any styling or oil-based products should contain long-lasting lipids to aid distribution.
9. Wax-based products are really only for people with very short hair.

 

 

Formulations for different curl types – frizzy hair

Since frizzy hair is very diverse, here is a brief summary of the different curl types and what you need to specifically incorporate into different frizz formulas to address specific issues and achieve optimal results.

3a Curls 

• Thick curls with lots of volume.
• Do not hold a shine well.
• Can become frizzy, so anti-frizz cream-based products with a light hold should be used.
• Can be quite dry, so light leave-in products with added care such as O/W creams with volatile lipids, hydrolyzed proteins and polyquaternium actives are required.
• Shampoos should have a medium surfactant level or lower, while conditioners require medium to high lipid levels.

3b Curls (tight) 

• Tight curls with a lot of body.
• Do not shine.
• Very prone to frizz; anti-frizz products must be O/W cream-based with medium hold and conditioning additives.
• Can be quite dry, so light leave-in products with additional care are required, such as O/W creams with volatile lipids, hydrolyzed proteins and polyquaternium.
• Shampoos should have medium surfactant levels at most, while conditioners require medium to high lipid levels.
• For tight, curly hair, oil/wax-based products can be used to smooth the curls.
• This hair type can benefit from occasional oil-based leave-in treatments.

3c Very curly (corkscrew curls)

• Pronounced curls in tight corkscrew coils.
• Do not shine.
• Very prone to frizz and volume that needs to be well controlled. Anti-frizz products should contain styling and care additives in a cream base with a medium fat content that is not volatile.
• Shampoos should have medium surfactant content at most, while conditioners need medium to high lipid content.
• For very curly hair, oil- or wax-based products can be used to smooth the curls.
• This hair type benefits from occasional leave-in oil-based treatments with a blend of volatile and non-volatile lipids.

4a Kinky (soft) 

• Tight curls, but the curls are still clearly visible (compared to type Z, see below).
• Do not shine well.
• Anti-frizz or care products should be based on an O/W cream and contain volatile and non-volatile, long-lasting lipids in medium to high dosages together with hydrolyzed proteins and polyquaternium.
• Shampoos should contain a medium level of surfactants, while conditioners should have a relatively high lipid content.
• Styling products require high levels of conditioning ingredients such as hydrolyzed proteins and polyquaternium, as well as a good hold.
• This hair type benefits from regular leave-in oil-based treatment with a blend of volatile and non-volatile lipids.

4b Crimped (wiry) 

• Heavily crimped with Z-shape (not curls).
• Can use oils to maintain the “Z” shape and reduce excessive crimping.
• Very dry, very prone to damage. This hair type needs regular use of anti-frizz products containing oils and hydrolyzed proteins.
• Shampoos should have relatively low to medium surfactant content to cleanse without stripping essential natural oils. Conditioners should have relatively high fat content.
• Styling products may be oil or wax based.
• This hair type benefits from regular leave-in treatment with an oil base with blend of volatile and non-volatile lipids.

4c Crimped (wiry) 

• Heavily crimped with Z-shaped but poorly defined pattern.
• Can be treated with oils to maintain the “Z” and reduce frizz.
• Very dry, very prone to damage. This hair type needs regular treatment with oils and products containing protein.
• Shampoos should have a relatively low to medium surfactant content to cleanse without stripping the essential natural oils.
• Conditioners should have a relatively high lipid content.
• Styling products can be made with an oil or wax base.
• This hair type benefits from regular leave-in treatments with an oil base, containing a blend of volatile and non-volatile lipids that are left in for a long time to reach all the hairs.

 

 

We like to work with these active ingredients to care for frizzy hair:

Name	Company Name	INCI Name	Remarks
VARISOFT EQ 100	Evonik – Personal Care	Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate
Citropol DE-4	P2 Science, Inc.	Bis-Polycitronellyl Succinate
Hydromoist Blackcurrant	Symrise	Aqua, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Seed Butter , Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil , Behentrimonium Chloride , Laureth-2 , Pentylene Glycol , Niacinamide , Panthenol
Hydromoist Golden	Symrise	Aqua , Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Seed Butter , Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil , Behentrimonium Chloride , Laureth-2 , Pentylene Glycol , Niacinamide , Panthenol
SENSIOIL AMO	Tavares Chemical Ltda	Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Quattro	Assessa	Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract , Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate , Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil , Squalane , Phenoxyethanol , Ethylhexylglycerin
Phytenso	Lucas Meyer Cosmetics - by Clariant	Phospholipids , Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Schercodine S (Flaked) amido-amine	Lubrizol	Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Kerabase LC MB	Inolex	Cetearyl Alcohol , Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine , Aspartic Acid , EDTA
Merquat 2001 polymer	Lubrizol	Polyquaternium-47
Sufrasoft CB30	Natura Aeropack Corporation	Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Merquat 3940 polymer	Lubrizol	Polyquaternium-39
Schercemol CATC ester	Lubrizol	Cocoyl Adipic Acid/Trimethylolpropane Copolymer
Inula HC	SEPPIC	Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride , Inula Crithmoide Flower/Leaf Extract
Suframide HF850	Natura Aeropack Corporation	Cocamide MEA
Plantasens Abyssinian Oil	Clariant International Ltd.	Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
BETAINE GENENCARE OSMS BA	IFF's Health & Biosciences	Betaine
Plantasens Natural Emulsifier CP5	Clariant International Ltd.	Glyceryl Oleate , Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate , Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
Glyzer CB100	Natura Aeropack Corporation	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Seed Butter
Sensomer Tara polymer	Lubrizol	Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Nipaguard SCE	Clariant International Ltd.	Sorbitan Caprylate , Propanediol , Benzoic Acid
Glyzer CT200	Natura Aeropack Corporation	Caprylic/Capric/Lauric Triglyceride
Merquat 3330PR polymer	Lubrizol	Polyquaternium-39
Schercemol SHS ester	Lubrizol	Isostearyl Hydroxystearate
Schercemol 318 ester	Lubrizol	Isopropyl Isostearate
Glysoft RG	Natura Aeropack Corporation	Glycerin
Blue Seakale HC	SEPPIC	Aqua , Butylene Glycol , Crambe Maritima Leaf Extract
Schercemol DISM ester	Lubrizol	Diisostearyl Malate
AlgaPūr High Stability High Oleic algae oil	Lubrizol	Triolein
EMOGREEN L15	SEPPIC	C15-19 Alkane
AQUAXYL	SEPPIC	Xylitylglucoside , Anhydroxylitol , Xylitol
Glucate DO emulsifier	Lubrizol	Methyl Glucose Dioleate
SOLAGUM TARA	SEPPIC	Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum
ORAMIX L 30	SEPPIC	Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
SEPITONIC M3.0	SEPPIC	Magnesium Aspartate , Zinc Gluconate , Copper Gluconate
Sea Mayweed SC	SEPPIC	Aqua , Tripleurospermum Maritimum Extract
SOLAGUM AX	SEPPIC	Acacia Senegal Gum , Xanthan Gum
MONTANOV 202	SEPPIC	Arachidyl Alcohol , Behenyl Alcohol , Arachidyl Glucoside

 

 

Conclusion

You now have some tips on how to combine these different product types. Remember that curly hair is as diverse as it looks. The formulations must be specifically tailored to the type of curl you want to care for and tame for the best results. This will give you the healthiest curls and the most satisfied customers.

Feel free to ask us to develop innovative products for curly hair for your brand.

 

 

Literature:

Cossma – Issue 10 – 2024 Smooth and bouncy: All about curly hair

The what, why and how of curly hair: a review.

Cloete E, Khumalo NP, Ngoepe MN.Proc Math Phys Eng Sci. 2019 Nov;475(2231):20190516. doi: 10.1098/rspa.2019.0516. Epub 2019 Nov 20.

Understanding Curly Hair Mechanics: Fiber Strength.

Cloete E, Khumalo NP, Ngoepe MN.J Invest Dermatol. 2020 Jan;140(1):113-120. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2019.06.141. Epub 2019 Jul 19.

Traction Alopecia: Clinical and Cultural Patterns.

Sharquie KE, Schwartz RA, Aljanabi WK, Janniger CK.Indian J Dermatol. 2021 Jul-Aug;66(4):445. doi: 10.4103/ijd.IJD_648_20.

Friction Dynamics of Straight, Curly, and Wavy Hair.

Konno S, Asanuma K, Nonomura Y.J Oleo Sci. 2024;73(5):801-811. doi: 10.5650/jos.ess23245.