New active ingredients score particularly well in that they use natural raw materials, are environmentally friendly and sustainable, come from upcycling processes, usually do not require preservation and, of course, optimise the efficiency, skin feel and application properties of cosmetic products.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The active ingredients Probiolift\u00ae and Postbiolift\u00ae (both BASF trademarks) are based on the knowledge that the bacterium Lactobacillus crispatus is no longer detectable in the microbiome of older skin, especially in the area of wrinkles, and is therefore essential for the appearance of younger skin.<\/p>\n
The active ingredient Probiolift\u00ae contains a living bacterium that is part of the skin’s natural microflora and can supplement it. This is special because probiotics used in cosmetics do not normally contain living cells.
\nFor the production, Lactobacillus crispatus was isolated from the skin of a test person, then cultivated and put into a dormant state by freeze-drying. After reactivation with water, it unfolds its probiotic effects on human skin.
\nProbiolift\u00ae replenishes the skin with its own youth bacteria and thus represents a new generation of anti-ageing active ingredients.
\nIt reduces the contractions of muscle cells and can thus smooth and prevent wrinkles.
\nAlthough forehead wrinkles are difficult to smooth, a visible improvement was achieved. In addition, an increase in skin density was observed in vivo.
\nIn vitro, Probiolift\u00ae was shown to increase the formation of collagen I and V and to have an antioxidant effect.<\/p>\n
Postbiolift\u00ae comes from the same biofermentation process and counteracts the appearance of crow’s feet and pigmentation spots.
\nFor its production, Lactobacillus crispatus is cultivated in a liquid nutrient medium. The postbiotic, which is produced when the living cells of the bacterium are extracted, is spray-dried and provides the active ingredient Postbiolift\u00ae.<\/p>\n
In an application study, it was proven that when used in a cream, it can reduce wrinkles, increase skin elasticity and reduce pigmented skin areas. Crow’s feet were visibly reduced.<\/p>\n
In vitro, the formation of elastin and other molecules important for skin elasticity was stimulated and the reduction of tyrosinase activity in cells was confirmed.<\/p>\n
PROBIOLIFT\u00ae<\/strong> POSTBIOLIFT\u00ae<\/strong> <\/p>\n An extract from chestnut leaves is the basis of the active ingredient Castaline\u00ae (trademark of BASF). The chestnut leaves come from organic cultivation in France, where they are picked by hand. As they are a by-product of tree care, they are a real upcycling product. CASTALINE\u00ae<\/strong> <\/p>\n Cobiostem Alerce uses an extract from the Patagonian Cypress tree. This tree, with a height of up to 55 metres and a lifespan of about 3500 years, has extremely positive properties that can be attributed to the antioxidant and protective effects of the cell components. Since the wood is also of high quality, its existence is endangered by the timber industry. The valuable effects of Cobiosa’s active ingredient have been proven in vitro. They include antioxidant effects, the increase of the formation of collagen and hyaluronic acid, the inhibition of collagen and hyaluronic acid degrading enzymes. In addition, Cobiostem Allerce can slow down the negative influence of blue light on cell proliferation. COBIOSTEM ALLERCE<\/strong> <\/p>\n To produce the antioxidant active Cobiuty (a Cobiosa product), the pulp of the buriti fruit, which is left over from oil production, is used in an upcycling process. COBIUTY<\/strong> <\/p>\n Telessence Telmeric\u2122 is both structurally and functionally a biomimetic of the spice turmeric (Curcuma longa). It calms the environmental stress response activated by the TLR2 pathway, attenuates the NF-kB response and thus the inflammatory process, which is also reduced by the action of miRNAs. In addition, it activates the NRF2 antioxidant response to stop the inflammatory loop that can lead to further cell damage and telomere shortening.<\/p>\n The efficacy tests, it has been shown to increase resistance to temperature changes and consequently reduce the skin’s tendency to redness. The active ingredient is part of LipoTrue’s Telessence concept, which targets three types of stress that accelerate biological skin ageing – environmental, physical stress, emotional stress.<\/p>\n TELESSENCE TELMERIC<\/strong> New active ingredients: Blueberries and rosemary leaves to combat physical stress. Tests confirmed TELESSENCE MITELION<\/strong> <\/p>\n Patchoul’upTM is an upcycled active ingredient from the production of patchouli oil. PATCHOUL’UPTM Linden flower buds provide the high molecular weight polysaccharides for the active ingredient Tilicine DS Bio, which is an alternative to synthetic polymers. It coats the hair with a protective film, makes it easier to comb and counteracts static electricity. Flavonoids strengthen the cross-links in the keratin structure and thus improve the hair quality. Sugar molecules, which are also components of NMF, moisturise the scalp and hair. TILICINE DS BIO<\/strong> <\/p>\n The 100% organic, multifunctional raw material convinces with its sensorially appealing, luxurious texture. Palmitic acid strengthens the skin barrier, while stearic acid retains moisture in the skin and improves the skin’s water content. Sugar cane wax is suitable as a gel or film former, thickener, viscosity regulator and can thus replace other waxes. It spreads better and is softer than beeswax or FT waxes. CIRENATTM Sugarcane Wax <\/p>\n Natural micronised waxes, such as carnauba and rice bran wax, can provide several benefits in sunscreens. They increase the SPF of organic and inorganic sunscreens, contribute to better product stability and shorter drying time, result in a lighter skin feel and more appealing aesthetics.<\/p>\n The micronised powders of carnauba wax and rice bran wax achieved significant SPF improvements over the control in in vivo tests in combination with both inorganic sunscreens (zinc oxide) and organic sunscreens.<\/p>\n MICROCARE 350<\/strong> NATURESOFT 860R<\/strong> <\/p>\n Oleamuls\u00ae Low (product of SOCRI) is a cold-processable and thus energy-saving emulsifier. It forms low-viscosity emulsions with a lamellar structure in which an oil content of approx. 15% can be stabilised and a high water content can be included. The result when applied is a light, fresh skin feeling.
\nINCI: Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus
\nAppearance: beige powder
\nPreservation: none
\nSolubility: dispersible in oil
\nRecommended concentration for use: 0.05%.
\nForm of application: anhydrous formulation<\/p>\n
\nINCI: maltodextrin, lactobacillus ferment
\nAppearance: white to beige powder
\nPreservation: none
\nSolubility: soluble in water
\nRecommended concentration for use: 1%
\nForm of application: e.g. in cream<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: dermocosmetic active ingredient from chestnut leaves<\/h3>\n
\nThe extract strengthens the skin’s protective barrier physically, immunologically and microbially. It reduces the colonisation of Staphylococcus aureus and decreases the release of inflammatory mediators.
\nCastaline\u00ae is therefore ideal for strengthening the skin’s protective barrier and regenerating severely damaged, atopic skin.
\nIn vivo efficacy has been demonstrated in subjects with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis. A cream with Castaline\u00ae reduced symptoms of atopic dermatitis, decreased transepidermal water loss and optimised the skin pH as well as the subjective well-being of the test persons.<\/p>\n
\nINCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Castanea Sativa Leaf Extract
\nAppearance: syrupy liquid
\nPreservation: none
\nSolubility: soluble in water
\nRecommended use concentration: 2%
\nConformities: COSMOS, NaTrue, NOI (ISO 16128) = 1<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: Stem cells from Patagonian cypress<\/h3>\n
\nAlready in traditional medicine, extracts of this cypress were used to treat wounds and dermatitis.<\/p>\n
\nTherefore, only fallen branches are used for the extraction of the stem extract.<\/p>\n
\nIn application studies, a cream with Cobiostem Allerce significantly reduced wrinkle depth and wrinkle area.<\/p>\n
\nINCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Fitzroya Cupressoides Callus Extract
\nAppearance: pale yellow liquid
\nPreservation: none
\nSolubility: water soluble
\nApplication concentration: 1- 2%
\nConformities: ISO 16128: NOI = 1, potentially COSMOS compliant<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: Antioxidants from upcycling of Buriti oil production<\/h3>\n
\nThe extract has efficient antioxidants such as carotenoids, tocopherol and several proteins. Thus, it is suitable to eliminate free radicals, whether from environmental pollution or UV radiation, and to protect against inflammatory processes and damage to the extracellular matrix.
\nIn vitro studies have shown that Cobiuty can selectively target retinol receptors. It activates those responsible for cell proliferation, differentiation and metabolism, but not those associated with inflammatory responses.
\nIn addition, there is evidence that the active ingredient inhibits the activity of elastin and hyaluronic acid degrading enzymes, reduces the activity of tyrosinase and can reduce inflammatory processes due to dust exposure.<\/p>\n
\nINCI: Propanediol, Aqua, Mauritia Flexuosa Pulp Powder
\nAppearance: amber liquid
\nPreservation: none
\nSolubility: water soluble
\nUse concentration: 2-5
\nConformities: ISO16128: NOI = 1, potentially COSMOS compliant<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: turmeric peptide against environmental stress.<\/h3>\n
\nIn addition, the scaling of the skin was reduced and its fine-pored appearance improved.
\nThe skin immediately appeared smoother and was less rough in the long term.<\/p>\n
\nManufacturer: LipoTrue
\nINCI: Water, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexapeptide-6.
\nConformities: Halal Vegan<\/p>\n
\nTelessence Mitelion\u2122 is also an active ingredient from LipoTrue’s anti-stress concept.
\nIt is extracted from blueberries and rosemary leaves. Telessence Mitelion\u2122 keeps the mitochondria fit to cope with phystress. It recharges the mitochondrial membrane potential and stimulates the renewal of mitochondria. It prevents oxidative damage in the mitochondria by strengthening the body’s antioxidants and reducing ROS production.<\/p>\n
\n+ 38% refreshed appearance
\n– 72% skin fatigue
\n+ 36% light reflective capacity
\n+ 59% glow<\/p>\n
\nManufacturer: LipoTrue
\nINCI: Glycerin, Water, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Vaccinum Myrtillus Fruit Extract.
\nConformities: Ecocert Greenlife approved raw material, COSMOS compliant, Halal, vegan.<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: Patchouli against dry dandruff<\/h3>\n
\nIn a shampoo, Patchoul’upTM (trademark of Givaudan) was able to increase the sebum production of dry scalp, reduce the amount of dry dandruff and normalise the scalp’s microflora.
\nIn a leave-in application study, the subjects confirmed that the itching had decreased and there were no more dry dandruff on the clothes.
\nThe well-being of the test subjects seemed significantly improved.<\/p>\n
\nINCI: Aqua, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf\/Stem Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol
\nAppearance: brown liquid
\nPreservation: none
\nSolubility: water soluble
\nApplication concentration: 0.5%
\nConformities: COSMOS compliant, ISO 16128: NOI = 1<\/p>\n<\/h3>\n
New active ingredients: natural alternative to synthetic polymers<\/h3>\n
\nClinical tests in which the active ingredient was applied three times a day at a concentration of 5% for 28 days confirmed a decrease in hair dryness and an increase in moisture content of up to 83%, as well as 60% more volume and a reduction in electrostatic charge of up to 70%.
\nMore fullness, the anti-fly effect and improved moisture were also noticed by the test subjects.
\nThe structural improvement of the hair could also be proven microscopically.<\/p>\n
\nManufacturer: Green Tech
\nINCI: Water, Glycerin, Tilia Tomentosa Bud Extract, Citric Acid
\nPreservation: Phenethyl Alcohol, Paraben-free
\nAppearance: liquid, yellow-amber coloured
\nApplication concentration: 1-5
\nSolubility: water soluble, partially alcohol soluble
\npH: 4 – 6
\nFields of application: Volumising shampoo, moisturising shampoo for dry hair, build-up shampoo for damaged hair, shower gel 2-in-1, styling gel with protective function
\nConformities: NaTrue, Ecocert<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: versatile sugar cane wax from upcycling process<\/h3>\n
\nIt is obtained as a by-product of sugar production from sugar cane juice and sugar cane bagasse.
\nIt contains long-chain fatty acids, such as palmitic, stearic and motanic acid, esters, aldehydes and ketones. In addition, aliphatic alcohols (octosanol), long-chain aliphatic fatty acids and terpenoids are found in smaller quantities.<\/p>\n
\nMontanic acid contributes to heat resistance of the wax and gives the hair a smooth surface.<\/p>\n
\nIt is suitable for face and body care products, sun care, lip care, hair care and decorative cosmetic products.<\/p>\n
\nManufacturer: Cirebelle
\nINCI: Saccharum Officinarum Cera
\nPreservation: none
\nConformities: Halal, vegan, cruelty free<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: natural fine powders increase performance of sun protection factors<\/h3>\n
\nManufacturer: Micro Powders Inc.
\nDescription: ultra fine carnauba wax powder
\nINCI: Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
\nAppearance: slightly yellowish, microfine powder
\nParticle shape\/size: irregularly shaped, 6-8 \u00b5m
\nDensity (g\/cc): 0.99
\nApplication concentration: 5%
\nSPF booster performance: +11% with organic UV filters
\n+ 27% + with inorganic UV filters<\/p>\n
\nManufacturer: Micro Powders Inc.
\nDescription; ultra-fine rice bran wax powder from upcycling process.
\nINCI: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
\nAppearance: white, microfine powder
\nParticle shape\/size: irregularly shaped, 6-10 \u00b5m
\nDensity (g\/cc): 0.96
\nApplication concentration: 5%
\nSPF booster performance: +15% with organic UV filters
\n+ 33% + with inorganic UV filters<\/p>\nNew active ingredients: energy-saving O\/W emulsifier from renewable source<\/h3>\n
\nRenewable sources, mainly Italian olive oil, are used in its production.
\nOleamuls\u00ae Low is PEG-, palm oil-, phosphate-free and vegan and meets the requirements for use in natural cosmetics.<\/p>\n