Active ingredient quality
The fundamental factor in assessing the active ingredient quality is its safety for human health, and this is regulated by the European Cosmetics Regulation.
Cosmetic active ingredients must fulfil many requirements, a number of substances may not be used or may only be used in certain concentrations, and only effects that have been proven may be advertised.
However, consumers are also interested in other aspects. How are the ingredients obtained, are they natural, synthetic, biotechnological, vegan, what are their advantages and disadvantages, how environmentally friendly are they? In short, how can we evaluate them?
Natural vs. synthetic active ingredient quality
Many consumers prefer natural ingredients. Nature has a good image, while synthetic is often associated with harmful or critical substances such as parabens or phthalates, sulfates, silicones.
In fact, natural substances, such as vegetable oils, are often better ‘understood’ and assimilated by the skin. On the other hand, peptides of synthetic origin are beneficial for sensitive skin. Natural vitamin C is unstable and can be better utilised by the skin in the form of derivatives.
The quality of active ingredients obtained from natural substances depends on climate fluctuations, whereas synthetic production is consistent. Furthermore, natural substances may be contaminated with environmental pollutants and pesticides. If a natural substance is used intensively, there is a risk of exploitation or monocultures in order to obtain enough of the plants used, but these then become more susceptible to pests. Fertilizers and pesticides are used here, which reduce the active ingredient quality. The fact that a rare plant is used sounds good and casts a positive light on the active ingredient quality. The question is what happens when demand increases?
A number of manufacturers pay attention to the controlled origin of their ingredients and promote biodiversity by using a rare, cosmetically useful plant to draw attention to its habitat, which is worthy of protection, or by cooperating with the indigenous population in the rainforest under fair conditions and creating other sources of income than deforestation by using certain plants.
Upcycling: resource-saving active ingredient quality
If upcycling is emphasised as a characteristic of the active ingredient quality, it can, for example, come from the seeds or shells that accumulate as waste in the food industry during juice production. These still have the full content of antioxidants, polyphenols, oils and thus cosmetic benefits as herbal ingredients.
Green niacinamide from sugar cane molasses, a by-product that is considered waste in the sugar industry, is another example.
Natural or vegan?
Natural active ingredients can be of plant or animal origin. Labelling as organic, confirmed by an organic seal, confirms that certain rules have been followed.
Natural ingredients of animal origin, which also includes honey, milk and eggs, are avoided by more and more people for ethical and aesthetic reasons. Natural ingredients of purely plant origin are vegan. Since synthetic active ingredients are free from animal substances, they could also be described as vegan.
What is plant-based collagen?
So-called plant collagen is based on plant-based active ingredients that support collagen formation. A well-known example is vitamin C.
Hydrolysed soy proteins and amino acids from rice or complexes from quinoa, soybeans and ginseng primarily have a strengthening and regenerative effect on collagen by improving the skin’s moisture-binding capacity. Plant-based hyaluronic acid comes from the Chinese tremella (Tremella fuciformis) or Indian senna (Senna alexandrina).
In addition to plant-based alternatives, biotechnology is also playing an increasingly important role.
On biotechnology and stem cells
No one wants hyaluronic acid produced from cockscombs anymore. Hyaluronic acid is produced from yeast proteins using biotechnological bacterial fermentation, which eliminates the risk of microbial contamination associated with production from slaughterhouse waste.
Plant stem cells are also of great interest and benefit for cosmetics. They have the full potential for tissue formation and self-regeneration. They contain similar epigenetic factors as the stem cells of human skin. Thanks to advanced technologies, they can be cultivated in the laboratory and used more and more efficiently by cosmetics to support the skin cells in their functions.
In this context, the information that the product is free of genetically modified organisms (GMO) helps many people to assess product quality.
Allergy potential and concentration
Some herbal ingredients may have an allergenic effect, such as Chamomilla recutita or calendula, as well as a number of natural essential oils and their components.
This also applies to many synthetic fragrances and some preservatives.
methylisothiazolines (MI), methylchloroisothiazolinones (MCI) can replace parabens, but can also have an allergenic effect.
On the other hand there are a number of preservatives which are non-allergenic below a certain concentration level as for instance benzoic acid, ethyl paraben, methyl paraben, sorbic acid.
Also the active agents which have proved successful in the past may cause damage in inappropriate concentrations and follow the well-known sentence: the dose makes the poison. Retinol is just one example here, as is urea. Urea, which has been produced synthetically for a long time, is a component of the NMF in the skin and is recommended as a moisturising active ingredient. However, in unsuitably high concentrations, it can dry out the skin, remove the horny layer and dissolve it.
In the case of sunscreens, there is debate about whether soluble organic filters (chemical) or filter pigments (physical) are used, whether and how deeply the chemical filters or the nanopigments penetrate into the skin, whether carcinogenic or hormone-like effects are possible, and whether the water is damaged. That is why the note ‘without octocrylene’ can help in assessing the active ingredient quality, as can seals that indicate that the product is harmless to coral reefs.
Certified active ingredient quality
Products with a seal must meet the requirements of the respective certification. However, the requirements of the seals vary. Nevertheless, they provide a guide for evaluating the active ingredient quality.
Critical view
Cosmetic products and consequently the active ingredients they contain are only allowed on the market in Europe under strict conditions. However, increasingly critical consumers want to know more in order to be able to assess the active ingredient quality. Certificates help with orientation, but often the path to certification is unnecessarily bureaucratic, lengthy and expensive. This is one reason why Cosmacon offers its own certificates, namely:
animal welfare, microplastic-free, vegan, V-filter according to Hawaiian reef law, dermatological skin compatibility (normal and sensitive skin), natural cosmetics certification according to ISO 16128, clean beauty.
We not only help you select the active ingredients, where their quality is our priority, but also formulate the appropriate statements about your products. We are always at your disposal.
Please also read our blog:
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Literature
EC Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223/2009
www.eui-lex.europa.eu/lefal-content/DE/TXT/?uri=32023R1545
Lautenschläger (2023) From natural to vegan (Medical by Beauty Forum)
Roviello et al. (2021) Usage of synthetic peptides in cosmetics for sensitive skin
Jub Hui Sze et al. (2016) Biotechnological production of hyaluronic acid: a brief review