Anti-Ageing
Anti-Ageing
We would all like to beat the biological ageing process with the aim of appearing young, energetic and attractive for as long as possible. The “in theme” of our time is anti-ageing. Anti-ageing products slow down the natural ageing process and give us a vital and lively appearance. The human skin starts to age from 25 years old. Sooner or later the first wrinkles, furrows and pitting start to appear; not something that most of us look forward to. Anti-ageing cosmetics are becoming more and more popular. Today we are aware of several active ingredients that can slow down the skin´s ageing process and reduce wrinkles. These products also minimise the damaging effects of UV-rays and free radicals which can cause cells to die prematurely. At Cosmacon we are experts in the field of anti-ageing cosmetics and their formulation and in this article we share some of that experience with you.
Below we have listed the most well-known anti-ageing ingredients:
Coenzyme Q10
Coenzyme Q10 has been popular for some time. Its anti-ageing effect works using two principles: Firstly it cranks up the energy metabolism in the skin cells making them more resistant and longer-living. Secondly Coenzyme Q10 can also effectively reduce the effect of free radicals, preventing oxidative stress in our cells.
Hyaluronic Acid
When hyaluronic acid is integrated into cosmetic products and applied to the skin, it builds a breathable film that increases skin moisture retention and balances dehydration. Low-molecular hyaluronic acid provides its anti-ageing effect in the deeper skin layers. The result is skin that appears smoother and firmer, the skin surface becomes more even and irregularities disappear.
Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)
Synthetically produced Vitamin C plays a large role in anti-ageing. It increases collagen production in the skin making it appear significantly younger and fresher. In addition Vitamin C is a valuable in capturing free radicals effectively blocking attacks on the skin through too much sun or environmental poisons.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
Vitamin E has a proven anti-ageing effect when integrated into a cosmetic formulation. Vitamin E protects the skin from the free radicals which could cause early signs of ageing. It also helps the skin to retain moisture preventing wrinkles and lines caused by dehydration. Vitamin E can also have a mild anti-inflammatory function.
Beta Carotene
Beta carotene is a carotenoid and a precursor of Vitamin A also known as Provitamin A. Beta carotene binds free radicals and is added to Vitamin A creams as a stabiliser. The disadvantage is that it turns creams a strong yellow colour and can also stain clothing. Beta Carotene does however have useful anti-ageing properties. It affords some UV protection and recent research has shown that it can also promote a denser and thicker skin with an improved structure when applied to the surface.
Retinol (Vitamin A1)
Retinol, usually called Vitamin A in a cosmetic formulation, is the secret weapon in the anti-ageing armoury. Retinol can stimulate cell renewal and reduce the depth of wrinkles. The real anti-ageing benefit is that, unlike many other ingredients, retinol can operate in the deeper layers of the skin. This means the skin`s structure is improved from the inside and the result is a firmer and smoother appearance.
Salicylic Acid
Anti-ageing products with salicylic acid can be formulated with little or no preservatives as salicylic acid is a powerful anti-bacterial agent. These products soften the skin by gently and thoroughly removing dead skin cells. Salicylic acid can be sourced as a natural ingredient for example from willow trees, but is most usually used in its synthetic form.
Biotin (Vitamin H)
Biotin is also known as Vitamin H, where H signifies Hair. Biotin´s anti-aging mechanism is to support new cell production in the skin, hair and nails. Biotin can be employed in the form of D-biotin or as biotin microcapsules.
Alpha Lipoic Acid
Alpha lipoic acid is also a very well respected anti-ageing ingredient. It works by protecting against skin ageing and wrinkles as well as reducing the appearance of wrinkles and ageing lines that are already there. Targeted and long-term use can also minimise acne scars so that they are hardly visible.
Allantoin (5-Ureidohydantoin)
Historically allantoin was used to aid wound healing and against bone fractures. Nowadays we understand its indispensable anti-ageing properties which work through the stimulation of cell division. Allantoin works keratoplastically on the surface layer of skin meaning the skin becomes softer, smoother and suppler. This ingredient is also useful in the management of several forms of eczema.
Allantoin is found widely in caffeine containing plants e.g. Coffea arabica, Theobroma cacao und Camillia sinsenis.
Urea
Urea is a carbamide that is employed against dehydration in anti-aging products. Urea has the advantage of no side-effects. Urea improves the skin´s water-retention and thus improves its moisture saturation. Although urea occurs naturally in plant and animal tissue, this anti-ageing ingredient is produced synthetically for cosmetic use for reasons of purity.
The action of allantoin is linked to that of urea as urea is a precursor of allantoin.
Peptides
Peptides have a similar role in anti-ageing to retinol and are considered to be very effective. The main benefit of peptides is that they are very well tolerated and thus particularly suitable for people with sensitive skin.
Anti-ageing at each life stage – it´s never too early to start!
Between the ages of 20 and 30 the skin´s own moisture retention barrier becomes more porous. At the same time the skin starts to produce fewer oils causing a tendency for dryer skin. Anti-ageing treatments should already be applied at this point concentrating on high-quality cleansing products and light hydrating creams with UV protection.
In the next 10 years the collagen production slows down and hormonal changes cause impurities and blemishes. This is the phase where following a good anti-ageing regime is critical. As well as high-quality cleansing and UV protection, products at this stage include firming and moisturising masks, peelings and lifting serums.
Between 40 and 50 rings around the eyes, bags under the eyes, wrinkles and “tired eye lids” make an appearance. Nourishing creams designed for the eye area are now a „must“, as are age-appropriate anti-ageing creams and other products that promote skin regeneration and moisture retention.
Mature skin between 60 and 70 years old needs a lot of care as the skin cells are much less active and the skin´s internal structure has lost strength and resistance. In addition the cells receive less oxygen and nutrients. A good anti-ageing routine with high-quality products can balance out this degeneration. From the age of 70 highly effective cosmetics should be used to minimise wrinkles. Most effective are products combining several anti-ageing ingredients and that have been specifically designed for very mature skin.
It is very important for men to use anti-ageing products designed especially for masculine skin as their skin has very different needs to a woman’s skin.
One of the keys to keeping youthfully looking skin is the regular use of UV filters in a daily skin care routine, at least SPF 20. On holiday and in the summer or whenever there is a high UV level e.g. when skiing, even stronger protection in the range SPF 30-50 should be used. The rule is that the higher the protection the more valuable the anti-ageing effect. The idea that we should start with a high protection and reduce it as the „skin gets used to the sun“is completely wrong and dated. A high SPF protection from youth onwards is the best anti-ageing strategy – an investment for the future. After sun-bathing or other exposure to UV rays, it is important to cleanse thoroughly to remove all anti-sun products and to use a soothing regenerating after-sun product.
Anti-ageing is not just a fashion or a trend. The products are available for each life stage to protect and nourish the skin and to retain a youthful appearance even in maturity. Modern research means that the effectiveness of anti-ageing ingredients is always improving and that new substances and new products are constantly appearing on the market. Call us for more information on producing or improving your own anti-ageing range.