Dermosoft GPT MB

Dermosoft® GPT MB – Natural intelligence for modern cosmetic products

At a time when consumers are increasingly looking for natural ingredients and microbiome-friendly formulations, dermosoft® GPT MB is sending a strong signal about the future of skin care. Developed by Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH, this innovative active ingredient combines high efficacy, versatility, and sustainable properties. In this article, we highlight the strengths and weaknesses of dermosoft® GPT MB, present its physicochemical characteristics, analyze study results, and outline application ideas for cosmetic products.

 

 

What is dermosoft® GPT MB?

dermosoft® GPT MB is a multifunctional, natural active ingredient based on glyceryl sesquipelargonate. It serves as a cosmetic wetting agent enhancer with additional antimicrobial properties and can be used in a variety of ways—in emulsions as well as in aqueous and surfactant-based systems.

The aim is to solve formulation and microbiological challenges without compromising skin compatibility or environmental friendliness. The active ingredient is completely natural, 100% biodegradable, vegan, and free from animal ingredients.

 

 

Physicochemical characteristics of dermosoft® GPT MB

INCI: Glyceryl Sesquipelargonate

Appearance: Clear, slightly yellowish liquid to paste

Odor: Characteristic, pleasant

Natural origin: 100% (Natural Origin Index = 1.0, ISO 16128)

Biodegradability: Complete, readily biodegradable

pH range: 4.0–7.0

Solubility: Highly soluble in ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dermofeel® TEC eco

Water solubility: Low, therefore solubilization required

Processing temperature: Up to max. 80 °C, can be processed cold

 

 

Antimicrobial efficacy & recommended use concentration

dermosoft® GPT MB exhibits a broad antimicrobial spectrum against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and yeasts. An additional combination is required against molds.

Recommended concentrations:

• General applications (emulsions, aqueous systems, surfactant systems): 0.3–1.0%
• Deodorant cream: 0.3–0.6%
• Baby products (except diaper area): 0.2–0.4%
• Oral care: 0.1–0.3%

For complete microbial control, combination with organic acids or aromatic alcohols is recommended.

 

 

Study results on microbiome friendliness

A key strength of dermosoft® GPT MB is its confirmed skin friendliness. In an in vivo study with Asian skin, microbial diversity was examined using qPCR measurements.

Results:

• dermosoft® GPT MB reduced the total bacterial count only slightly compared to the control group.
• In contrast to phenoxyethanol, which significantly reduced microbial life, microbiological diversity was maintained.
• Conclusion: dermosoft® GPT MB respects the natural skin microbiome.

This makes the active ingredient particularly attractive for sensitive skin, baby, and intimate care products.

 

 

Co-emulsifying effect

Another advantage of dermosoft® GPT MB is its co-emulsifying effect, which leads to faster and more stable emulsion formation. Even with an addition of only 1%, tests showed a significantly faster O/W emulsion at 80 °C within 30 seconds. The resulting emulsion was whiter and less translucent compared to the control group—an indicator of finer droplet size and better emulsion stability.

 

 

Advantages of dermosoft® GPT MB

• 100% natural origin—ideal for clean beauty concepts.
• Broad antimicrobial spectrum without classic preservatives.
• Microbiome-friendly, proven by in vivo studies.
• Versatile: emulsions, surfactant formulations, hydroalcoholic solutions.
• Biodegradable and environmentally friendly.
• Can be processed at low temperatures, which saves energy.
• Co-emulsifying and odor-masking properties.

 

 

Disadvantages and challenges

• Low water solubility—solubilizers are required for transparent aqueous systems.
• Tendency to crystallize at room temperature—product must be heated to 40–50 °C before use.
• Not effective against mold on its own – must be combined with fungicidal additives.
• Emulsion viscosity may be affected depending on the emulsifier system – adjustment required.

 

 

Ideas for cosmetic product concepts

Mild micellar cleansing water

Ideal for sensitive skin, formulated with dermasoft® GPT MB + Verstatil® BL for gentle but effective cleansing without irritation.

Gentle deodorant cream with long-lasting protection

Combination of dermasoft® GPT MB with Heptyl MB: gentle on underarm skin, protects against unpleasant odors.

Antibacterial baby lotion

Perfectly dosed with 0.3% dermasoft® GPT MB: protects sensitive baby skin without disturbing the microbiome.

Hydrating day cream with pigment boost

Co-emulsifier effect improves texture, even distribution of color pigments through optimized wetting.

After-sun care gel

Antimicrobial, soothing, and stable—ideal after sunbathing.

 

 

Conclusion

dermosoft® GPT MB is much more than just a preservative booster—it is an intelligent, natural active ingredient that meets the requirements of modern skin care products: microbiome-friendly, environmentally compatible, versatile, and efficient. With a wide range of applications – from emulsions and micellar water to deodorant creams – it offers formulators the flexibility they need for innovative product concepts.

Those who work with this active ingredient are not only choosing effectiveness, but also responsibility towards the skin, people, and the environment.

 

Would you like to use dermosoft® GPT MB in your products?

Cosmacon GmbH is your development partner when it comes to tailor-made, nature-based cosmetic solutions. With years of experience, access to the latest active ingredients, and in-depth formulation expertise, Cosmacon develops innovative products that differentiate your brand.

Contact us and start your next successful formulation with dermosoft® GPT MB.

 

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