Totarol

Totarol

Totarol is an active ingredient extracted from the New Zealand totara tree, which contains a natural substance that protects it from bacteria and weathering caused by environmental factors, prevents it from rotting and allows it to continue to exist for thousands of years, even if it has fallen over. The secret is an aromatic diterpenoid with the chemical formula C20H30O (i[totara-8,11,13-trien-13-ol]).

The plant extract is one of a new generation of antioxidant and antibacterial agents that utilise the forces of nature.

Native to New Zealand

The totara is a member of the yew family (Podocarpus). It existed over 100 million years ago, before New Zealand was a landmass. The ancestors of the totara tree stood here at the time of the supercontinent Gondwana. Eighty million years ago, when New Zealand began to form, today’s totara also emerged. Since then, the conifer, which is characterised by its longevity and can reach a height of up to 25 metres, has been growing exclusively in Aotearoa, as the original inhabitants of New Zealand call it.

The Maori recognised the power and longevity of the majestic tree. They used its wood to build canoes, for houses, carvings and for medical purposes.

The later settlers also used the robust wood to build houses, fences and railways, some of which are still intact today.

In the 1990s, scientists in New Zealand and around the world began researching the totara tree. They were fascinated by the fact that its wood is resistant to environmental influences, rotting and putrefaction and shows no damage even after several hundred years. Finally, they discovered the magical substance in the heartwood: totarol.

Properties

Bioactive totarol™ is a natural extract from the heartwood of the totara tree.

It has selective antibacterial properties and is effective against a number of bacteria that are resistant to many antibiotics or penicillin.

It protects against pathogenic bacteria that cause infections of the skin, gums, teeth and acne, such as Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus mutans, Streptococcus pneumoniae, Streptococcus pyogenes , Enterococcus faecalis, Salmonella menston, Eschericia coli, Enterobacter aerogenes, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacillus subtilis, Brevibacterium ammoniagenes and Cutibacterium acnes.

Bioactive totarol™ is effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria.

It breaks down the bacterial cell, creating an environment in which bacteria cannot survive, while beneficial microorganisms are not harmed.

Recent studies

Totarol™ is so effective that even small amounts can achieve results.

Its antioxidant properties are proven to be 7 times higher than those of vitamin E and 4 times higher than enzogenol.

Totarol™ has many proven effects and is the subject of ongoing research.

Some examples:

In tests, Totarol™ inhibited the growth of Staphylococcus aureus (bacteria that can cause skin redness, blisters and boils). At a concentration of 5% to 0.005%, >97% of the bacteria were killed.

Tests have confirmed the efficacy and tolerability of regular use of an alcohol-based Totarol™ product and a moisturiser with Totarol™ as an anti-acne active ingredient when applied externally.

Tests show that Totarol™ can inhibit melanin formation and appears to block the maturation of melanosomes, which suggests its suitability for whitening products.

Another study confirmed an antioxidant and light protective effect against UV radiation. The active ingredient increases cell proliferation and thus supports healing and cell renewal and can improve the skin’s radiance and glow.

A study confirmed that Totarol™ has strong antioxidant effects in a lipid membrane system. The active ingredient is integrated into the lipid phase. It also has antioxidant-preserving properties in emulsion-based systems.

Possible uses

This versatile active ingredient has been used successfully since the early 2000s. It is available in powder and liquid form and is suitable for:

  • Cosmetic formulations (skincare, makeup, anti-acne, anti-aging)
  • Body care
  • Oral care
  • Baby care
  • Hair care
  • Pharmaceuticals (wound care, infection protection)
  • Pet care (dog shampoo, skin, oral and wound care)

Basic formulations

Some examples:

ANTI-AGING/WRINKLE CREAM

With its anti-inflammatory, microbiome-balancing, antioxidant and anti-ageing properties, Totarol™ is ideal for combining with copper peptide. The signalling peptide can restructure tissue, stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin and control the growth rate of different cell types, so that both active ingredients complement each other synergistically.

ANTI-ACNE CREAM

Totarol™, in combination with a sebum-regulating active ingredient derived from soy and cinnamon bark extract with an astringent effect, can restore the balance of oily skin prone to acne and reduce blackheads and sebum.

ROSACEA BALM

This type of product uses the beneficial effect of Totarol™ on the microbiome and its anti-inflammatory and anti-redness properties, combining them with other suitable active ingredients such as calendula, pennywort, liquorice, horse chestnut and butcher’s broom. (see blog > skin redness)

Sustainable production

In the sustainable production of the organic and natural active ingredient from the New Zealand totara tree, care is taken to ensure that no living trees are damaged, only sections or fallen trees are used.

Totarol™ is extracted from the dead heartwood using a supercritical and patented extraction process with CO2, using modern methods and equipment.

Description: Totarol

Variant TOTAROL COSMETIC

INCI: Totarol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Polysorbate 60, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycerin

Extraction: sustainable, using supercritical CO2 extraction from the heartwood of the totara tree

Physical form: powder, liquid; almost flavourless and odourless

Effects: strengthens the microbiome, antibacterial, inhibits lipid peroxidation, radical scavenger, antioxidant; non-irritating to the skin, non-sensitising; preservative

Possible applications: ageing skin, for reducing and preventing wrinkles, blemished skin, acne, skin lightening, sensitive skin, couperose, rosacea; in lipid and emulsion systems

Application concentration: 0.1 – 3%

A true survivor from New Zealand

The totara tree, native to New Zealand, has been surviving for thousands of years and impresses with its robust wood and resistance to decay. The TotarolTM discovered in it has pronounced antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. This active ingredient can be used in many ways in cosmetics and is a good example of how the plant kingdom is constantly enriching our range of active substances and is far from being exhausted.

Cosmacon is looking forward to your enquiry about developing products with the active ingredient from Aotearoa.

 

Literature:

Webpage of Supplier

Bai. Y., (2002) ‘Antioxidant Capacity of Totarol’

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/np50088a008