Mate leaf extract – an energy booster for skin and hair
Introduction
Mate tea has been considered a natural “pick-me-up drink” in South America for centuries. Now mate leaf extract is also conquering the cosmetics industry: as an upcycled active ingredient, it provides caffeine, polyphenols and flavonoids in record-breaking concentrations and literally gives the skin more oxygen and energy. Modern formulations such as YERBALUXE®-PEARL show how mate leaf extract will become the heart of powerful concepts for healthy ageing and hair care in 2025.
Origin & Botany
The raw material for mate leaf extract is the evergreen leaves of the yerba mate tree (Ilex paraguariensis). The tree, which grows up to 15 metres high, thrives in the subtropical border region of Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina, preferring humus-rich, slightly acidic soils and temperatures between 20 and 30 °C. Harvesting takes place all year round, with the main season being the Brazilian winter half-year. A tree can live for over 50 years and yield up to 400 kg of leaf mass per season.
Production
For cosmetic quality, mate tea fanning – a by-product of beverage production – is gently extracted with water and adjusted to a dry matter content of 3–6%. This produces a brown-transparent liquid without additional preservatives. This process saves CO₂, avoids waste and meets ISO 22716 GMP standards.
Why mate leaf extract?
| Advantage | Quick |
| Energy boost | Increases transcutaneous oxygen partial pressure by 12% after 30 minutes and 40.5% after 28 days – visibly fresher skin. |
| Anti-redness | Reduces facial redness by 10% within 30 minutes and soothes stressed skin. |
| Microcirculation | Caffeine stimulates the capillaries, rutin dilates the blood vessels – the perfect combination for a healthy glow. |
| Antioxidant protection | Up to 20 g of polyphenols/L protect mitochondria from ROS stress. |
| Barrier strengthening | Increases ceramide synthesis, reduces TEWL – ideal for healthy ageing care. |
Mate leaf extract thus impressively demonstrates how a traditional luxury food can be transformed into a modern skincare innovation.
Texture ideas
- O₂ shot serum
A water-based microgel (1% mate leaf extract) for instant glow.
- Energy Cream Gel
Light W/O gel emulsion with 2% mate leaf extract, squalane and quinoa peptides.
- “Breath of Hair” Leave-On Mist
0.5% mate leaf extract plus panthenol give lifeless hair a boost.
- Hydra Marshmallow Mask
Bouncy gel based on xanthan/cellulose with 1.5% mate leaf extract reduces redness overnight.
Each formulation benefits from the characteristic fresh scent and light brown colour of mate leaf extract – a natural marketing advantage.
Other everyday applications:
- Food: Mate shots as a caffeine alternative.
- Food supplements: powdered mate leaf extract in energy capsules.
- Textiles: antioxidant finishes for functional shirts.
Mate leaf extract accompanies consumers from breakfast to their evening ritual.
Mate leaf extract profile
| Parameters | Value |
| INCI | Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract |
| Alternative names | Yerba mate extract, YERBALUXE® |
| Appear | Brown-transparent liquid |
| Physical | liquid |
| pH (20 °C) | 4.5 – 5.5 |
| Density (20 °C) | 1.000 – 1.030 g/ml |
| Refractive index | 1.340 – 1.390 |
| Polyphenols | 7 – 20 g/L |
| Main active ingredients | Caffeine 0.5–2 g/L; rutin 0.3–1 g/L; caffeoylquinic acids 5–20 g/L |
| Solubility | Water |
| Shelf life | 24 months (below 25 °C, protected from light) |
Related active ingredients
| Active ingredient | Appearance / formula | Melting/boiling point | Short-term effectiveness |
| Caffeine (in mate leaf extract) | White powder, C₈H₁₀N₄O₂ | 238 °C | stimulates microcirculation, decongestant |
| Rutin (in mate leaf extract) | yellow-green powder, C₂₇H₃₀O₁₆ | ≈ 190 °C* | Protects capillary walls, powerful antioxidant |
| Caffeoylquinic acid | beige powder, C₁₆H₁₈O₉ | ≈ 210 °C* | Inhibits collagen degradation, boosts cell energy |
| Pentylene glycol | Clear liquid, C₅H₁₂O₂ | − | Moisturiser & gentle preservative |
*Decomposes before melting.
Advantages and disadvantages
| Advantage | Disadvantage |
| 100% natural origin, vegan | Characteristic natural colouring may slightly darken light-coloured emulsions |
| Upcycled raw material, low carbon footprint | Light polyphenol sediment – shake briefly |
| No preservatives necessary (self-stabilising) | Higher price than standard plant extracts |
| Broad spectrum of activity (energy, barrier protection, antioxidant) | Caffeine-sensitive target groups require warning |
Evidence from in vivo studies on mate leaf extract
The efficacy of mate leaf extract has been proven in several placebo-controlled studies. In a laser Doppler flowmetry measurement (Periflux LDPM PF5000), a face cream containing 0.5% mate leaf extract immediately improved transcutaneous oxygen partial pressure by 12% and by 40.5% after 28 days of daily use. At the same time, microcirculation increased by 30% and 59%, respectively.
A half-face VISIA CR test showed a 10% reduction in facial redness and an 11.6% increase in skin tone evenness after just one application of an emulsion containing 1% mate leaf extract. After 24 hours, the improvement was still 7.8% and 8.1% respectively.
In a 28-day study, the same 1% formulation reduced transepidermal water loss by 13.3% (TEWL measurement), increased skin firmness by 12.6% and elasticity by 20.4% (cutometry). In addition, the number of wrinkles in the crow’s feet area decreased by 37% and superficial roughness by 8% (PRIMOS strip projection).
These consistent results underscore that mate leaf extract acts as a highly effective multitasker even at a concentration of 0.5% and further enhances its benefits with increasing dosage (up to 1%).
Summary
Mate leaf extract combines traditional vitality with high-tech sustainability, making it perfect for clean beauty serums, active face creams and smart hair rinse-offs. Its ability to simultaneously increase oxygen supply, microcirculation and ceramide production makes mate leaf extract a true all-rounder.
We develop tailor-made formulations that allow the extract to unfold its full effect. Together, we incorporate it into innovative products that differentiate your brand and delight consumers.
Mate leaf extract is more than just a trend – it is the energy upgrade for your cosmetic products.
If we have piqued your interest, please feel free to contact us. We will be happy to advise you.
Literature:
https://www.rahn-group.com/de/cosmetics/produkte/1842/
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